Wandering Family

Our Life in "KW" - The German "Kalendarwochen" Concept - Part 2

2011-12-31T22:00:00.019+01:00

While composing the last entry, I realized that its length was making it difficult to digest in a single sitting. So for your reading enjoyment, our adventures for "Kalendarwochen" 49-52 will be listed in this posting. They're less about exploring the unknown and more about a multi-cultural family's attempt to establish holiday traditions.

And, in case you missed the last bit it began like this: "As I was considering how to make up for my recent absence from the blogosphere, the thought occured to me that I could introduce you to the german "Kalendarwochen", or "Calendar Weeks" concept. Otherwise known as "KW" (pronounced "Ka-Vae"), in this corner of the world they often organize their lives according to the weeks of the year, and what better way to cover all of this missed time?"

The IWG's Annual Cookie Exchange

To read about the month of November, click here. Or to see what we were up to in December, just read on...
Week 49: PAR-TAY!
Organized and attended our "English Without Border's" Christmas get-together at a quaint old restaurant in the historic district of Erlangen; had a blast at the International Women's Group's (or IWG's) annual Christmas Party at a nearby castle.

"Kinderweihnachtsmarkt"

Week 50: Cookie Exchange and Nuremberg Christindlesmarkt
Attended (and baked for) the IWG's annual Christmas Cookie Exchange in Herzogenaurach. Etched into my memory: The BBC's "Rocky Road Christmas" and hostess Petra's incredible homemade eggnog. Later that week I braved the mega-crowded Nuremberg Christmas Market with three little kids. How? Baby Emma was strapped into the Baby Bjorn, which freed up both of my hands for her 3- and 5-year-old brothers. :) Loved the "Kinderweihnachtsmarkt", or "Children's Christmas Market", and was impressed with the boys for helping me do some last minute Christmas shopping along Nuremberg's fabulous Karolinenstrasse (listed here as the city's top shopping district: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_leading_shopping_streets_and_districts_by_city)

Week 51: Countdown to Christmas!
When we're in Germany, we celebrate like this: Christmas Eve we always do dinner at my in-law's, and the kids love opening gifts brought by the "Christkind" (literally translated as"Christ Child"). Before going to bed the boys write a letter to Santa Claus (with my help) and prepare a plate with homemade cookies and some carrots for his reindeer. Then Santa's self-appointed elves set to work wrapping any remaining presents, followed by last minute decorating and answering letters to Santa's biggest fans. Christmas morning we're up early having some hot cocoa while opening presents and stockings. On the afternoon of the 25th we have friends or family over for a big, American-style Christmas day meal (this year our friend Claudia came by with her partner and children). Lastly, on the 26th, known here in Germany as the "Zweite Weihnachtstag" or "Second Christmas Day", we have my in-laws over to our place for a traditional German meal. The days leading up to Christmas are always stressful, but once it has begun, we all tend to enjoy the holiday! :)

Week 52: A small-town New Year's
This year we'll be celebrating New Year's by inviting over some friends, who also have three children, for fondu and fireworks. The only drawbacks: the absence of snow make it less magical than the New Year's past, and I'm always slightly freaked out by the crazy rocket-launching and fireman-grade fireworks that are set off by family, friends, and neighbors. Duck!

Here's to hoping that our 2012 will be equally full of incredible adventures, including those here at home, where baby Emma will be exploring her new world and learning how to eat, crawl, walk, and talk! Wishing you and your family a wonderful new year!
~The Krafts

Our Life in "KW" - The German "Kalendarwochen" Concept - Part 1

2011-12-31T13:04:00.025+01:00

As I was considering how to make up for my recent absence from the blogosphere, the thought occured to me that I could introduce you to the german "Kalendarwochen", or "Calendar Weeks" concept. Otherwise known as "KW" (pronounced "Ka-Vae"), in this corner of the world they often organize their lives according to the weeks of the year, and what better way to cover all of this missed time?

This week being the last of the year, makes it number 52, and since my last posting was on November 4th, or week 44, I have about 7 weeks of "Wandering Family" adventures to share with you. :) Let's get started!

Dinner at Donatella's

Week 45: Catching up with the International Women's Group
Once a month I organize an English Language group for the International Women's Group which we call "English Without Borders". This week we met at the Kalchreuther Bakery in Neunkirchen am Brand to speak english and catch up over a traditional German breakfast. It's also the week that my sister arrived from America, the week of my 34th birthday (which I celebrated with friends and family here at my home), and culminated in my sister and I being invited to a lovely Italian women's home for a tapas-style party with women from around the globe (Macedonia, Germany, Italy, the Phillipines, South Korea and the U.S.).

Opa's Childhood Home

Week 46: Exploring Tobi's roots
Tobi's father comes from Hetzles, a tiny town about 10 minutes's drive from us. If you like German villages filled with half-timber buildings, you'd love Hetzles, which is why it happens to be one of my favorite spots to take visitors. We headed out with my sister on a cold Autumn day in search of the childhood home of Tobi's father, and found it. Now a barn, it's a tiny half-timber building which Tobi's father's family rented prior to building their own home around the time of the second world war, and - though it's fallen into disrepair - I find it cute and somewhat intriguing. We also wandered down the village's main street, chatting with random locals about their leftover pumkin displays, a somewhat icky cow stall, apple and pear orchards, homemade schnapps, and the history of Hetzles.

To be continued... :)

Week 47: Franconian Treasures - a walk through UNESCO-Heritage Bamberg and coffee with friends in Nuremberg

Highlights of this week included wandering around the gorgeous UNESCO-Heritage city of Bamberg with my sister and baby Emma, and meeting a friend for coffee along the Pegnitz River in the pedestrian area in Nuremberg. While in Bamberg, we especially loved popping into tiny shops along cobblestone streets for Christmas presents and decorations! My favorite find: the tiny bookstore just near the bridge leading to the old city hall. Other high points: Enjoying a big Thanksgiving dinner here at home and celebrating the 11th anniversary of our wedding with a night out at the movies. Movie of choice: "Eine Ganz Heisse Nummer" - a popular German flick with several much loved actors about three women who begin a phone sex business (in a small town - HA!) to save their convenience store. It's great to be able to watch foreign films and fully understand them. Makes living abroad even better!

Week 48: Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Regensburg an der Pegnitz, and Passau (which is on the Danube, Inn, AND Ilz Rivers)

Before my sister headed back to America I was determined to show her around a bit. And I owed her one night at a castle, as a belated birthday present. Reservations were made at the "Hotel Schloß Ort" in Passau, and to get there we had to travel through Regensburg. As we piled into the car, it occured to me that I had already taken my sister to Regensburg last year. Rats. I wanted to introduce her to somehing new and incredible, and wondered what else I could show her in the area prior to arriving at our Passau hotel. Then I remembered Rothenburg ob der Tauber, and new it wasn't far from our home. I plugged it into our navigation system and we were off. Rothenburg is without a doubt one of Bavaria's most beautiful, well preserved Medieval cities. Which explains why it's also so dreadfully overrun with tourists. We wandered through the crooked cobblestone streets, had some delicious traditional German food in a leaning, half-timber-housed restaurant, pushed our way through the shockingly overcrowded, yet somewhat charming Christmas market, then headed back to the car, castle-bound. The navigation system revealed that the Passau trip had gone from two hours to three hours, which meant that Rothenburg was in the opposite direction. Oops! I had had a truly blonde moment. Once we finally arrived in Passau we had a great time, and some highlights were: staying in castle "Schloss Ort", visiting the Passau Christmas Market, overeating at a cute little Italian restaurant, gawking at the interior of the gorgeaous yet gaudy cathedral, warming up at a Vienna-style coffee house, walking along the picturesque riverfront, and taking in the view of the city from the hilltop fortress. We did end up stopping in Regensburg on the way home for lunch, an incredible Hungarian pastry, a walk along cobblestone streets, and a quick stroll across the old pedestrian bridge spanning the fast-flowing Pegnitz. What a trip, what a week! :)

To be continued... :)

A Family of Five in the Berchtesgadener Land

2011-11-04T13:44:00.003+01:00

Many months have passed since our last family vacation, thanks to a ruthless combination of my husband working feverishly to complete his MBA and my obsessive nesting and disproportionately large belly. But - I'm happy to announce - not long after ditching the belly for the baby (6 weeks, to be exact), it finally happened. My overly ambitious mate agreed to take two whole days off -- which, judging by his refusal to stay home after baby #3 was born, was a huge deal. Fast as a flash I researched inexpensive travel options both locally and abroad. I can now tell you that, here in Europe, cheap flights are hard to come by at the last minute (plus, baby Emma has yet to apply for her passport!). But, as luck would have it we live in one of the most beautiful places on the planet, and after just a 3 hour car ride we were ready to disembark for our first Alpine adventure as a 5-pack.

Berchtesgaden has everything needed to make a European-hungry "Ami's" (American's) eyes water with delight: a castle, two gorgeous competing church towers, a charming old chapel accessible only by boat, the Alps, incredibly scenic hikes, men in their notorious Lederhosen, women in traditional German dirndls, and - last but not least - a local bakery with fresh-baked breads and pastries.

But nearly every adventure can be improved upon and if we ever return to Berchtesgaden, I can assure you that we will not be staying at the farm we chose this time around. Something about the snuff running down the farmer's face, his lack of enthusiasm for his guests, the rusty old playground, the horses stalled up in a foot of their own waste, and the That-70s-Show furnishings in the guest house, say that it wasn't worth the €100 ($140) nightly rate in the off-season.

Fortunately for us, kids pay little attention to these things and Berchtesgaden offered plenty of incredible distractions, boasting everything from the Watzmann indoor swimming complex and child friendly "Salzzeitreise" salt mine tours to boat rides on the Königssee, the Aschauerweiher Fairy Tale forest, and endless farm animals. And, to our surprise, the hike (& picnic) turned out to be a major highlight of the trip from the kids' perspective as well.

Before last weekend we wondered how having three kids would affect our travel, but now I can honestly say that it hasn't changed much. Afterall, travel is always about getting out of your comfort zone. And no one ever said that traveling with kids would be easy. But it's so worth it. Just ask our kids. :)

Two Cultures, Two Languages, And Two Amazing Little Boys

2011-09-01T06:53:00.003+02:00

Unfortunately I've fallen terribly behind on blogging, but if you want to keep tabs on what we've been up to please check our corresponding family blog. Here's a link to the latest posting: http://ourwanderingfamily.blogspot.com/2011/08/alex-turns-3-loves-his-big-brother-and.html

Safe and happy travels!
~Liz

Eating, Praying, and Loving Through America

2011-05-25T13:51:00.009+02:00

Like my own personal, traveling-alone-with-two-kids, version of Eat, Pray, Love (by the talented Elizabeth Gilbert) -- our month in the U.S. unfolded like chapters in a book.

Key Lime Pie - An Old Florida Favorite

Florida, a feast of epic proportions, was not unlike Gilbert's time in Rome, Every day we ate delicious food, with larger-than-life portions - with most of our quality time with family and friends focused around mealtimes. I played the role of tourist guide to my 5-year-old (and his half-pint brother), and - in between meals with family - took him to such American classics as Wendy's and Panera's. Pure indulgence.

Our long Easter weekend in Tennessee and Georgia were much the same, though with a more southern flair (think BBQ) and a laid-back tempo. The homemade fudge and apple fritters, sold in charming country stores across the South, will haunt me for some time to come in the form of my ever-expanding belly and - later - through the dreaded post-pregnancy give-me-back-my-figure battle. Still, it was worth every, buttery, bite!

"Pray" Hosts - Jim & Maureen

Fast forward to Gilbert's India segment - which for us took the form of The New York State and Niagra Falls. It was there that our wonderful host and hostess, Aunt Maureen and Uncle Jim, served as the modern-day-Christian equivalent of the Yogis Gilbert encountered in the Ashram. Everything seems centered around their faith. Heck, we even prayed before meals, at which point Lukas looked at me slightly puzzled, but ever the curious traveler. Their faith reflected in everything, from how they drive to their interraction with total strangers at the grocery store. And, rather than focusing on material things and fancy restaurants, Maureen and Jim were preoccupied with their spirituality, and their do-unto-others-as-you'd-have-done-unto-you mentality certainly left a lasting impression on us.

Lukas gardening with host, Tim, in Keene, NH

The Vermont and New Hampshire portion of our trip, in which we took a road trip with my Mom and spent several days with my sisters, was not unlike Elizabeth's time in Bali. The part of the old Balinese medicine man was taken by a young American male (who happened to be my sister's landloard until recently). There was no telling sketch, and people did not come to Tim to be healed. But he could not seem to do enough for the total strangers staying at his house, and this mystified me. Picking up fresh-baked goods every morning, volunteerting to entertain my children during my sister's graduation ceremony, doing nothing as his neighbors destructive hens peck their way through his gorgeous garden, sharing his only bathroom with three female guests and two children -- all of this made me wonder what drives his kindness. If not religion, what motivates him to be kind to others? Simple karma, or is it selflessness based on love? I'd guess it was the latter, and since we reap what we sew, and how wonderful that Tim was - and continues to be - determined to sew the seeds of love. And of course, that my mom and sisters and I could finally be together again certainly reinforced the "love" portion of our journey.

Niagra Falls on the "Pray" portion of our journey

So we ate, prayed, and loved our way through the United States of America (at least the Eastern seaboard portion of it). :) We're thankful to my Aunts, Uncles, Mom, Grandparents, sisters, cousins, and friends for sharing their homes, homemade meals, and lives with us. Though part of me longs to live closer to those that I cherish, I treasure these wonderful, intensive, visits. I consider myself blessed to have the opportunity to be around some of my favorite people in the world for 24-hour segments, sharing them with my children. It's so much better than the alternative - quick meals or short family get-togethers - and makes for incredible, memories. And with just a little luck, this is the stuff that'll get us through the next dark German-winter. Gosh, it looks like the fudge and fritters may come in handy after all. :)

Tim's thoughtful welcome note to my Mom

The boys hugging on a Jacksonville beach.

The 2011 Vacation - A Month in America

2011-04-25T12:37:00.002+02:00

Every year we try to take the kids away for a month, either to a place that we love, or a place that we long to see. It usually ends up being a vacation full of so many wonderful memories, that the details of what we experienced - and when - begin to melt into one big, incredible adventure.

In 2009 it was Australia, while in 2010 it was a month in the U.S. followed by a couple months in the UAE (with side trips to beautiful Oman and Nepal). And this year we're exploring what I consider to be one of the most stunning, and diverse, lands on the planet, the East coast of the United States of America.

Unfortunately Tobi's not able to join us this trip, as he's made completing his MBA this year a top priority, but he insisted that we go on without him (giving him plenty of time to concentrate on his studies without distraction).

Truthfully, I would have loved to have done a full-out road trip from Florida to New England, but that would have meant sacrificing precious time with distant loved ones, all of them wonderful people that we only get to see once a year. So we opted for a few weeks in Florida, a road trip up to Tennessee, a long Easter weekend in the Blue Ridge Mountains and small-town Tennessee, and a week and a half in New England.

And all of that is being done with family, which means that I'm able to see the world with the children, while allowing them to bond with some of the most important people in my life. What could be better than that?

We've had a couple of hicupps along the way, like doctor's visits and a tummy virus, but those are things that could just as easily happen at home, so who cares?

And now, since the battery of my laptop is dying, I have to say goodbye and begin packing for our roadtrip back to Florida. The Blue Ridge Mountains, not to mention our "redneck Easter" here in Tennessee, were incredible. Next stop, Stone Mountain, where we plan to do the cable car ride and potentially the famous light show. I'll be sure to write all about it once I find my power cable! :)

Safe and happy travels,
Liz

Skiing the Dolomites, but Missing the States

2011-03-02T08:23:00.003+01:00

Strange, when you're homesick, how your country can sometimes haunt you. Here I was, high in the mountains in a gorgeous part of Italy, eating a fabulous Italian meal, when friends proceed to tell me this story:

On a past journey to Montana for snow skiing, they arrived without their luggage and snow gear. After asking around, they determined that there was no place in town if to hire gear. Amazingly, a woman at a concierge desk - an angel in disguise - invited them to her home and lent them her and her husband's personal ski gear - free of charge.

After they relayed the story, they said, 'Could you IMAGINE that ever happening here?!?' Indeed, I couldn't. Which is not to say that people in Germany and surrounds are any less friendly; the idea of "random acts of kindness" just hasn't quite caught on here. Instead, the very same friend has an Aunt in Süd Tirol who cooks a meal for her bachelor brother daily, because of a promise she made to her late mother. And that's probably something you wouldn't see often in the States.

But I always love hearing stories like that from people I meet. Stories of astonishment at how kind Americans can be to total strangers. I have to admit that it gives me a feeling of pride that makes me want to rush home and hug everyone I see. :)

And so began our ski weekend in the Dolomites. Stories of America morphed into a very long journey on a chair lift in the region of Helm, which - in turn - gave me far too much time to contemplate the last time I had gone skiing. "Really? It's been seven years?" I asked my husband incredulously. Sometimes his good memory is a bad thing.

My mind was racing. Three months pregnant, I ski a maximum of once per year (for a day or two), it's been seven years since the last time, and I've been a maximum of seven times in my entire life. Yikes. And then we arrived. Just put on the friggin' skis. Take a deep breath. And ski one little turn at a time.

We skied, we ate, we drank, and we skied some more. After 5 hours or so I noticed one of my knees starting to ache in the middle of the day's most challenging slope. I was going too fast, so I turned, and turned, and turned, cutting across the slope horizontally, but building up speed nonetheless. We got to the bottom. I took a deep breath, at which time my husband revealed that the last slope was in fact "black" (black is the most challenging, but this one was an "easy" black). I had skied a black, and I hadn't fallen once all day. I figured it was a good time to throw in the proverbial towel and people-watch with a nice hot cocoa at the nearby hut.

The others continued for another two hours while I enjoyed the sunshine and a good book. When they returned, we tapped our keg of Franconian beer in the parking lot, and with Aprés ski music playing in the background and white-topped mountains peering down at us curiously, we soaked up the last bit of the sun's rays before retiring to a friend's home for homemade Italian Pasta Carbonera.

I walked back to our pension a bit before the rest of the group, along the banks of the Gsieser Stream, piercing the unsettling silence with my footsteps. It seemed as though every star was visible that night, and they dimly illuminated the leaning timber barns that lined the way to our guesthouse.

Sunday we found a great spot to admire the castle where our friend Marco's mom had spent most of her childhood. He told us stories of visiting his Grandfather, and how he would get two bottles of hot water to keep him warm while he slept, which he would wake up to find frozen.

Castles and fortresses dotted hills and mountains as we headed over the Brenner Pass, into Austrian. Once in Germany, we stopped at a great little traditional restaurant in the town of Holzkirchen (near Munich) called the Alte Post, where we were served by friendly women in dainty dirndls while indulging in hearty Bavarian dishes.

Some may find five hours' drive to be a bit much for a weekend trip, but the mountains, sunshine, snow, castles, and wonderful company, made it worth every minute.

Two Children vs. Three - The Great Travel Dilemma

2011-02-13T22:59:00.001+01:00

It's no secret that we love to travel, but in our lives it takes precedence over things like a second car, or various status symbols. Those are nice to have, but certainly not above traveling. I suppose we kind of felt the same way about a third child until recently. Yes, three children might be nice to have, but not if it means a dramatic change in lifestyle. And then it happened. We now have about 6 months to come to terms with it.

Of course, we battled with ourselves because we knew that our time and attention would soon be divided in three ways, rather than two. But more than anything, each of us (independently) tried to picture exotic journeys with three children. Through South Africa's Garden Route with three in tow... a place where (small) rental cars make up a considerable cost of the journey, and it's not uncommon to come across lodges that don't accept children. Through Oz with three kids crammed in the back seat, wanting desperately to finally visit the Hunter Valley wineries, but unable to because of our "precious" cargo. Heck, just trips back to Florida to visit family will be challenging. How many people have more than one guest room, and how will FIVE of us cram into one room?

Not surprisingly, my blog postings have been quite infrequent lately. So much has been going through my head!!!

But now that we've had a couple of months to ponder these things, I'm determined to make it work. There's no way for us to stop traveling. So when baby #3 turns two and we have to pay for a seat, we'll need a second income. That's doable. And more planning will go into our trips. Gosh, there must be a ton of blogs and books out there about traveling with a big family... and if there's not, maybe that's my calling!

At the end of the day, travel is something we want desperately to share with our children, and where there's a will, there's a way. "Live the life you've imagined."

A Year Later - Thoughts On Leaving The Netherlands

2011-02-08T07:43:00.003+01:00

We finally found the time, and the weather, to make our 650km return visit to The Netherlands; a place we once called home. Though it had been six month since our last trip (which is quite long for a two-and-a-half year old), if you'd seen the kids on that 7-hour car ride you'd have thought this is a monthly commute, and when we arrived with Oma & Opa Claeijs (which is what the kids call our friends Peter and Julia), they walked right in, forgetting all about me. Obviously, they felt right at home.

It was just over a year ago that we packed the last boxes and headed down to Germany, saying "Tot Ziens" to a country that had overtaken our hearts over the course of two-and-a-half, quite incredible, years.

With this being an anniversary of sorts, it was only natural that I begin to reflect on our time there, and especially our likes and dislikes.

Somewhat ironically, a year after our departure some American friends were moving back to the States after their equally long Netherlands adventure, and I asked the husband what he would miss most about the country. Not surprisingly, his answer was one that Tobi might have given one year earlier. Why? The working spouse of an expat couple adjusts effortlessly and, most often, has no qualms with saying goodbye. The reason is clear, they never get as rooted in the country. They develop professional relationships, while we develop relationships with people who we trust implicitly... to take care of our children, to watch over our house, to care enough about us to teach us the language (just writing this is making me teary eyed), to care enough about us to still love us when we fail to master the language, to watch after our pets, to invite us into their homes - and lives - in spite of our limited time there. It's so different. We see the country through completely different glasses.

But, getting back to the point, the husband answered that he would miss both the sea and the centralness of the country, with its easy access to other European countries.

I didn't have a chance to ask my friend - his wife - the same question, but I can imagine what her answer would have been. She might have said, "I'll miss the the windmills, the water everywhere, the picturesque tree-line country roads, the language, the boots and people's sense of fashion [we've actually had a conversation about this], the bicycles (often with 2-3 children on board!), the architecture and conscientious Dutch window treatments, the local butterfly gardens and nearby theme parks, but most of all -- the people."

At least, this is what I would have told you. Yes, the sea is also fabulous, but the people are what make our time in any given place - in this case Zeeland - so special.

So Zeeland, a year after I left you, I want to say thank you again for the memories. My heart hurts a little when I think of having left, but this means that my time with you was well spent, with wonderful people and meaningful relationships, and that - in the end - I found a way to make you my home.

Walk in My Shoes Wednesday - Lauf an der Pegnitz

2011-01-06T10:09:00.165+01:00

"Lauf an der Pegnitz", a city hidden in the far-stretching shadows of Nuremberg (its older, more worldly sibling) is a village in Middle Franconia with about 30,000 residents. Literally translated as "Walk on the Pegnitz", it's hard to say what it's founders were thinking more than 600 years ago.

I took my sister here, along with the kiddies, to show her something off the beaten path. Apparently I was oblivious to the fact that - on this day - any path we chose would be particularly cold and icey. Part of Lauf's charm is its shop-lined pedestrian area, which provided us with plenty of refuge from the cold when we needed it most (i.e. the ever-popular german chain Tchibo, where you can get coffee, undergarments, and home goods in one nifty spot). But Lauf has also aged fabulously, making its moat-lined castle and stunning Nuremberger Tower medieval eye candy for architectural buffs (or Americans such as ourselves, who find structures dating back to the early 1900s ancient and historic).

For a mid-afternoon snack we popped into the Markt-Café on the old Marktplatz (just past the old city hall or "Rathaus"). We ordered a medley of cakes (all of them delicious) and while I sipped on a steamy cappuccino, my sister warmed up with a chocolate stout.

Once feeling had returned to our toes and fingers we headed back out into the cold, wandering through more cobblestone streets before reaching the city's picturesque river. It was there that ducks convened by the dozens, anxious to wish us off as we neared our starting point. Naturally, the boys returned the farewell as only boys do, chasing them into flight and giggling at their victory.

I hoped you enjoyed our stroll through Lauf an der Pegnitz as much as we did. Perhaps your tour was even more pleasant, without jack frost nipping at your fingertips. ;) Lauf is a lovely city, and I'm happy to be able to share it with you.

New Year's Eve... Around the World

2011-01-01T02:00:00.001+01:00

New Year's Eve has always been a bit special for Tobi and I. With the kids sleeping soundly in their (correction, our) bed, I have time to reflect back on the many celebrations in various corners of the world.

Thinking back, there was our first New Year's together, which we spent at the Berlin Philharmonic back in 1999, the dramatic fireworks display in the Rocky Mountains during our honeymoon trip to Ouray (Colorado), an odd "Silvester" Celebration - at a spa in Bad Griesbach - on the heels of a traumatic Christmas-time miscarriage, and a New Year's in Sydney -- overlooking the stunning Sydney Harbor. And then came the children. Though we've modified our New Year's celebrations a bit, we still try to make a bit of an event out of it. From enjoying a traditional "braai" and watching fireworks go up over the Seal Island in South Africa's Mossel Bay, to celebrating with friends in nearby Heroldsberg, and partying Dutch-style in the tiny Zeelandic town of Oudelande, it just seems to keep getting better.

Tonight we kept it simple for the first time in ages. We celebrated with my sister, eating traditional German New Year's "Raclette" (okay, it's actually Swiss, but the Germans have adopted it as their own), then headed out into the street to set off our own fireworks. Some neighborhood friends came by with their kids and while Lukas covered his ears for the first few explosions, Alexander laughed loudly like an evil scientist plotting to take over the world. :) Truth be told, he's been doing that hearty laugh now for a few days and we just can't get enough of it.

And another thing that Alex has been doing lately that I really must mention here -- he's dead-set on two of everything. Two chocolates, two donuts, two drinks at breakfast time. Why? He gets great pleasure in being able to present his big brother with something he knows Lukas will like. How cute is that?

After the fireworks we let the boys play a bit, then brought the little guys to bed. By this point, Lukas was slightly hysterical, and Tobi leaned over and told him that there was one last thing that had to be taken care of... and it was kisses on the belly for the last time this year! So cute. Then I did it to Alex, and Alex insisted on blowing loudly on my tummy before he went to sleep.

As I sit here in my PJs, catching up on blog entries and enjoying chocolate ice cream from a local farm, I don't miss the glamorous New Year's celebrations of yore. Life is good, and we have much to be thankful for in 2010. What surprises will 2011 hold?

But wait, I can already reveal the first surprise! It was a neighborhood block party at the strike of midnight, where we had the rare opportunity to talk with neighbors in the snow, our champagne bottles chilling in the snow banks at our sides. Germans love their fireworks and they set them off with zeal at year's end, and what a show can be, even in the smallest of villages.

So this spontaneous New Year's adventure ended on an unexpectedly fun note. Sometimes not planning is the key to having a memorable journey... near or far. Happy 2011 to you and yours!
~Liz

Ourwanderingfamily - 2010 Year-End Dreams

2010-12-31T10:13:00.004+01:00

A fellow blogging mom and "cyber" friend of mine, Mara Gorman of "Mother of All Trips" wrote a thought-provoking blog posting this past Monday. It was her year's end dream, which, in her case, was to continue to travel the world in spite of her great sorrow at having recently lost her father to cancer.

I like that concept much better than a New Year's Resolution -- a Year's-End (or Year's-Begin) Dream, or Goal. Reading Mara's posting got me to thinking about my dreams and goals for 2011. Though continuing to travel is certainly a big one on the list (the alternative would be like cutting off my oxygen supply), I also want to get better at the recording these adventures -- both in the form of a blog and - later - that of a book.

And it just so happens that one of my Christmas presents began to make this dream a reality. From Tobi I received a book of ourwanderingfamily postings, ranging from August of 2006 to June 0f 2008. This covers our transitions in South Africa; travels through the American "Southwest"; relocation to The Netherlands; Dutch "Carnival" celebrations; visits to Florida; and miscellaneous trips to Paris, London, Antwerp, and various other cities in Germany and the Benelux region. Sound ambitious? Maybe it was, but at the time it didn't seem to be. Most of it was done with children, though I suspect my "better half" was able to partake in about half of these outings. It's hard to believe that in those two years we had so many incredible adventures that we needed 625 pages to account for them. And I want to make this book available online. Maybe a few friends or family members will buy it. I don't expect for it to be an international bestseller; I guess I just love that I can now hold ourwanderingfamily adventures in my hands.

So Dream #1 for 2011 is three-fold. Do more blogging, get the ourwanderingfamily book for 2006 - 2008 online, and create the sequel (covering our adventures from 2008 - 2010).

Dream #2 would have to be to get back to South Africa. It might not be in 2011, but we'll at least begin planning and saving for the trip next year.

Lastly, there's Dream #3, which is to get serious about the pursuit of my freelance writing career. This involves sitting down at the same time, and in the same place every week, setting specific goals, and evaluating my progress on these goals regularly.

Where do the kids fit in in all of this? Pursuing my dreams - and not just theirs - will enable me to be a happier, more well-adjusted mommy. My children mean the world to me. In fact, it's largely because of them that I'm embarking on this journey. Ask Lukas what he wants to be when he grows up, and he'll tell you a writer. Kids are so impressionable at this age; I love that ours will not only see the world, but learn the importance of sharing it with others.

And on that note, I wish you and your family a wonderful 2011, filled with a mosaic of adventures, near or far. And if you'd like to share your dreams and goals for 2011 with us, please do. Receiving comments from readers is a special treat! Happy New Year!

Walk in My Shoes Wednesday -- Seeking Refuge (Indoors) in Lauf an der Pegnitz

2010-12-30T13:00:00.062+01:00

With my sister visiting, I try to get out exploring every other day or so. So far we've visited the famous Nuremberg Christmas market, the pretty old village of Ochsenfurt (near Würzburg), and - yesterday - Lauf an der Pegnitz. Lauf is a beautiful and well preserved city with surprisingly few tourists, and best of all, it's only minutes from our house!

Unfortunately for us, it was one of the coldest days we've had thus far, but the various bakeries and shops provided us with respite from the cold. Our two major stops were at the Markt Café (where we indulged in delicious cappucinos and cake - while my sister sampled a local chocolate stout) and Tchibo. After wandering down the cobblestone main streets we took an alternate route back to the car, passing a small field, frosty river, and colony of ducks before ducking into the car and turning the heat on full blast.

We may have been cold, but it was still a pleasant outing, and the kids were really good sports for most of the afternoon. Lucky us, or perhaps it was Lauf that was lucky. :)

Christmas in Germany - Our (or Their) Top Ten Traditions

2010-12-26T10:25:00.003+01:00

My friend Rachel, who writes for the fabulous website mamamoderne.com, recently asked me to name 10 Top Holiday Traditions here in Germany. Though it took me forever to formulate an answer, I finally found the time, and I thought I'd share these traditions with you.

Christmas in Germany - Top Ten Terrific (or Terrifying) Traditions

Christmas in Germany is officially celebrated for three days - December 24-26. Inofficially, it's celebrated throughout the month of December, and that's done via the candles on (mostly) self-made "advent wreaths", baking, the singing of Christmas songs, visits to various Christmas markets, and - in Kindergartens, schools, and churches - role playing of the manger scene for children of all ages.

They can be terrific, or terrifying, depending on your take on it, but Christmas in Germany can be characterized by:

1) "Plaetzchen backen", or baking cookies - Mine never look like the traditional German "Hausfrau's", but they are just as yummy. From Lebkuchen (a gingerbread like cake-cookie originally made by the Egyptians, modified by the monks, and perfected by the Nurembergers) to Vanilla Kipferl (little horns dusted with vanilla sugar) and dozens of other scrumptuous treats (see http://www.weihnachtsplaetzchen.de/index.php?&lang=en), I'm not sure there's anything more Germanic than baking with - and for - friends and family in the month of December.

2) Christmas markets and Glühwein, or spiced wine - Christmas in Germany wouldn't be the same without the Christmas markets and the soul-warming glühwein - or spiced wine. Nearly every town and city hosts a market, and while some are just for a day or a weekend, others go on for weeks and attract people from around the world. I find the most magical are those which boast the presence of the "Christkind" or Christchild -- which brings us to our next tradition...

3) The "Christkind", Or "Christ child"- Don't ask me why, but the Christkind (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christkind) does not even remotely resemble baby Jesus. It's actually a SHE, with long curly angel-like blonde locks, a white gown, and a golden crown. In most regions, her time is divided up between various Christmas markets (in reality, most major markets have their own Christkind, chosen annually from hundreds of applicants), Christmas tree decorating (usually performed by the mother -- this is a slick technique developed by German hausfrauen years ago which allows them to fully control how and when the tree is decorated without little medling hands), and the delivery of gifts (paired with the decorating of the tree - usually while Papa or some other designated adult takes the children out of the house for a couple hours). If you're a foreigner living in Germany and you're dead-set on passing down your holiday traditions, it's unlikely that Santa Claus will be "coming to town" for long.

4) The Adventskranz, or Advent Wreath - Growing up in America, we had different colors on our wreath. But here in Germany, the candles tend to be one color, with the wreaths being traditionally self-made - from evergreen that is either collected from the forest or purchased from a florist or streeet-side stand. This year ours is simple - a silver platter with four white candles on it, but I think it's just as lovely. Every week, starting with the last Sunday in November, a new candle is lit, until finally - on the last Sunday before Christmas - the last candle has its chance to shine.

5) The "Tannenbaum", or Christmas tree - Usually purchased a few days to a week before Christmas, the tree is decorated by the mother, who then claims that the Christkind was there in her childrens' absence. Though some people still prefer traditional candles on the tree, many people have a sting of lights made to look like candles. Christmas trees in Germany are very expensive and tend to be less full than their American counterparts. As mentioned before, the Christkind places gift under the tree at the time of decoration - usually sometime in the course of "Heilig Abend" or Christmas Eve - on December 24th.

6) Heilig Abend, or Christmas Eve dinner with family - The favorite Christmas Eve meal is goose, though some families will do Karpfen, or carp (a freshwater delicacy in many parts of Germany and relative to the catfish)

7) Midnight mass or "Kindergottesdienst" (Children's mass) - The majority of Germans are either Catholic or Protestant and - though many choose not to attend mass throughout the year - Christmas services are highly attended and a big part of Christmas Eve festivities.

8) Manger scenes and Jesus-and-Mary reenactments - In the homes, churches, kindergartens, and schools children make manger scenes and role-play in various reenactments of the birth of Jesus (barring large cities, there is no real separation of church and state here). My son is four, and within a month he has learned various religious songs in German - some of which he has dutifully passed along to Mama.

9) "Familie Spaziergang", or family walk - preferrably in the snow - or sledding - Germans love to be outdoors. While people in America might sit down on the sofa and watch a Christmas movie, many Germans head outdoors to walk in the snow or - weather permitting - go sledding.

10) Time off of work, and - more importantly - time spent with Family - Most people take anywhere from one to two weeks off of work around the Christmas holiday. This means lots of time spent together as a family -- eating roasts and home-cooked meals, playing games, building houses to help the winter-hard birds, going on long walks and sledding, and watching Christmas movies.

Amidst all of these wonderful traditions, there is one thing I really miss at Christmas-time here in Germany. That infectious holiday spirit so obvious throughout the U.S., where people can't help but wish eachother a happy holiday, Merry Christmas, or happy Hanukah... is nearly nonexistant here. Passing neighbors, I grin nervously on the snowpacked streets, waiting anxiously to hear a Christmas greeting before offering mine. It never comes. Should I offer it first, should I keep it to myself? Does it mean more if we use it more sparingly? Should we expect to hear it from store personnel? Do they really mean it when they say it hundreds of time per day? I don't pretend to have the answers, but - in a way - it does seem a little bit less like Christmas in the absence of well-wishing Americans with their infectious holiday grins and bottomless holiday salutations. And on that note, on this last day of Christmas here in Germany, I'll close by wishing you, and yours, a Frohe Weihnachten and very Merry Christmas!

Walk in My Shoes Wednesday - An Odd Afternoon in Neunkirchen am Brand

2010-12-09T15:53:00.005+01:00

On days when the weather is questionable - say, most of the winter here in Central Europe - it really is hard to imagine any outing being especially magical or memorable. But perhaps the secret is in knowing that not every adventure has to be extraordinary. An afternoon filled with interesting discoveries, namely the realization that the restaurants, libraries, museums, and banks of our neighboring village are all closed on Wednesday afternoons, may be just as valuable. Fortunately for us, German bakeries, such as the cozy Kalchreuther in Neunkirchen's "city" center, are open throughout the day, allowing 4-year-old Lukas and I to spend some time together in spite of the strange business hours of other establishments.

Now, not only do we now know exactly where the library is and its opening hours, but we also know what kind of art is on display at the Felix-Müller Museum. And, to counter our slight disappointment, we bought a package of delicious chocolate-coated Lebkuchen (the Kalchreuther Bakery's gingerbread-like Lebkuchen is second only to self-made!) then popped into the always pleasant "Das Eck - Lesen-Spielen-Schenken" (or "Read-Play-Give") for some random Christmas goodies. Lastly, we took some time to admire the snow-dusted art in the town's market square, pictured left.

Lessons learned on this "adventure"?
- German restaurants close for the afternoon, if they're open at all during the day. Your options are to eat around Noon or find a bakery. (Though I knew this, I find myself just as surprised every time it happens!)
- Neunkirchen am Brand's Library has won some awards for their children's programs. Great! Having said that, it certainly has strange hours, namely:

Tuesday	11.00-14.00 Uhr
Thursday	16.00-19.30 Uhr
Friday	15.00-17.00 Uhr
Sunday	9.00-11.00 Uhr

Lucky for me, an afternoon with Lukas is never dull. He did some "karate" moves for the woman seated next to us at the bakery, and - in between bites of chocolate-banana - talked loudly about how he can speak four languages (he considers being able to count in Dutch and German mastery of the language). He never asked where his brother was (but at some point I volunteered that he was with Oma & Opa); I guess he was just happy to be out with just his Mama -- like the "old" days. Which got me to thinking about our many adventures together, and how great a little traveler Lukas has always been. It may not have been an extraordinary adventure, but we still ventured out, and - most importantly - we were on it together.

For those of you who can't head out and adventure right this moment, why not help build a village for those in need and secure your chance to win some great prizes? :) I'll be giving away a personalized tour of Nuremberg, Bamberg, or Munich to one lucky winner, and there are some other killer prizes up for grabs! For more information, please visit the Passports with Purpose website. Your contribution will be much appreciated!

Cheers,
Liz

1 Marriage + Countless Obstacles = 1 Priceless Night in Bad Brückenau

2010-11-26T07:47:00.023+01:00

This November 25th marked a big day for us, namely a decade of us being married (which is why "Walk in my Shoes Wednesdays" fell by the wayside this week). Those of you that are - or have been - married know that it's not one giant honeymoon, but a journey like any other. The rains may well come and create a flash flood, at which point you can either find a creative way to get past or give up and call it quits (this exact scenario actually happened during our travels through remote outback Australia - when I was three months pregnant with Lukas).

Curious about some of our roadblocks? They include, but are not limited to...
-Cultural differences ranging from nudity issues to prudishness, and lack-thereof... and don't even get me started on the expectations of a German "hausfrau"
-Survivor-like challenges, like being lost in the Utah desert at night with an ever-decreasing supply of fuel
-Living apart (in a foreign country) for 13 months, because your job dictates it
-Being forced to choose between your career and your relationship
-Having to work through 2 miscarriages (one at three months)
-Constantly having to get reacquainted with a new culture, then leave it (and your friends) behind
-Dealing with a flash flood in the Australian outback - not knowing if anyone will ever find you if you get stranded or robbed
-Hearing your spouse say something to the effect of, "I know I told you that I could live in your country forever, but I changed my mind."
-Coming to terms with (potentially) never again living at "home", and seeing your family (and having your children see your family) only once a year
-Expecting your partner to spend hours flushing the gasoline out of a motor home's water tank after an all-girls trip through South Africa's Western Cape
-Learning that your husband (or wife) will have to spend a half year in the Middle East, while you single-parent back in Europe

... and this is just to name a few! But hey, what fun is a journey on a straight, narrow street?

And since this kind of milestone is certainly one worth celebrating, we dusted off an old gift certificate from bongo.nl, chose a hotel in our area, and headed out to some unknown resort two hours North of our home.

Okay, so it wasn't just a place. It was the former summer residence of King Ludwig, a sort of Bavarian Versailles-Meets-Wellness-Resort, and it was fabulous!

Enter the Dorint Hotel, in beautiful Bad Brückenau. I don't have to tell you what a treat it was for me, as an American, to stay in a complex of castles and historic old villas, walking out of the hotel and right into a Bavarian fairy tale. Of course, Tobi enjoyed it too, in spite of his Germanic what's-so-special-about-castles? attitude. And add the Rhön Mountains, River Sinn, and fabulous Bavarian food to the equation, and you have a recipe for a romantic evening. We also loved its saunas (though I should add that they're mixed-gender and clothing-prohibited), spa treatments, indoor/outdoor swimming pool, and water "kür".

In fact, the water kür turned out to be one of the most fascinating parts. It involved the consumption of bottomless amounts of spring-fed mineral waters which are reported to have healing properties, assisting in everything from hair and nails to blood circulation, liver conditions, and kidney problems.

We may have set off knowing little about Bad Brückenau but it truly was the perfect way to celebrate 10 years together. And for 2020, Hawaii's on the radar. Heck, maybe we'll celebrate 12 and 1/2 years (half of 25!), like the Dutch. Then we wouldn't have to wait quite so long. :)

Marriage. Ours may not be perfect, but we certainly are loving the journey.

Incredible Journey's with Mom

2010-11-20T12:43:00.000+01:00

Today's my mom's birthday, which got me to thinking about our (now long-distant) relationship, and time spent together. More specifically, I began thinking about our trips. As a single-parent she wasn't able to take us to Europe, but we did have some pretty memorable journeys together. Each of these undoubtedly contributed to my unquenchable wanderlust as an adult.

Most of our time was spent in Florida, though we did live in California for just under a year when I was about Lukas' age. From mini-trips to incredible Central Florida landmarks such as Rock Springs (aka Kelly Park) and Lake Eola, to weekends spent at simple, but clean, motels in Indiatlantic Beach, we traveled within our means. Then, around the age of 13, my mom took me out to the Grand Canyon to meet my paternal grandparents, cousins, and biological father for the first time.

In addition to meeting people who I would grow to love fiercely, it was the first trip where it was just me and mom (my two sisters stayed with mom's parents), and we saw some absolutely incredible places! Of course, everyone who visits the Grand Canyon is awe-stricken, but to then see my father - and bits and pieces of myself in his features and demeanor - set against the backdrop of one of the world's most spectacular places, made it nothing short of unforgettable.

Now that I'm "all grown up", mom and I see each other in various places across the globe. From hikes in Queensland, Australia and a girls' caravan trip (this time, with my sisters and a very-young-Lukas) on South Africa's Garden Route, to Germany's Christmas markets, the Brussels' Atomium ("I know you just got off of a transatlantic flight mom, but lets just stop here quickly!"), and a slightly unfortunate visit to the city of Antwerp involving an emergency shopping trip to replace the wet pants of a toddler, we now have so many (mostly) fun memories to share.

And then there was a very fun Girls' weekend in sweet Savannah, Georgia, and, more recently, a visit to a "Swamp Cabbage Festival" somewhere in deeply-rural Florida. I could go on and on, but because I have an important phone call to make, I won't. :)

Yes, my mom, she loves to travel. And, on this, her 54th birthday, I salute her unquenchable wanderlust, and thank her for sharing it, and a great many journeys, with me.

I love you, Mom!
Elise

P.S. Big birthday hugs from Lukas, Alexander, and Tobi!!!

Walk in My Shoes Wednesday - Magical Moments in Bamberg

2010-11-18T09:22:00.180+01:00

Several times a week I drink out of one of my favorite coffee cups, and on it is printed a quote that I try to live by, "Go confidently in the direction of your dreams! Live the life you've imagined." Since the life I've imagined is one where I visit magical cities across the world for as long as I'm humanly able, I cannot explain why it's been nearly a year since we moved to Franconia, and yet we've managed to visit Bamberg's masterpiece-of-a-city only once in that time.

Fortunately, that's easy enough to change. Here in Germany, you drop the children off at the Kindergarten, hop in the car, jump on the Autobahn, and before you know it you're in another fabulous gem of a city.

And so it was that I found myself meandering the narrow cobblestone alleys of Bamberg this week, breakfasting in a half-timber café whose walls leaned precariously into the banks of the Regnitz and snapping photos unabashedly of the familiar old city hall -- from every conceivable angle.

Though I find both Nuremberg and Bamberg to have stunning profiles from a distance, there's a saying here in Germany that's quite fitting, "Wenn Nürnberg oder Frankfurt mein wäre, wollte ich's in Mainz oder Bamberg verzehren." Literally translated, it means "If Nuremberg or Frankfurt were mine, I'd want to consume Mainz or Bamberg."

It's no exaggeration to say that, for some, the places in which we do not reside, these are the place which capture both our hearts and minds. Enter Bamberg. A place where every street corner seems to reveal a deep and beautiful secret. Where else can you find a city welfare office that has taken up residence in an old castle? In Bamberg. Where, even if you just walk, you're bound to stumble upon something magnificent.

Passports with Purpose - Build a Village, Win a Prize!

2010-11-15T11:17:00.008+01:00

Dear friends and family, I have some exciting news for you! I've decided to donate my time and travel expertise to raise money for this year's Passports with Purpose initiative. The winner will receive a 5-hour guided tour of Nuremberg, Bamberg, or Munich, with pick up and drop off at a Nuremberg area hotel and/or the Nuremberg airport. The tour will be catered to the winner's interests -- i.e. family travel, Renaissance art, modern architecture, history, etc. As the tour guide, I'll learn as much as humanly possible about that particular city in advance, then share that knowledge with my visitor(s).

Here's a sneak peak at what we could visit:
Nuremberg: On a "Buildings and Monuments" tour, we might see the fabulously preserved 1000-year-old castle, Weißer Turm or "White Tower" (which is now brown), Main Market Square with it's much loved "Schöner Brunnen", and the old city wall.

Bamberg: Everything -- afterall, the entire old town is UNESCO World Heritage listed! Important sites: the cathedral, monastery, old city hall with it's impressive mural, and charming little cobblestone streets.

Munich: From the famous "Hofbräuhaus" to the elegant Frauenkirche, sprawling English Garden, and musical Marienplatz, Munich has so much to offer.

Now, let me tell you more about the Passports with Purpose project. Each year, participating bloggers offer great prizes. Then, with each $10 donation, participants increase their chances to win one of many great prizes. So for just $10 you could win a 5 HOUR PERSONALIZED TOUR of one of three great German cities!!!

Last year, we were able to raise $30,000 to build a school for underpriveldged children in Cambodia. Now this year, with your help, we'll raise $50,000 to build an entire village in rural India through our partnership with Friends of Lafti (and organization dedicated to helping India's "untouchables").

So, dear family and friends, whether you live here or are planning a trip out to our "neck of the woods", please contribute to this cause, and have you're name entered into the drawing for you're very own personalized tour. Need more information? Visit the Passports with Purpose website or send me an email. Feeling lucky? Click here to donate!

Walk in My Shoes Wednesdays -- A Golf Course, Antique Shop, and Castle - Oh My!

2010-11-11T15:47:00.009+01:00

The Erlangen Golf Course, Neuland Antique Shop, and Eckenheid Castle now have one thing in common -- me. On this week's "Walk in my Shoes Wednesday" I wasn't at all sure what I was after. The only certainty? I wanted to explore.

Perhaps it's not surprising that a nearby street sign pointing up to a golf course (that I had never before seen) beckoned me. Afterall, it was a most picturesque single-lane etched into a forest of giant fir pines. The course itself is serene with its gentle rolling hills, though the name - Golf Club Erlangen - is peculiar, since we're nearly 30 minutes from the city of Erlangen. I find golf courses tend to be amongst the prettiest places on the planet, and - on this particular course - signs warned of deer crossing, which certainly would add to this place's charm at dawn and dusk. The food at the clubhouse is also reportedly good; perhaps that's something we should try out on our next family hike!

Back in the car I rambled on, albeit it for a short time, before another sign jumped out at me. I stopped. Who wouldn't for a little barn with amazing antiques and cute trinkets inside. How fun! Neuland is a tiny shop along the main street of the village of Forth (Frohnhofer Hauptstr. 1 for those with a "navi"), within the greater district of Eckenhaid, and they carry antiques, exclusive clothing, and decorative items for both indoors and out.

Okay, I still had some time. Alexander was fast asleep in the car. Where to next? Remembering that I had read about a castle in the area, I headed towards the village of Eckenhaid, where I came across Gasthof Schloss Eckenhaid. The 17th-century castle is small but noble, and has been in the same family since the mid 1800s. Though it is now a much loved restaurant in the region, Mondays and Wednesdays are their "Quiet Days" (or in German "Ruhetage"), so I would have to settle for admiring the outside on this fine afternoon.

Then came Helga, from the nearby village of Lauf. What a spirited, lovely Oma! We talked for at least 15 minutes about our families, our origins, our culture, and more, answering questions like, "What role does history play in the stand-offishness of [local] Franconians?" and "Why are some more stand-offish than others?" Her theory? Many years of poverty made life rough for these people. They had to work hard for what they had, and - just 50 years ago - there wasn't money for children to finish school, much less go off and learn a trade.

But Helga is proof that there are plenty of people in Franconia that enjoy conversing... even with [GASP!] strangers. Lucky for me, because at the end of the day, it's the people we meet that make each adventure so special, and dear Helga made this "Walk in My Shoes Wednesday" one to remember!

Walk in My Shoes Wednesday -- Cycling to Eckental, Holland-Style

2010-11-04T15:18:00.014+01:00

I've said it before and it's certainly worth repeating. As an expat, you may leave a country, but traces of that place will forever remain; like geographical laugh lines. This explains (partially, at least) why I've become a bit of the village weirdo here in our little German dorf. Afterall, who else goes on cycling tours in the rain? And, of those, how many will be wearing a dress and boots? Really, can you blame them?

Yes, the American (turned Aussie, turned South African, turned Dutch... figuratively speaking) went cycling today. She took her Dutch cycle, sporting her oh-so-Dutch outfit (albeit with a South African windbreaker), and rode aimlessly from village to village. All in the name of a little adventure.

First came Steinbach, then Brand, then Eckental. Wind and rain pelted my glasses, rendering them useless.

Granted, to the average German, these places are nothing out of the ordinary. But to this "Amie" (as they like to call us), they most certainly are. Take the charming miniature house on the main street in Steinbach, once dedicated to baking bread (located on this farm, but I forgot to photograph it, oops!). It stands today, not because it is a historic landmark, but because the farmer (whose wife is the fourth generation at this fabulous "hof"), knows that if he tears it down, the gemeinde (or local government), will race to enlarge the street. This would equate to more traffic and pollution just outside his front door, so the "backoffen" stays.

At the edge of Steinbach (don't try to google it, it's pointless) are sheep. They're hard to get to, because there is no sidewalk on their side of the street, and drivers are permitted to go dangerously fast on this road. But, with just a bit of determination passersby can reach their enclosure and watch them retreat skittishly. :)

Next comes Brand, literally translated as "Fire". Like most villages in this area, it's estimated to be nearly a thousand years old. Locals know Brand for it's fabulous (and oh so overpriced) "House of Sports" gym and it's Aldi Supermarket. Approaching Aldi on the first day of freshly advertised products is inadviseable. Feeling brave? Get there early. Very early. But hey, it was adventure I was after (which I tend to define as all new experiences and impressions), so in I went. Nudging my way through the crowds, there was no doubt I'd find things that I couldn't live without. Within minutes I was toting three items around the store, with only enough cash for two. (Locals, be advised: If you're looking for a size 40 of the women's "weatherproof" winter boots, do not look under the Christmas napkin display, PLEASE!). Needless to say, I'll be going back with the car tonight.

The adventure continued along some unmarked dirt bicycle path, with me unsure of my next destination. It ended up being the town of Eckental, where I cycled right past our pediatrician's office (I never thought it was that close!). Eckental also has a little restaurant and bakery, so it serves as a good spot for a break. I highly recommend the chocolate croissants at the "Kalchreuter" bakery (my local favorite).

Homeward bound, I contemplated taking a different way home, which would take me through other villages, but decided they were worth an altogether separate outing. So stay tuned for my trip to sweet Großgeschaidt!

I loved this week's Walk in My Shoes Wednesday, and hope that you did too. If you have a blog and are interested in doing something similar, just let me know and I'll post your link!
Signing off from Kleinsendelbach, Germany,
Liz

Walk in My Shoes Wednesday - Four Charming Rüsselbachs

2010-10-23T09:38:00.005+02:00

The signs pointed towards Gräfenburg, a place I know fairly well. A lovely little village not far from our home here in Kleinsendelbach, Gräfenburg is the gateway to the "Franconian Switzerland" and, as such, has played a very important role in this region's history. Well known for its breweries, many of Gräfenburg's old half-timber buildings lean precariously into its uneven cobblestone streets, and the few that don't boast traditional handpainted Bavarian murals on their sides.

But as I drove down the winding street, which then merged into the next, beautiful Gräfenburg was altogether dismissed. I ached to explore something new.

All at once, the road forked. Most cars veered to the right. Only a small yellow sign pointed towards the left, towards the village of Affalterbach. I head never heard of Affalterbach, though it was only minutes from my house. Perfect. Left we went.

Affalterbach was small, and before we knew it, we were in Stöckach, with its proud "St. Ägidius" Church tower, following signs towards the arterial B2. At the edge of the small town of Stöckach appeared a curve in the road and, with it, a sign for the "Sonnen- und Planetenweg". Now things were starting to get interesting.

Suddenly metal sculptures of Uranus and Neptune appeared seemingly out of nowhere, adorning soft green fields of frost, and causing one to stop and take in the view of the valley and surrounding hills, dotted with shades of red and brown. The beauty of the sculptures, though no match for the stunning panorama, provided passersby with an excuse to stop and admire the view, spread softly like watercolor brushstrokes on the broad canvas of the Franconian countryside. As my two-year-old recently began to say, "wunderschön"!

Once we reached the B2, we had to decide whether to go left, towards Gräfenburg, or right, towards Eckental. We chose left, but then immediately took a right turn, our (okay, my) curiousity caught by the sign "1000 Jahren Rüsselbach". I had never heard of it, and it was a thousand years old. How much better could it get?

We moseyed through Unterüsselbach, with it's crumbling old half-timber barn, likely as old as the Rüsselbachs themselves, then onto Mittel- and Kirchrüsselbach (this is where the Rüsselbachs go to church... imagine walking a kilometer or two up a steep hill to get to church every week!), rounding one final corner to reach the top of the hill in Oberüsselbach. With its hiking trails, spring fed creek, sprawling solar-energy farm, and panorama view-picnic spot, Oberüsselbach was quite literally the icing on the cake.

A day later I returned to hike to the Spring with the whole family. It was a slightly risky hike, with wobbly stones and lots of slippery Autumn foliage covering the trail, but at its end were the ruins of a teensy half-timber forest cottage. It's roof was caving in, and cobwebs covered the four-paned window. How fun to stumble upon this little fading gem!

As we returned to the car clouds started to gather. Our timing couldn't have been better. I could have just as well spent the morning at the mall, sipping on Starbucks. But this little adventure, it was priceless. And an important part of me was brought back to life. Welcome back, spontaneous adventures. I hope you're here to stay.

Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About a German "Kindergarten" (In the Country)

2010-10-19T12:03:00.008+02:00

Kids really are like silly putty (remember that stuff? Does it still exist?). They adapt so darned quickly to any given environment.

In the Netherlands our little ones spoke Dutch and proudly wore their little wooden clogs (on occasion). In Dubai, they inquired about certain words in Arabic, the tiny carpets seen in certain corners of some shopping centers, and the practice of praying to mecca. But here in Germany, they're adapting SO quickly, that I find myself learning from then, singing songs like, "Was müssen das für Bäume sein, wo - die - GROße Elefanten spazieren gehen, ohne sich zu Stooooßen" (or in English, "What kind of trees must they be, where the BIII-IIIG elephants go wa-al-king, without bumping intoooo eachother"... sure sounds cuter in German!).

Alex loves to sing Lukas' songs, but doesn't know all the words. This morning he sang his version of Lukas' Elefant song, "La-la-la-la la-la-la-la? la-la-la-la, la-la-la-la la-la-la-la, la-la-la ZU STOSSEN!" And yesterday Alexander (whose language seems to be coming a bit slower than his older brother's at that age), sang another song, emphasizing the word "wunderschön" -- a fairly long word to hear coming out of a two year old's mouth.

And I'm finally happy with our Kindergarten (kindly translated by Lukas just a few weeks back into "Children's Garden" for his American Granny's sake), which is huge! A half year ago, I was worried about the quality of learning provided to the children here in our tiny village (which I thought was virtually non-existent). Meanwhile, Lukas has begun coloring inside of the lines (or at least attempting to), singing new songs ever week (which he really retains, and loves to share with us!), and will occasionally even correct my German.

Plus, the "field trips" are great. Seriously! What fun it is to be a kid in this village, with things like:

A couple weeks back we went to the other side of the village for a huge potato fire. This was done on a field where most of the potatoes had already been harvested. The kids were instructed to pick up the remaining potatoes, throw them in a bonfire, wait for the fire to go out (while waiting they sang a few songs), and let the potatoes cool, with the big payoff being the lunch-time potato feast.
Then there was the Thanksgiving outing to the Catholic church. The kids trecked through the town (a 5 minute walk) to the Catholic church. Once inside they inspected the cute little Thanksgiving displays (a "rainbow" of fresh vegetables placed at the altar... which brought to mind pre-Christian and Eastern religions involving sacrifice), talked about how important God was to the harvests (ehem, no seperation of church and state here - I imagine this is slightly awkward for the two-or-so muslim children in the Kindergarten), and sang a song about God and the harvest. Back at school they took the little baskets full of fresh fruits and veggies (prepared lovingly by Mama & Papa - preferrably with fruits and veggies from one's own garden) and played games, danced, and sang for the remainder of the morning. Still not impressed? They took turns chopping the veggies the following day (even the toddlers!), making a delicious soup for all to enjoy. The kids were delighted with themselves!
And, most recently, they headed from the Kindergarten down to the end of our street, where they got to learn all about horses. Our neighbor, the horse owner, explained the nuances of horse body-language, what they eat, what they pooh, and how they age. Of course, all of this was followed by songs and horse-play (literally, they role-played horses!) in the fields behind the horses.

So, needless to say, it's quite alright. Okay, it's more than alright! This winter they'll be participating in a St. Martin lamp procession, going sledding, and more. And in the meantime, I've been nominated to the Parent's Board (or "Elternbeirat"). I didn't write my name on the list (thinking I may just watch and focus on getting adjusted this year), but I ended up getting the most votes (what a surprise, the foreigner with the imperfect German!), and am more than happy to help out.

And as for learning, well, I asked Lukas to color on the inside pages of a couple photo albums that we recently created. Surprised at how well he suddenly seemed to be coloring, I complimented him. His response was in German, and he said something to the effect of, "Ja Mama, ich strenge mich jetzt an beim malen! Vorher habe ich mich halt nicht angestrengt, aber jetzt weiss ich dass ich mich ein bisschen anstrengen müß!" -- Rough translation: "Well Mom, I'm concentrating now! Before I didn't, but now I know that I have to apply myself!" How cute is that?!?

I'm just so proud of them, and I know that Tobi must feel the same. There are still plenty of fights throughout the day, but they're also so affectionate towards one another. There's always a kiss and a hug involved if one of them has to go somewhere. And, last night, Lukas smothered his little brother with kisses at bathtime (which is significant when you consider that this is the time of day when they usually end up inciting eachother to splash, fight, hit, and cry). Alexander's reaction? He feigned disgust, "trying" wildly to keep Lukas at arms' length, his sternest face giving way to laughter.

Yes, being in one place and finally having Papa back really seems to be helping the kids. There's more one-on-one parent time for each child, and they finally know what to expect each day. Life has become predictable for our little nomads. Staying put may be challenging for Mama, but if it's good for them, I'll find a way to make it work for me. Because, at the end of each day I have the same recurring thought, they're so worth it.

A Fish Out of Water - I'm Diving Back In!

2010-10-13T10:47:00.009+02:00

On this journey of mine, I've often encountered times where I've lost the motivation to write and, with it, the motivation to blog. On our transition from The Netherlands to Germany via Dubai, my blogging mojo seems to have been boxed and buried in the black hole that some refer to as a basement.

It really is a pity since, as some of you may know, I've put a fair amount of effort into establishing this blog, and "branding" myself. So when my domain name - www.ourwanderingfamily.com - expired, without my receiving any notification whatsoever from the provider (thanks, Google Apps!), I was devestated. Of course, it was promptly repurchased by someone else, and all of this happened within the course of a few days. As if to rub salt into my wounds, I discovered the new site is utterly, unforgiveably useless.

Amidst the chaos, I found myself pondering issues that I never thought I'd have to face, such as "How do I start over?" and "Is my blog any less valuable without the traffic?". There was also the question of whether people will continue to visit and enjoy my blog without the catchy address. But perhaps the most frustrating challenge I now face is how I can possibly redirect traffic from a site that now belongs to someone else, back to my site, which they originally intended on visiting. I'm assuming that's not possible, but would love to hear some suggestions!

A part of me misses blogging. My tranquil life on the farm was so conducive to writing and blogging, and here I find my time divided between carting the kids to and from Kindergarten; packing and unpacking lunches; cleaning house and trying desperately to keep up with the laundry; attending networking events and Tupperware- and Cleaning Supply parties in an effort to make friends quickly, with my dwindling "free time" divided between reading and "retail therapy" sessions at the Erlangen Arcaden.

Around 4 pm every afternoon it strikes me that I'm unhappy. Generally speaking I'm a big-cheesy-smile kind of gal, so when I find myself frowning for about three hours of every day, it concerns me in a do-I-need-to-call-a-therapist?!? kind of way. Then yesterday, it hit me like a ton of bricks. While I miss blogging, what my ever-wandering soul is really thirsting for is exploration.

I feel like a fish out of water. Try as I may (albeit on a subconcious level), there's no wishing gills into lungs. The universe is shouting, "Get back in the water!" and I plan on doing just that. Which is I've designated Wednesdays (just like in South Africa!) as "Walk in my Shoes" Wednesday.

Who knows where it will take us. Maybe I'll just wander aimlessly. Maybe I'll let myself get lost in the hills and villages of Franconia. Maybe I'll visit a castle. But you'll be right there with me. At least I hope you will. Consider this your official invitation!

I owe this to myself, and it's the only way I know of to reclaim my sanity. This frown has got to be turned upside down. As poet William Ernest Henley brilliantly wrote, "I am the master of my fate. I am the captain of my soul." Yes, I will reclaim that wind for my sails. Bon voyage!

Farms, Castles, and Fortresses - Oh My!

2010-09-25T17:50:00.003+02:00

The fountain at the center of the castle's courtyard was still. Only after Lukas' exit from the picturesque arched passageway did an impressive plume of water shoot up into the air, putting a huge double-dimple grin on his 4-year-old face. "Mama, I did that!", he pronounced with pride.

We were at Schloss Tambach for the day, and I had my mother-in-law to thank. It was a pleasant break from our 3-day farm stay (we were staying at the "Steffahof" farm in Northern Franconia), and I was amazed at how much this castle had to offer. Lukas opened an ivey-fringed timber door, only to reveal an unmarked 18th century renaissance-style church. Then, standing at the courtyard's baluster we had a panoramic view of the wildlife park beyond, with it's deer, falconry, and sprawling green parklands. As if that weren't enough -- at the back of the castle we discovered a museum dedicated to the "Hunt and Fishery" (or "Jagd- und Fischerei Museum"), complete with an impressive dinosaur exhibit that the boys adored.

In the wildlife park we fed free-roaming deer, spotted some elk, and watched timidly as bald eagles and vultures soared over our heads, their wing tips grazing the rim of my glasses.

The next day was "my day" to organize, and - with the kids' best interest in mind - I organized absolutely nothing. I let them roam around the farm, playing with cats, kittens, and cows. Just before lunch we headed out on a hike down the winding serpentine road carved into the cool evergreen forest, pausing for a streamside picnic along the way. (Note to self -- and anyone else interested: there is NO food or refreshment available in the town of Wilhelmsthal from 12:30 to 2:30 pm, and no taxi to return you to your guest house, though some locals may be kind enough to offer.)

But the kicker - the absolute icing on the cake - was our last morning, which we spent in Kronach. With its ancient fortress, cobblestone streets, and well-preserved medieval center, it quickly became one of my favorite German cities, and - with a little luck - I'll be back to explore it again someday.

My Transitions Abroad

2010-09-19T08:28:00.007+02:00

Easter Together! (Dubai, UAE)

This week's adventure was an unusual one. While we are at home, we're busy re-establishing roles and responsibilities, with my husband Tobi now back from his half-year assignment in Dubai. Strangely, there are very few resources out there for expats and spouses dealing with non-military separation. However, I've come to discover that since the conditions are in many ways similar, the potential solutions are also relevant in our situation.

Let me take a step back. The amount of women caring for their families while their husbands are away - be it for 5-days out of every 7 for a sales position or the family trucking business, or for months at a time due to a delegation through Siemens, GE, or other international companies - are abundantly high. Personally, I have a half-dozen friends for whom this is a reality, and while in the beginning I felt pity for them and felt the need to bring them casseroles or pans of lasagne, I've come to realize that it's not a terrible way of life and - furthermore - it makes you a stronger, self-sufficient woman.

Carrie is an American mother-of-two living in The Netherlands. Her husband has non-stop business trips to Russia, Asia, South Africa, and many parts of Europe. It's not unusual for him to be gone for half of every month. Ways that she copes are weekly trips to the gym, keeping herself VERY busy (with LOTS of visitors and a TON of trip planning!), and plenty of healthy, ready-made meals that are easy to prepare.

Angie is a well traveled Dutch mother-of-two living in Zeeland. Her husband is gone for 5 days of the week for the family's trucking business. She has the perfect support network, since she lives in the same village as her parents and sister (who also happens to be her best friend). Angie eats with her parents and sister one night a week, and with her in-laws another.

Annemarie is a Dutch mother-of-two living in Belgium (though she spends her summers in Zeeland). Her husband owns a talent-agency and works extremely long hours. On top of that, he has more hobbies than a retiree. There's cycling, sailing, racing, and more. Annemarie's tricks? A maid, network of close friends, and the opportunity to make a difference in the lives of others by volunteering at a hospice-style nursing home.

Kirstin is an American mother-of-one (with one on the way), living in Dubai. Kerstin's husband is gone for a few weeks at a time, and home for a few weeks at a time (if I recall correctly!). Kerstin chose to live in a part of Dubai that is rich in Expats -- Jumeirah Beach Residence (or JBR). She joined the JBR Sand Pit group, where she meets other expat mommies every week for coffee, play dates, beachtime fun, and informative talks about life in Dubai.

Then there's my Aunt Beth, whose husband is gone for about a month of every year with the Air National Guard; Casey, another American and mother-of-two, whose husband is gone from Monday to Friday; Shannon, mother-of-three and one-time resident of Salt Lake City, whose husband was setting up camp in Germany for what ended up being 9 long months; Petro, a Dubai-based South African and mother-of-one, whose husband is in the ship-building business and has had to travel a great deal; and so many more!!!

We've established that single-parenting and career-related separation is a reality for many families, the world-over, and that there's no single "secret recipe" for success. But imagine you finally found the perfect ratio, only for someone to come and take your whole friggin' recipe box?

Naturally while they're away, you swear that things will be so much easier when they're home. So when that time finally does come, you expect only feelings of relief. Any other emotions that sneak in are surpressed. Afterall, what kind of person actually has second-thoughts about their husband returning and the family once again being whole? Well, this kind of person.

But honestly, the transition must be equally difficult for the person coming home. To go from days filled solely with work, dinner, and quiet evenings spent studying or watching your favorite TV show to ones filled with toddler tantrums, sibling rivalry, diaper changing, and discussions about finances (translation: discovering your wife receives a minimum of one mail-order item per week) is a rude (re)awakening! I'd bet my bottom dollar that a tiny part of him is entertaining the prospect of a permanent overseas delegation.

So here are a few tips on how to get beyond the awkward stage.
1) Thank eachother for your respective roles. Try, "Thanks for being the breadwinner." or "Gee, you did a great job taking care of the kids in my absence!"

2) Be open to change and don't expect for things to be exactly the way they were before your spouse left. Allow new routines to form, and don't be insulted when s/he wants to play a role in a certain aspect of your home or family life. (Helpful personal example: "Of course I didn't get around to re-organizing the closet. I was single-parenting... but feel free to tackle that one now that you're home!")

3) As the Military-Transition website says, "Do not expect too much from your spouse. Try to simply enjoy and appreciate each others company. Remember you never know what the next day will bring so enjoy today as if it was your last day."

These are a few things that have helped me and, if you happen to be dealing with them, I hope that they help you, too! Please feel free to share this with other parents, and I certainly would love to read your comments!

~Liz

Meet My Franconia

2010-09-12T22:17:00.012+02:00

Wrapping up after a picnic in the meadow.

I love people, and I've found that there's no better way to get to know the people of a country than through its small towns. From Chinchilla, Australia, with it´s sweet semi-annual melon festival, to Bhaktapur, Nepal, with it's far-reaching rice fields, people in the countryside tend to be passionate about the place that they call home and share it proudly with foreigners who care enough to stop.

Here in the Upper Franconia region of Germany, things are no different, and today was a perfect example of my absoulte perfect outing. We hiked from our house, through the forest and over the hills, stopping in a large green pasture for a picnic.

Alexander naps at the "Kerwa"

Then, at a traditional German "Kirchweih" in the nearby village of Schellenberg, new friends were made. A traditional Franconian farmer made space for us at his table, and - indeed - there turned out to be far more to him than met the eye. How so? He spoke English and Spanish (both self-taught), and is considering selling his farm and relocating to Bolivia (he's already been there three times). After just an hour of exchanging stories and several "Prosts", we received an invitation to visit him at his farm home - a well restored sandstone-house heated only by an old wood burning oven - in the sleepy village of Tauchersreuth.

Next on the agenda, we stopped to visit a friend at her 15th century farm house here in Kleinsendelbach, letting the kids play around in the pumpkin patch and ride atop toy tractors. I'll be the first to admit that nothing's ever perfect, and we certainly had a tough time convincing the kids to leave this children't paradise to hike the rest of the home, but I suppose that that's to be expected! (I also ended up carrying Alexander on my shoulders for a portion of the walk, which - though it's less than ideal - is the nature of hiking with small children!)

A couple hours later we met our perfect ending. We enjoyed a home-cooked meal beneath rows of climbing hops at my in-laws place -- a traditional German pork roast with red-cabbage kraut and giant round potato dumplings. The aroma, which seeps out of the house and around the corner for all to envy, can be found in many German households on any given Sunday afternoon, and is enough to make my mouth water.

On days like this I rediscover what I love about Franconia, and why I've chosen to make this place home. And though outings with children always present their challenges, today we were all very much in our element, so the "small stuff" (i.e. the wasp that flew right down my shirt) was quickly forgotten. Thank you to farmer "Ziegler's Werner" and the tiny community of Schellenberg for making our afternoon a most intriguing one. Prost!

Want to recreate this hike? Head to the village of Kleinsendelbach. Once you're there, turn off of Erlangerstrasse, onto Kellerweg. Park at the end of Kellerweg, at the start of the forest. Follow the forest path for about 5-10 minutes, until it leads to a clearing. Pass the hunting stand built into the apple tree, continuing on along the foot path for another 15 minutes to the village of Schellenberg. In Schellenberg, follow the street as it winds down into the town center. Once you reach "Bergstrasse" be on the lookout for the "Gasthaus zum Schellenberg". If the weather's good you can enjoy a beer or "Radler" (a refreshing beer-lemonade mix) in the restaurant's biergarten, and on Wednesday evenings you can enjoy live performances by local musicians. To return to Kleinsendelbach follow the Bergstrasse downhill, walking through a thick forest canopy along the "Schellenbergstrasse" until you reach the chapel. Pass the chapel and several historic old farmsteads-"hofs", continuing along until you once again see the start of Kellerweg. I think you'll find this to be a terrific hike. Be sure to bring plenty of snacks and drinks, as small family-run restaurants in the German countryside have been known to have odd hours. Enjoy!

On Learning How to Stand Still

2010-09-10T06:53:00.002+02:00

My Grandfather had this thing where he could never stop working or sit still unless he was reading the newspaper, watching the evening news, or eating dinner. Apparently, that gene has been passed along, because that's exactly how I feel, only for me it's where travel is concerned.

Not traveling is one of the hardest things I've ever done, and every time I enter a non-traveling phase of my life, it requires a huge adjustment on my part. To shift from exploring and wandering the world to washing laundry, cleaning the kitchen, and refereeing arguments is like trying to pin down a 100-ton giant to check on his teeth.

"But this is good for you!"
"The hell, it is!"

It was in this state that my friend Jenny found me when she came to visit at the end of last month.

"Gosh, Liz, I remember you as being much more laid back while you were in Dubai. You really seemed to be enjoying life and parenting while you were there."

So what does that mean? That I am incapable of settling down? That I am, or - perhaps more importantly - my children are destined for a nomadic lifestyle?

Well, my husband thinks not. He thinks he is ready to "settle down" here, in the very area where he grew up. He thinks it will be good for us, and good for the children. And while I agree, I feel like I'm standing in the middle of Sydney without a road map. How on earth do I get to the harbour from here?

To distract myself from the task at hand, I embark on spontaneous mini-adventures on any given week.

Last week I packed up the kids and headed out to the American-style shopping outlet in Ingolstadt, and this week I participated in my very first book club meeting in the incredibly beautiful "Schoppershof" neighborhood of Nuremberg. What I'd come to find out is that Schoppershof is well known for it's princely manors, or "Herrensitze". What a lovely surprise!

The week before I was playing host, and doing a terrible job at it. What I quickly realized is that an unhappy hostess makes a poor hostess. Though I tried to create the illusion of everything being "hunky-dory", being a single parent while also in a state of non-travel meant that I was "not myself". Nevertheless, I tried to show her around, though Jenny the Sandcastle Girl is not your typical, take-me-to-the-place-where-the-Japanese-tourists-are kind of visitor. So we went to one of my favorite local playgrounds (on charming Bohlenplatz) in the nearby city of Erlangen, explored the indoor and outdoor play areas at Nuernberg's child-focused Tucherland, unwound in a traditional Franconion biergarten (we chose the historic Tucherhof biergarten, which also happens to have a great playground!), had some traditional German fare in Munich's lovely Marienplatz, and let the kids be kids at the fabulous visitor park at Munich's airport.

Though Alexander and Jenny's son, Adam, fought like gladiators when given the chance, I'm so thankful that they came out for a visit, and hope that I prove to be a more relaxed hostess, should she decide to one day return. In addition to the company, having visitors forced me to get (further) out of my element and try new things... hence Tucherland, Tucherhof, and visitor's park at Munich Airport, which I love! Now if I could just learn how to stand still...

From Zeeland to Bavaria, and Back Again

2010-08-18T08:07:00.007+02:00

Having traveled to Zeeland twice in the last month, I'm starting to see what the attraction is.

It came to me as I was lying on the cool ground after a jog along the tree-lined dikes. I stared up a the sky, watching the amazing speed of the clouds as they cleared and made way for the sun.

The saying goes that Zeeland has more days of sunshine than any other Dutch province. I'd guess that it's because Zeeland has more wind han any other province, which means the clouds and storm systems move out as quickly as they moved in. But from our two and a half years on the farm, I can tell you that the weather is not Zeeland's strength.

We often chuckled at German families vacationing there, driving their children onto the beach like military drill sergeant, with no regard to wind and rain. WE WILL HAVE FUN!!!

No, the weather is not this region's strong suit. What is is the combination of things you can do with your children when the weather is bad. There are so many, in fact, that you could not possibly do them all in a typical 1-2 week vacation. They can be pirates at Vlissingen's "Het Arsenaal", mingle with butterflies and reptiles at Berkenhof's Tropical Zoo and Butterfly Garden in the otherwise sleepy town of Kwaddendamme, play at any number of indoor play areas designed for all ages of children (Middelburg's Mini Mundi, Vlissingen's Bambini, S'Heer-Arendskerke's Klok 'Uus, etc), score a goal at Middleburg's new indoor soccer "theme park", and so much more! And that's just when the weather's bad. On the days when the sun peaks out from behind the clouds, there's the beautifully preserved cities of Middelburg, Goes, and Veere (my three favorites); beaches; steam train rides to the cute town of Hoedekenskerke; bicycle rides through the magical "Zak van Zuid Beveland (try the "Winkeltjes Pad" if you're interested in country stores with fresh cheeses, jams, and more!), wind surfing (I went with "Xschool" in Kamperland - you can read my blog post about it here!), and I could go on and on.

If you live in a place like Florida, South Africa's Garden Route, or the Aussie gem of Queensland, none of this may sound very appealing. However, for those of us in the "rest of the world", where the summer is nearly as unpredictable as the Springtime and Autumn, it's refreshing to know that there's a place that we can go with our children where we can be certain - irregardless of fickle weather - we're going to have one heck of a great time.

And for me that place, dear readers, is Zeeland.

Want to know more? Here's exactly what we chose to spend our days doing.

Eating mussels with friends. We cooked them in a tiny bit of water with chopped veggies (onions, celery, & carrots). Yum! (Note: Big mussel fans should try to coincide their visit with Yerseke's annual "Mussel Days"... which happen to be this coming weekend!)

Visiting nearby farms with the children - including one of my favorites, the "Kinderboederij" at the "Hollandsche Hoeve" in Goes

Letting the kids be kids at Goes' awesome Tom-Sawyer-style playground (be sure to go over the hill to find the water area with wooden rafts, boats, and a little sand island! It's also located at De Hollandsche Hoeve... which has the world's worst website, but is SO WORTH VISITING!!!)

Getting lost in one of my favorite gardens (in the whole world!) -- The Sequoiahof in the tiny town of Vlake.

Wandering through the tropical gardens of the Berkenhof Vlindertuin (mentioned above), then heading outdoors to walk through the hydrangeas, roses and bamboo to the outdoor children's play area. In my opinion, they have one of the best restaurants in ALL of Zeeland!!! The food and service are always GREAT! Treated myself and the kids to a hot fudge sunday or "Dames Blanche"

Sound great? It was! So get on your way already!

As for us, now back "home" in the German region of Bavaria now, the weather's is rather chilly and I had to make a fire to warm the living room last night. Perhaps somebody can tell me what there is to do with children here when the weather's bad? I'm all ears! Until then, I'll be planning our return to Zeeland, where a kid (and any adult companions) can be a kid! ;)

Kathmandu Chaos - Exploring the Boundaries of My Comfort Zone

2010-07-11T07:34:00.001+02:00

Convincing myself to sit down and write about our weekend in Nepal has been more difficult than I expected.

There is without a doubt a great deal of beauty in the country. the world heritage listed village of Bhaktapur, 45 minutes outside of Kathmandu is an excellent example. The time we spent there, wandering through temples and narrow cobblestone streets, certainly made a lasting impression on us. And some day I would love to visit the Chitwan forest (just a 30 minute flight from Kathmandu). Then there's Mount Everest, which we flew around on a tiny 20-passenger plane. What a trip!

But honestly, I hated Kathmandu. People there looked tired and hungry. Much of their cattle -often found in standing in busy intersections - looked starved. And emmaciated stray dogs lay motionless on every street corner. Indeed, every living thing seemed to struggle. And while streets were littered with trash, various motorized vehicles spewed black carbon bi-products into the air, causing many to wear surgical masks as a means of "protecting" themselves. Competing with the carbon monoxide is the smell of trash and waste, which comes in bouts, seeping into the taxi through open windows. If only that were all. In a somewhat unlucky twist of fate, a huge wave of muddy street water actually found it's way through the windows of our taxi, shocking our drunken taxi driver, and soaking everyone but Alex.

Streets are dotted with guard towers and barbed wire (a bitter reminder of Nepal's bitter Maoist-rebel past), and are overrun with old beaten up white toyotas "taxis" (without seat belts), families of four on motorcycles, frightened pedestrians (for whom there is little regard), and surprisingly street savvy animals. It's total chaos.

As icing on the proverbial cake, black-outs happen every day, food and water are often contaminated, people are advised to brush their teeth with bottled water, and I'd guess that if the cuisine's not spicy, it's not Nepalese.

For every nice person we met, there was a manipulative one out there, begging or coniving for money (though one could argue this is the case most everywhere). And most taxi rides have to be negotiated beforehand. In fact, outside of restaurants, nearly everything is negotiable.

Having said all of that, I'd still recommend Nepal for a visit. Why?
Because if we only choose to see the parts of the world with minimal suffering, we will never really know this world, or the people that call it home. And I'm a firm believer that beauty can be found everywhere... though sometimes it requires a trip outside of our personal comfort zones - in this case - a trip to Nepal.

I feel for the Nepali people. They have to fight just to stay alive. But their home, nestled in the verdant valley beneath incredible Mount Everest, certainly is a stunning one. Perhaps this is what makes it worth the fight.

Exploring Musandam and The "Fjords of Arabia"

2010-07-02T06:24:00.012+02:00

In some parts of the world two days' stay may not seem like much, but in the sweltering heat of The Sultanate of Oman, it's enough to move mountains. Okay, well maybe not to move them, but certainly to circumvent them, in our case via traditional Arabic Abra along the "Fjords of Arabia".

The company Khasab Tours, which has an office in the lobby of Khasab's main hotel (Golden Tulip Khasab), made this incredible journey possible. En route to stunning Telegraph Island our guide, young Mohammed, shared stories about children rushing to greet visitors on the shores of remote local fishing villages, and talked about the community at the tip of the Musandam Peninsula where residents speak a language which is neither English or Arabic. We anchored at Telegraph Island itself and were given plenty of time to snorkel amidst the tiger fish and swim ashore for photos. Since it's off season in Oman now, we were on our own out there for most of the morning, with the main passersby being Iranian smugglers in speedboats and local fishermen.

Many villages here are reachable only by boat and have no streets or cars, and children who wish to attend school must be sent away to Khasab's boarding school. Apparently, local women prefer to live in Khasab in the summer, returning to their remote fishing village for the winter. It's a fascinating lifestyle, and a taste of the Middle East that is hard to find in the ever-expanding metropolitain cities of the UAE.

Another great tribute to the culture of Musandam is Khasab's Fortress and Museum, which has a well done film and over a dozen displays showcasing local life and traditions. Even our four-year old loved it!

On the afternoon following our boat tour we wandered around the hotels' rocky shore, spotting dozens of crabs. Though we were out there for less than 20 minutes, we began to feel as though the heat was literally consuming us. The solution? Jumping into the pool fully clothed of course! Oh my was that fun! I went first and Lukas followed, and that single - slightly crazy- spontaneous act made me feel like a kid again. Perhaps it's Khasab's Fountain of Youth.

Along with the incredible sights, we witnessed much poverty, dozens of sick and seemingly stray goats and cats, and the level of tolerance towards "inappropriately dressed" western women is significantly lower than that of Dubai. But that's part of what makes it so appealing. That and the fact that, here, in this incredibly hot and arid region, life goes on. It's like seeing life on the moon, or at the very bottom of the sea. The odds are against them, yet I've seldom seen such persistance and determination. Indeed, just going outside in such a climate requires ambition, and this is something that the people of Musandam have no shortage of.

On Moving, Friendships, and Being "Responsible"

2010-06-16T17:04:00.009+02:00

I wrote a long and eloquent entry about how much I missed Zeeland, specifically my friends Angie, Ilonka, Carrie, and - of course - "Opa Claeijs" - but my internet connection disappeared and it was all lost.

The bottom line? Moving is hard and requires much patience; friendships aren't forged overnight. In my case, I know I have to stay strong - for my kids - but a life without true friends... friends that show up when you most need them, walking into your house unannounced, feels empty and shallow. While I'm very fortunate to have a support network established here in Germany, and that the kids are ecstatic to be closer to their Oma & Opa, I feel like I need more.

So there you have it. Not every day here in the Kraft household is bright and sunny. Traveling may be great fun, but moving just plain sucks.

Rather than impulsively traveling to Zeeland today with the dog and the kids, I opted to be responsible. Somebody has to water the plants, bake the cake for Lukas' school party on Sunday, clean the house, etc. But life feels like groundhog day lately. Get up, take the dog jogging, take Lukas to school, take care of things around the house, run a couple errands, get the kids fed, get the kids down for a nap, entertain the kids, get them fed again, get them in the bath and in bed, fall asleep, wake up again at 9:30 pm to water the garden, clean the kitchen, do a bit of writing and catch up on emails, chat with faraway friends, go to sleep after midnight, and repeat.

Only time will tell if this decision is one that I should be proud of, or whether it's a form of "selling out". According to many (including my parents-in-law) it's the right decision, but will it make me happy? And if I'm not happy, is it still possible to be a good mother to my children?

Well on that note, I'm off to prepare dinner. The show must go on...

German Farmer Meets Curiously Dressed American (Me!)

2010-06-14T01:10:00.015+02:00

Just outside of the Neunkirchen am Brand city limits, I stomped on the breaks, making a spontaneous stop at the roadside stand for some farm fresh strawberries. Though the berries looked wonderful, what really drew me here was an old German lady in her traditional farmer's apron and soft purple head kerchief. With her few remaining teeth she gave me a heart-warming half-smile as I stopped.

We went on to have a conversation in German about the beautiful unpaved country road I had crept along from the town of Langensendelbach to her tiny town of Ebersbach. I told her that I was from America and she said she knew, responding with the German equivalent of „it doesn't matter“ [referring to the fact that I was wearing a traditional German dirndl, or dress]. I explained that my husband is from the area and I was just meeting family for a Sunday lunch, adding that, “if I didn't wear it on Sundays it would just sit in my closet. What a shame!”

She is the last of her generation, which is why I was hoping to photograph her. It's no secret that in 20 years, when our kids are grown up, people at roadside stands will look more mainstream. What a pity! Though I told her she looked beautiful (and I meant it!), she asked that the photo not have her in it. Ducking behind the wooden door of her old stand, she waited until the I was finished, then shuffled over to my car to proudly present the kids with a couple strawberries each.

The berries were sweet and just firm enough, which explains why Lukas finished half of them in the 8 minutes it took us to get back to our home.

How wonderful. We got (intentionally) lost along a gorgeous country road, bought farm fresh strawberries, spoke with a charming local, met up with family, drank locally brewed beer, and ate a perfectly prepared Schnitzel with German Potato Salad. A fine adventure for a lazy Sunday afternoon in lovely Franconia, Germany. Wunderschön!

Culture-Shock for the Seemingly Un-shockable

2010-06-10T14:32:00.002+02:00

It's breakfast time. I grab a jar of jelly from the fridge, but pause to examine the hand-written date on the front. Only the year (of jarring) is ledgible, and that happens to be 2008. I open the jam for a smell, but my hostess sees me and looks slightly turned off by my gesture.

In German, I ask whether she has another jelly. She heads dutifully into the house, returning with three jams, which collectively hit the teak table with a soft thump. She adds in German, "I have nothing more to offer you.", before heading down into the garden.

As I eat my jam on a warm croissant, I am left wondering about this odd exchange. It's one of hundreds I've have had during our (on and off) time here in Germany, but since this particular discussion was with my mother-in-law (with whom I actually have an excellent relationship), it prompted a bit more reflection.

Cultural exchanges like these are inevitable. My German language skills may be decent and my husband a native, but that doesn't prevent misunderstandings from arising.

Here are a few additional examples of some confusion-causing incidents from my past:

-The tools can be toys conundrum: My 4-year-old son has a small and very sharp "children's saw" at his grandparents' house. He is also allowed to use hammers and nails while there and to help Opa mow the lawn. Bottom line: while I think he's too young to be handling tools like that, my in-laws think he's too young for television and any form of computer games. Fortunately in this case, I think the collision of cultures can help promote to a balanced upbringing.

-The "kids can do anything" philosophy vs. the "kids should be playing" philosophy. Back in the States, most people believe that - if their child is determined enough - s/he can move moutains. Case in point: Lukas wants to build a lemonade stand, and I am totally willing to help him in any way possible, given he find a worthy cause. Tobi, on the other hand, seems to have this internal statistical tool that makes decisions based on the probability that a given project will succeed (even with our kids). I can only guess that anything with an assigned probability below 20% is deemed unworthy of being performed. And besides, here in Germany, the common belief seems to be that young children shouldn't be attempting to do grown up things like read, write, or complete mathematical tasks. They should be playing! And yet, if your child says that they want to do something meaningful and charitable, shouldn't you encourage that?

-The "I don't know you, so why are you speaking to me" look. This is particularly hard to handle for U.S. expats, as back in the States people are sometimes overly friendly to passers-by. Undoubtedly, this contributes to the stereotype that Germans are "cold". I've even observed it at the Kindergarten level when picking Lukas up from school. Lukas seems to have inherited my need to greet people wherever we go, so it's only natural that he want to say "Tschüss" to those whom he considers to be his "friends" at school. Take, for example, the following exchange on the school playground. Lukas says, "Tschüss Analina, Tschüss Analina, Analina... TSCHÜSS!" And little Analina acts as though she doesn't hear us until the last attempt, at which point she looks directly at Lukas with a blank stare. A minute later, inside of the school, the same thing happens with a boy from Lukas' class, but his mother is there and prompts him to say "Tschüss" back by the third try. Whether it's a refusal to talk to someone you don't consider a friend or a case of kids from the countryside resisting that which is different and/or foreign will remain a mystery, but I certainly do find it interesting!

When all is said and done, it's our differences that make the world interesting. Afterall, if life abroad was the same as life at "home" what good would it do us to travel? And, since my views have changed tremendously since we've begun to travel, I'm certain that there are are many incredible lessons that we can learn from one another, but none more important than that of tolerance.

Bye, Bye Papa - Hello Ice Cream!

2010-05-31T16:33:00.007+02:00

Sometimes in life - at least on this journey of ours - things don't go exactly as planned. Today, we had to say goodbye to Papa. We'll see him in a few weeks' time, this time in Dubai, but it's still hard to go our separate ways.

Believe me, I am truly terrible at goodbyes, but I know that my being emotional will only prompt the boys to do the same. Today, we said goodbye in a shopping mall (was that really my idea?), and despite my best efforts, I cried for a couple minutes. I don't think Lukas noticed it, but I'm sure a couple of passers-by did. Not that that matters. As I'm quietly snuffing and sniffling, I hear snippets of what Lukas is cheerily saying, "...we're a family together again..." and "...but I have the best Mama and Papa in the world..." which, of course, made it even harder for me to put a stop to the tears.

Anyhoo, here are my tips for keeping everybody's chin up when it's time to say goodbye.
1) Do something fun during goodbyes. Last time we drove to The Netherlands, and this time we headed off to get some ice cream after Papa left. After we left the mall, I took Lukas to the store to pick out a movie (and snack) that we could watch together this afternoon.
2) Make sure you have lots of distractions planned throughout the period that Mama and/or Papa are gone. In our case, I want to bring the kids to the zoo, take Lukas to the movies without his little brother, possibly go to The Netherlands for a long weekend, go swimming, etc.
3) When things are tough, make a care package for the person that has left. We haven't done this yet, but are definitely thinking about it (I can't say too much, otherwise we'll spoil the surprise for Papa). :)
4) Surround yourself and your children with people that care. Whether it's Grandmas and Grandpas, Aunts and Uncles, or just special friends, knowing that the are loved makes all the difference when the going gets tough.

And above all, shower them with your love and affection and remember that, this too, shall pass.

Meet me at the "Berch" - A Traditional Bavarian Beer Festival

2010-05-26T22:48:00.007+02:00

As yet another round of "Ein PrOOOO-sit, ein Pro-OH-sit der Gemüt-lich-keit, ein PrOOOsit, ein Pro-OH-sit der GemÜT-lich-keit!" rang out (heard here on this Oktoberfest clip), I raised my absurdly heavy ceramic beer krug into the air at an awkward angle, narrowly avoiding some random head as I swayed with dozens of other shoulders to the melody.

It was our "date night" at the Erlangen Bergkirchweih and Tobi and I would meet a couple people, drink a beer, and get swept along the floor of the beer festival like two fish in a current before running into a few more friends. Along the way, the occasional man (or woman) would steal a glance at my German-style bustier, while other times I swear they were certain that I was a foreigner dressed in traditional clothes. "Is it that obvious?", I wondered.

Yes, I wore a "dirndl" and Tobi wore his "lederhosen". And the truth is, it doesn't matter that I'm a foreigner. Let's just say that it's the equivalent of a non-American wearing red, white, and blue on the fourth of July. The more the merrier, right? :)

Throughout the evening we drank beer and "radlers" (a beer / lemonade mixture that allows you to stay vertical in spite of the massive 1-liter krugs), listened to plenty of great cover bands, met friends, ate greasy Franconian food, and just enjoyed the general ambiance of the "Berch". Afterall, Oktoberfest may be wild and famous, but only the Bergkirchweih and the nearby "Annafest" take place on a hill at the center of a beautiful old city, dotted with cave-like beer cellars that are hundreds of years old, and complete with wooden tables and benches placed - not solely in tents - but also in the open air, set amongst hundreds of old chestnut trees. The German biergarten in all its glory.

Perhaps our Dutch friends Angie and Harold said it best when they described the Erlangen Bergkirchweih as "gezellig". I don't think that there's a good word for this in either the German or English language. You can only imagine...

So grab your dirndl's and lederhosen, and if you want to go all-out pack a picnic lunch - or German "Brotzeit" - complete with your favorite little table cloth. Then - you guessed it - meet me down at the "Berch". Here in Erlangen, that's the place to be for 11-days of the year, and I wouldn't have it any other way. Prost!

Growing Roots in Franconia, Germany

2010-05-13T23:02:00.006+02:00

Though I haven't been blogging much, there have been many adventures to share here at our new home in Franconia, Germany. Having said that, my primary focus right now is on making this place a real "home", which - in addition to unpacking - has meant starting the boys in our local Kindergarten (we're in week 2) and our focusing on making friends both here in the neighborhood and in nearby villages.

The major hurdle is that Tobi is in Dubai and I am here, and we're not sure how long we'll have to go on like this. I've always been one of those moms that swore that she'd never put herself into a single parenting situation. I thought that I was too weak, and perhaps I was. But that was then and this is now. We have our routine and, while the kids certainly miss their Papa, they're really thriving here and seem to enjoy the renewed predictability of our days and nights.

One major highlight has been weekly hikes with the Kindergarten, which is so, so fun (surprisingly so!). I volunteered to tag along, and we've found nests (Lukas' discovery!), a baby bird (my find), snails (Lukas again), mushrooms, caves, beautiful blooming cherry trees, and so much more!

So if there's anything I can leave you with as we go into this weekend it's travel, yes. But be grounded. Have a home. Grow roots. Explore parts of yourself that you've been neglecting. That's a journey in and of itself. And a very important one, at that.

Living in Europe - Yep, Parental Guidance Required!

2010-05-01T22:34:00.008+02:00

Too often, English lyrics lose all meaning in non English-speaking countries. As an expat, it only becomes an issue when your 4-year-old (or any aged child, for that matter), fluent in English, begins inquiring about the meaning of certain phrases.

The Netherlands is a prime example of this trend. Case in point: It's Queen's Day, a day meant to commemorate the Queen and all her years of service (30 this time around, and she 's here in Zeeland to celebrate!). The boys and I are in Oudelande visiting with friends when, at a gathering of young and old, two averagely attractive teenage girls get up to perform to:

"Forget about your boyfriend and meet me at the hotel room, you can bring your girlfriends and meet me at the hotel room. We at the hotel, motel, holiday inn. She like that freaky stuff, 2 in the oh! and 1 in the ah!, that kinky stuff, you nasty, but I like your type and like TI its whatever you like. Bring your girls its whatever tonight, your man just left, i'm the plumber tonight, i'll check your pipes, oh, you the healthy type. Well, here goes some egg whites. Now gimme that sweet, that nasty that gushy stuff, let me tell you what we gon do. 2, plus 2, i'm gon undress you. Then we're gonna go 3 and 3 you gon' undress me. Then we're gon' go 4 and 4, we gon' freak some more..."

LUKAS: "Mama, what are they saying?"
ME: "Get your girlfriend and meet me in the hotel room."
LUKAS: "Oh, that's great idea!"
ME: [Not sure what to say to that. I laugh uncomfortably and change the subject.]

My, how the world is changing. Teenagers chat nonchalantly in front of younger kids (or their parents!), saying "Fuck it". A 15-year-old cheerily working a small-town-fair-style game stands wears an Anarchy shirt adorned with the phrases "Punk's not dead" and "Fuck the system".

Heck, maybe Europe has even corrupted me. Afterall, I did breast-feed in public and visit plenty of European saunas (nude) with complete strangers. [fecetious grin.]

Regardless of whether or not the sky is falling in this corner of Europe, in my mind Zeeland - specifically my almost-adopted home of Oudelande - remains one of the best places in the world to raise kids... just don't teach them any English. ;)

The Real Dubai - Beyond Shopping Malls and Skyscrapers

2010-04-21T07:07:00.004+02:00

"Freedom loses its value when it imposes upon the freedom of others."
We talked about much over lunch at the Sheikh Mohammed Center for Cultural Understanding (or SMCCU), but this is the quote that resonated most with me.

Our hosts for the afternoon - the staff (a male female duo) from Dubai's SMCCU - were surprisingly tolerant. An Italian woman sat spread eagle throughout the lunch, while some crazy American woman (ehem) asked questions about the shiite practice of Mu'tah, or one-night "marriages" (not realizing that the topic of sex is taboo in the arabic world). Dressed in traditional arabic abas, or robes, they patiently answered question after question and talked openly about their beliefs.

Throughout the discussion, rich flavors permeated the food and coffee, and there were hints of saffron, cardamom, turmeric and thyme infused in each dish of the buffet-stlye meal (apparently prepared by one of the Emiratie staff's Grandmas). We feasted on dates, fish, lamb and rice, then washed down the meal with tea served from a silver Alladin's Lamp-style teapot.

So if you're searching for something more than shopping malls and waterparks in this city of high rises, look no farther. The Center for Cultural Understanding is the closest a total stranger can come to being invited into an Emiratie's home, and it taught me much about Emirate, Arabic, and Muslim culture, all of which I knew very little about. We have much to learn from eachother, and in a single afternoon our well-traveled arabic hosts graciously demonstrated that the more we learn about the world around us, the more tolerant - and peaceful - we become.

Pakistani Captain or Angel in Disguise?

2010-04-06T22:34:00.012+02:00

I love days like this. Days where my 4 year old begs to stop in a park, so he can take his shoes off and dash up to some friendly looking Indian men for a conversation.

"What'd you tell them?" I asked after he spent a quarter of an hour showing them his personal karate moves and talking with them about god knows what.

"I told them I was Indian!" he said.

I laughed, remembering them repeatedly looking over with a wide smile. Now I knew why. Lukas went on, adding, "Yeah, and that I have all these arrows on my back!"

I love that he makes friends wherever he goes. Just like his Mama when she was little (at the age of 6 I brought home a "Big friend Mary", an elderly neighbor who I quickly befriended.)

So there was that, and then there was the boat incident. I needed a taxi, and a passerby assured me that I would find one if I just walked along the sidewalk bordering the river for some minutes. I did just that, and - still seeing no sign of a taxi - called the cab company. Having no real idea where to tell them to come, I asked the next available person - an older gentleman from the Far East with dark, paan-stained teeth on the deck of a nearby yacht. "Near the Saudi Consulate!" he exclaimed is somewhat broken English. When the taxi couldn't find us he took the phone, impatiently explaining in his Pakistani mother tongue how the taxi could reach us. In the meantime, he invited us to have a seat on his boss' vacant yacht, one of two heirs to Dubai's throne. We had been outside in the heat for hours (exploring my favorite corner of Dubai - the historic arabic gem known as the Al Bastakiya area) and were drenched. Still I was hesitant, but he was adamant that we wait on board, and the children needed no convincing whatsoever. For a moment we sat in the plastic chairs that he quickly provided, peering in at the smooth leather interior of the boat's entertaining area. But not five minutes had passed before our Pakistani friend walked us out to the curbside, waving down the taxi as it approached, helping Lukas inside before packing the stroller into the trunk for us.

I believe that there are angels among us, and today he took the form of a very thoughtful Pakistani man, Captain of the Prince's boat.

For days like this - and people like him - I am so very thankful.

Dune Bashing (with Kids!) in the Arabian Desert

2010-04-02T20:10:00.015+02:00

"Mama, he's a really bad driver!" shouted our four-year-old, indignantly. I looked at our guide, half expecting a rebuttal. His back was still turned to us, the word "American" inscribed on his kacky-colored Tshirt, snug fitting across his broad back. The massive weight of the Land Cruiser caused it to drift swiftly down the slippery sand dunes, and my stomach began to churn.

Fortunately, there were several reasons that I could not afford to get carsick. For starters, I had just laughed at a local woman for getting carsick at the very start of her dune bashing expedition. But, more importantly, I knew that Lukas was watching my every move. If Mama is scared, Lukas is scared. So nevermind the bloody head injury that we had just seen a Quad driver incur on these dunes. Or the fact that this was the first Land Cruiser I had ever been in that was equipped with a roll cage. Or the fact that the driver seemed intent on driving on the narrow ridges of the highest dunes; crisp, wind-formed peaks which would have given way beneath my feet (much less the tonage of a massive steel vehicle). None of that mattered. We made a decision to do this and now was our chance to make most of it.

While Lukas was on the verge of tears, begging me to hold his head just a little bit firmer, 19-month-old Alex was cooly licking his orange-flavored popsicle, giggling at the summit of each dune, and countering each attempt to pull him closer with a giant WHACK!.

Day and night. They couldn't be more different.

We arrived at the camp a little shaken up (save for Alex, who probably wanted to have another go), but otherwise unscathed. Camel rides, henna tattoos, belly dancing, and arabic food all awaited us, and the boys took to the cool desert sand like a giant sandbox, pausing only long enough to munch on some lamb kabobs and accompanying Middle Eastern dishes before returning to their digging and sand-relocating schemes.

Beautiful and powdery as it was, the crimson sand of the Rub' al Khali, or "Empty Quarter" got me thinking. Yes it's cool at the surface, but dig your toes a little deeper and you'll find an unexpected warmth. The same is true of the locals here in Dubai, several of whom invited me to sit on their carpet and share a cup of their arabic coffee. They don't all hate Americans, nor do they hate women. And if you can get beyond their white and black robes, you'll find many muslims to be some of the nicest people you'll ever come to know.

So if you're looking for a way to make your journey (or your life, for that matter!) all the more memorable, try disposing of any preconceived notions or generalizations. Because, as we learned on the dunes, you can either make the most of each experience, or let intollerance and fear consume you. Whether or not your in the drivers' seat -- as my husband likes to say, "Life's all about decisions". Make yours count.

No, that's NOT Panera! And other Dubai mishaps...

2010-03-28T09:04:00.013+02:00

Last night we drove by the world's tallest building, struggling to point it out to Lukas in its utter darkness. Only later would we discover that the 206-story high Burj Khalifa was one of many Dubai skyscrapers switching lights off in recognition of the 3rd annual Earth Hour.

We certainly have an interesting answer for the question, "Where were you on Earth Hour 2010?"

But wait. You may be wondering what we're doing in Dubai, having written so often about "settling down" in Germany - following a number of years in The Netherlands and South Africa. Well, Tobi (my "better" half) is transitioning from a department that requires much travel, and one that requires considerably less travel. And until that transition is complete (hopefully in a couple months' time), his manager can request that he go anywhere, anytime. That anywhere and anytime is currently 2 months in Dubai. Having just spent a month in the U.S. without Tobi, the boys miss their Papa so much, so this seemed like the most logical solution. For a few weeks we're a big happy family - eating together, shopping together, and playing together - here in the Middle East.

Don't get me wrong, there are much worse places to spend three weeks. We're in a part of Dubai called the Jumeira Beach Residence, and it is a very desirable location... especially for expats. I have never seen so many expat moms living in one location. There are so many, in fact, that it makes meeting them and speaking with them all the more challenging. Here's an example. If I'm standing next to another expat with a young toddler in the grocery store, suddenly we're not the only people that share the same lifestyle... there are a zillion of us. Why should she talk to me? Sometimes I initiate a conversation, but other times (especially if there's a group of moms), it can be intimidating. Perhaps the most odd quality of these moms is the fact that they're usually accompanied by their nanny. Often, the nanny is walking or playing with the child, going down the slide or pushing the bike, and the mom is walking with a friend and chatting away. Am I on another planet? These same children typically attend daycare. So the Mom's are mostly "stay-at-home" moms, but the kids attend daycare, and when they're not at the nursery, they're looked after by a live-in nanny. Isn't that just a little mind boggling? I don't know whether to be jealous or saddened by this trend in Dubai.

But expat Moms, if you're moving to Dubai, everything you need is right here at Jumeira Beach Residence (or "JBR"). The beach, pools, playgrounds, daycares, grocery stores, Starbucks (FOUR to be exact), restaurants... all just outside the front door. It's pretty awesome.

And there is so much to do here. So far we've watched women in burqas roll down the ski slopes of Mall of the Emirates in a giant plastic ball, cruised down Dubai Creek on a traditional Dhow boat (nice, but I'd opt for something less group-oriented and more intimate next time), splashed in the ultra warm waters of the Persian Gulf, sipped on cool drinks at the Hilton Jumeira Beach swim-up bar (with the swim-up bar being a lifetime goal of mine that I can now check off the list), and so much more. This weekend we'll do a guided tour of Dubai, some "dune bashing", and a desert safari.

The downside of all this? If you thought Europe was expensive, you ain't seen nothing yet. Dubai is ridiculous. Vitamins for the kids and I (multivitamins and a kids Omega) would have run me US$150. Generally speaking, a simple lunch for two at an average restaurant runs about US$35. And we went to something that looked like a Panera yesterday, but that was so misleading. $68 later, we decided it was not exactly like Panera, afterall. And though there may be grocery stores out there that are reasonable, and there may be some foods at those stores that are not outrageous, I can't seem to get out of there spending less than $100 (for two very simple meals and one pack of diapers). Fortunately, in our case, the company is paying for lodging, otherwise doing two vacations back-to-back would be catastrophic.

But we don't take our money to our grave with us, and every new place that we experience enriches our lives in one way or another. The world is an amazing place, and traveling it with children is not a burden, but a privilege. I see things that I never would have seen, and I take time to appreciate the little things. And we can never take enough photos. Afterall, the only way that they'll remember much of this is through pictures. And these are memories to savor for a lifetime.

"Proudly American" (In the Middle East)

2010-03-27T10:49:00.004+01:00

Two days ago I saw a man walking around Dubai with a Tshirt that read "Proudly American". Now, I'm all for being proud of who you are, but is it necessary to flaunt it? The Queen of England is probably pretty proud to be Queen, as is the President of the United States, but something tells me that they don't flaunt it on a Hanes Tshirt when they go to a G8 Summit.

Yes, it's great to be an American. Though there are plenty of people in the world who hate us (there are ignorant, hate-filled people in every country), most people love us, and a heck of a lot of people would do anything just to be in our shoes. In reality, wearing something that says "Proudly American" is like saying, "I'm proud to from a wealthy country where most people afford to eat" or "I'm proud to live in a country that isn't currently slaughtering those protesting." Why go there?

Many people are stuck in situations that they're not proud of. They'd do anything to change their circumstances, but their government or monetary situation doesn't allow for such changes. Does an Iranian Doctor who hasn't been able to get a visa in America but wants desperately to get his family out of harms way really need to see a man walking around in a "Proudly American" Tshirt? Probably not. Be proud, but don't rub salt in the wounds of those that are suffering (and know that they surround us). Especially when traveling, show compassion and be sensitive to the suffering in the world.

Because it's one thing to wear a gold medal around the Olympic Village, but to wear it on the outside or - even worse - to a fellow athlete's home, is the ultimate statement of vanity. And is that really an attractive trait in a nationality?

Pictured left: An Iranian college student comes over to play with the children. "So you're American!" she said. She's studying in London and struggling with the decision to go home or stay abroad. How can she best help her fellow Iranians? Things are bad at home, and with so many young people being slaughtered, it's hard to maintain hope.

Walk in My Shoes - Charming Franconia

2010-03-22T09:12:00.005+01:00

CNNs iReport recently came up with a fabulous idea. People all over the world should take a camera along with them the next time they go on one of their favorite walks, then submit the video footage to the iReport website. That's just what I did yesterday. Won't you join me on my 1-minute stroll through the old town center of Neunkirchen am Brand, Germany?

Click here to watch the video (you'll be taken to the CNN iReport website): http://www.ireport.com/docs/DOC-423066

Safe and happy travels!
~Liz

Relocation Made Simple - Get Yourself Out There!!!

2010-03-19T08:58:00.011+01:00

It's that time again. We've just relocated from The Netherlands to Bavaria, Germany, and my first matter of business whenever I move to a new place - be it the next state or another country - is to meet as many people as I can. And - although we've lived in this little corner of the world before - meeting other people who have recently relocated has always proved invaluable in the settling-in process. Why? Well, who can better tell you about the best schools, banks, gyms, babysitters, etc.? They've been there, done that, and there's no reason to re-invent the wheel!

Here in Franconia there's a group called the International Women's Group and - get this - many of the women in that group are the spouses of roaming Siemens employees... talk about a match made in heaven! :)

I joined some of these women yesterday in the cobblestone-lined streets of nearby Herzogenaurach. We lunched at the the 360-year-old "Gasthaus zum Roten Ochsen", one of a handful of lobsided half-timbered houses on the city's oddly asymmetrical medieval market square, before heading over the the city museum, or "Stadtmuseum", to admire local art that in the form of quilts. Each quilt told a story, and we were fortunate enough to take part in a tour by one of the regions more renowned quilters - swiss born Anita Leutwiler (author of the very sweet children's book "Excuse me, is this India?"). Many of the exhibited quilts came alive as she explained the mediums that the artists had to work with and what some were thinking as they lovingly sewed each square.

The exhibit, which continues until March 21st, has rekindled my love of quilts and quilting. Fortunately for me, the President of the IWG actually offers private quilting lessons. If quilting isn't your thing, there are also Scrapbooking groups, book clubs, and coffee mornings. If you're in the area, check it out, and if not, find something similar in your neck of the woods! Afterall, it's all about making yourself at home, wherever you are.

Purgatory on a Plane - Baby Vomit, Toilet Sweater, Urine Jacket, and More

2010-03-10T10:49:00.002+01:00

If you've been following my blog for a while, you know that I generally try to keep it pretty grounded. And when we're traveling, for every wonderfully memorable moment we have, there is a "How-Did-I-Get-Myself-Into-This?" moment to balance it out. Yin and Yang.

Saturday's return flight to Europe was one of the latter. In retrospect, it's so bad that it's funny. Alex threw up all himself and me, soaking his jeans and my own. I realized I hadn't packed any clothes for him, despite me knowing that he had been sick... much less for myself. When I took him in the tiny in-flight bathroom to put the lucky single pair of replacement pants on him - Lukas' little jogging pants - his sweater (which was my only replacement top for him) fell in the toilet. As if that weren't enough, my jacket then fell into the urine puddle on the floor. Later, while I was trying to get some sleep (an hour of the 9-hour nighttime flight), my dress caught on something and tore (remember, I have no pants under it at this point, because they're soaked with throw up). And my glasses broke. No joke.

Like I said, that particular leg of our 1-month journey was so bad it was funny. But, almost perversely, we'll do it all again in a heartbeat. Because the truth is that traveling is so very worth it. More often than not, the memorable moments outweigh the bad, exacerbating our unquenchable thirst, and our ever-wandering nature.

To Share Florida is to Love Florida

2010-03-04T22:12:00.008+01:00

The drooping spanish moss, the seemingly melancholy shade of those stunning Florida-sunsets... Everything seemed to be screaming, "Why would you want to go anywhere -- just STAY awhile!"

Though I've been inexcusably absent from the blogosphere, we've made up for it in the amount that we've seen and done over the past two weeks. We met Mickey Mouse and Goofy, went on an African-style safari Disney's Animal Kingdom, hugged the real-life-Grinch at Universal Studios, and watched a volcano rupture at Jimmy Buffet's Margaritaville. We also sampled some fine Southern "swamp cabbage" (aka "Heart of Palm"), introduced Lukas to clogging & rodeos, ate dinner in the midst of an indoor-thunderstorm at the Rainforest Café, sipped on tropical drinks beside the dolphins at Sebastian Inlet, revisited the town where Tobi and I were married and Lukas was born and even played with some of his little Floridian friends. Perhaps most importantly, we were fortunate enough to be able to spend lots of quality time with Aunties, Uncles, sisters, Grandma (or the boys' Great Gramother), and "Ga-Ga" (the name the boys have chosen for my mom). From watching the sun rise and set and ocean tides roll in and out -- to witnessing osprey swooping, owls prowling, racoons scavenging, armadillos scantering, and deer grazing -- every moment has been truly memorable, and we've been so blessed.

I love Florida, and - thanks to these three incredible weeks here - I know that our boys share my love for this special place, a place that I will always call home.

Wingin' It (With Family) In West Orlando

2010-02-19T17:08:00.004+01:00

When you live away from home, and begin the process of planning a return trip, you have all of these grand ideas of what you could see and do while you're there. Then you arrive, and most plans fall to pieces. Though we have spent some time dining out at some fun Central Florida restaurants (Gabriel's sub shop, Bonefish Grill, and Carrerra's Italian Eatery) and sipping wine on cool, crisp wine beneath the stars in my Aunt's Jacuzzi, we've also found ourselves at the doctor with my Grandmother, and - the following day - taking her to a nearby retirement home for ballroom dancing.

Vacation? I think not. But we're so fortunate to be able to be here for my family (thank you to Jackie, Kevin, Tyler, and Jackson, for your wonderful hospitality this week!) -- albeit for a very short time. Here are some photos of latest adventures. If you're somewhere cold, perhaps you can enjoy Florida vicariously!

Greetings from the Sunshine State, where - this week - the sun has made an appearance for 6 out of 7 fabulous days!

~Liz

North Florida's Best Kept Secrets

2010-02-16T17:53:00.001+01:00

I lived in Florida for more than twenty years growing up, and I had plenty of preconceived notions of the place that I called home. Yet, I never noticed the beautiful red blooms of the "nosie trees" in the Spring. I never visited the beaches in North Florida. And I had no idea that there were a great deal of incredible old Plantations open to visitors.

Plantations are places where many attrocities took place in the time of slavery. But, like concentration camps, if we divert our attention, thinking only happy thoughts, we will only see half of the picture. We will never know a place for what it is, until we look at where it has come from. Examining the roots - and core - of a tree give us a much better idea of what it has been through over the years. The same is true of places.

The Kingsley Plantation of North Florida was run by a free black woman and her slave-driving husband. And in addition to it's sad, but rich history, it's beautiful beyond words. It's a little piece of old Florida, set on the Timucuan Preserve, amidst many miles of wetlands and acres and acres of gorgeous old oak trees. It's so pristine that it looks as though it could have been the setting for an old tarzan movie.

Needless to say, I was in heaven. We toured remnants of century-old coquina slave quarters, completed the park's Junior Ranger program, and lost all control in their souvenir/book shop.

And that was just a tiny part of our day. We spent some time on Jacksonville's sandy white beaches, ate crab legs at Joe's crab shack, and got super silly on the deck of Joe's Crab Shack as we joined dozens of strangers in a little line dance. What a fun day!

Thanks to my Aunt Beth, Uncle Jim, and cousins Austin and Kathryn for a wonderful weekend, none of which would have been possible without my sister Jessie (who picked us up from the airport and brought us up to Jacksonville). We loved every minute of it. From bouncing around on your oversized trampoline, to swinging in your hamock and walking through your neighborhood (yes, neighborhood!) wetlands. So, so much fun.

On Becoming a Junior Ranger (in Aztec, New Mexico)

2010-02-10T17:19:00.005+01:00

"As a Junior Ranger, I pledge to explore, learn about, and protect all national parks, today and in the future."

This was the pledge that Lukas took at the Aztec Ruins National Monument with Ranger Connie yesterday afternoon. He was so proud of himself, and one of the first things to come out of his mouth was, "Wait until Grandma and Grandpa see this! They're going to love it!"

At just four years old, his interest in the ruins surprised me a bit, but his refusal to walk away from the far outdated introductory film really threw me for a loop!

Though both kids loved the "Great Kiva", their favorite part was the 700 yard trail that led us through the West Ruin, an excavated great house that once boasted more than 400 interconnected rooms built around an open plaza. Many rooms contain the original pine, spruce and aspen beams hauled from distant mountains (without horses!) and its massive sandstone walls tower over 30 feet!

According to Outdoor.com, the Aztec community was concentrated on and below a terrace overlooking the Animas River. Built and used over a 200-year period, it is "the largest ancestral Pueblo community in the Animas River valley.

And, as for Lukas, this may have been his first Junior Ranger experience, but it certainly won't be his last. Kudos to the National Parks Service for coming up with a exciting new way for children to get involved and learn about their environment! To learn more about the initiative, visit the NPS website. You're kids will thank you! :)

I'll end with a quote from Lukas' Junior Ranger worksheet, where they asked children to "tell an adult one way you can help take care of places like Aztec Ruins".

Lukas solution? To "find special people that can use sticky glue to fix it for the Indians."
And that, dear readers, was your sneak peak inside the mind of a wandering four-year-old.

Friendship on the Farm - A True Story of Life on the "Boerderij"

2010-02-01T23:44:00.023+01:00

For months she racked her brain, searching for something meaningful to write about the place. Two and a half years had passed since she called Oudelande home, and she had met a great many kind people, and seen countless incredible places and things along the way.

The house had inspired her a great many times. Though it was not old for Dutch standards, it certainly was grand, and what it lacked in age it made up for in character, largely in the form of it's rambling old brick barn, its roof characteristically thatched, air thick with the scent of horses.

But the time would come for her to leave the house, this she knew. And there would certainly be tears.

When a mere week remained, they stood at the countertop in silence, each with a knife in hand; rabbit juices dripping from their fingers. Meticulously, they cut deeper into the hare (which he had hunted in neighboring fields), and as she considered which meat to use for the stew and which to save for the dog, he puzzled at the size - and contents - of the dog's pile. Looking out to the grazing pastures and berry bushes, she thought of the task at hand, and how farm life had changed her. They'd almost certainly miss eachother, but what sense did it make to talk about it?

By all accounts, their friendship was an unlikely one. She was half his age, lazy by his standards, and made no effort to speak his language. He was twice her age, fed her dog too many hunting scraps, and appeared at the house nearly every day, invited or not.

But they shared a love for the house (not to mention her dog, who accompanied him on daily walks through the orchards). And it was the house of his childhood -- indeed, she envied him for that. He told stories of the house in the Second World War, stories of riding his father's huge Belgian work horses bare-back, and stories of the house in the flood of 1953.

Every day they exchanged smiles through the old, oversized windows of the farm house. And she grew quite fond of him. The reasons were many - she missed her Grandfather and had never really had a father - but that was all irrelevant.

Years were reduced to months, months to days, and days to hours. Goodbyes were always painfully emotional, and she dreaded leaving.

He saw that she was sad and hated it, just as he would the sadness in his own daughter's eyes. She tried to tell herself that she was so very lucky to have had time on the farm, a life in that house, and a landlord that would become a dear friend. And she was.

So she sat on the bathroom floor, awkwardly, writing about the emotions that had begun to overcome her, and once again they passed, like the ebb and flow of the tide. At last, she could focus on the task at hand -- packing all that had accumulated - all that had made her life so comfortable - over the past two years. Her final day in Zeeland lay ahead of her; she'd need all of her strength just to get through it.

She mused that perhaps Donna Hedges said it best when she wrote, "Having a place to go - is a home. Having someone to love - is a family."

"Yes, he's family" she reasoned, "and family is forever."

Adventures in Oudelande

2010-01-15T11:05:00.007+01:00

With us gearing up for our move to Germany, it's no wonder that the radius of our recent adventures here in The Netherlands has shrunk considerably. But the spirit of exploration is like an unquenchable thirst, and you need not travel far to discover your own personal fata morgana.

There have been a couple days this week where we've woken up to the sound of distant fohorns, and although it's been quite misty, Monday was a perfect day for ice skating with friends and, yesterday, the sun came out just long enough for us to take our very last bike ride through the Zeeland countryside. Our bikes will be packed up on a semi-truck Monday and transported down to Germany but, like us, they'll probably long to explore the picturesque Zeeland countryside... and, with a little luck, we'll all be back soon enough.

Adventures at "home"; sometimes they make the fondest memories.

Passports with Purpose Winner

2010-01-13T07:59:00.001+01:00

The Passports with Purpose initiative came to a close in December, and I'm happy to announce Dave Fox, of Seattle, Washington (founder of http://www.traveljournaling.com/) as the winner of the Wanderlust Int'l Subscription (congrats, Dave - this is my all-time favorite travel publication and I know you'll love it!). Dave will also receive a copy of Wanderlust's "Visions of Wanderlust 3".

This year's fundraiser was so successful that the goal was doubled after a few short days to accomodate the huge influx of generous donations. By it's end, $26,000 was raised, and all proceeds will go towards the construction of a school in Cambodia (to be completed in June), with the additional funds providing the kids that attend with a school nurse, clean water, and at least one complete meal a day.

I'm proud to have been involved in this cause and would love to be present at the ribbon cutting ceremony this summer. Since my husband promised me one trip this year without kids... maybe it'll actually happen! For now, thanks again to everyone who contribtuted. If you're one of the people who helped us meet this goal, consider sending a post card with your photo to Passports with Purpose, P.O. Box 16102, Seattle WA 98116. Why? The plan is to bring along pictures from every person who donated, helping the students connect with those involved. Post cards will be laminated so that the students can enjoy them, and may be used in slideshows or videos about the project well.

And if you didn't participate in 2009, consider getting involved this year, either through blogging or donations. Until then, thanks again, and I wish you all the best for 2010!

~Liz

The Land of Efteling and "Oud en Nieuw"

2009-12-31T12:46:00.006+01:00

The period between Christmas and New Years here in The Netherlands can be quiet and peaceful, giving one time for reflection. It can also be crowded and chaotic, especially when a day of good weather, school holidays, and the brief seasonal opening of the Efteling Theme Park fall on one particular day.

Though it took us 45 minutes more to get into the actual park, a merry feeling permeated it, and paths were adorned with lights and trimmed in snow and icicles (both real and fake). Street performers danced for us when we wound up their oversized music-box, and Cirque du Soleil-like acrobats dangled precociously from the towering thatched-roof ceiling of the "House of the Five Senses". We walked through the "Sprookjesbos", feeling as though we were a part of the fairytales themselves, and sipped on hot "Chocomel". It was a special day indeed, especially considering that it may well be the only children's park in the world were one might smell marijuana (or what one imagines marijuana to smell like [she writes, smirking] ) drifting from a passerby.

But now it's just another milestone of 2009, and as we prepare to embark on the grand adventure of 2010, I want to wish you the same that I wish for our family: a year of joy -- brought on by wise decisions - and experiences - that will enrich your life.

In The Netherlands New Year's is known as "Oud en Nieuw". So here's to hoping that this "Nieuwjaar" be another incredible year of "Life. Adventure. Together."... wherever it might lead us.

A (Much Anticipated) Zeeland Christmas

2009-12-27T08:45:00.008+01:00

It may have well been the season's most memorable gift. In a stroke of Yuletide magic, on the Eve - and two days - of Christmas, our usual full-winter flu granted us a short respite. And though the thick blanket of snow thinned considerably with each passing day, this Christmas was still a memorable one.

For one, the boys are thrilled that my sister is visiting, as are Tobi and I. Plus, with her she brought gifts from the States - none of which we could have possibly lived without. ;)

Having made the decision to leave our our ornaments packed up in their respective boxes in Germany, most of our decorations were borrowed. Our tree may have been a bit bare, but it was grown right here in Oudelande... so it fits perfectly right here in our little farm house.

And what did we do? Honestly? I came down at 5am to wrap some gifts, fill stockings, and clean up (to prevent our mess from being captured on photos for eternity). Why? Because around here, everything is done at the absolute last minute. Two hours later I heard the pitter patter of little footsteps, and shortly thereafter we began with our Christmas stockings. The plan was to check out what Santa brought, then get dressed and head over to the church to see our friends perform. Had we known that they lock the doors at exactly 10 am, we wouldn't have arrived at 10:01. I kid you not, they were LOCKED!

And what a sight we were. The silly foreigners, standing at the old church, banging on the doors, only to sadly return to the car in the wind and rain... as we contemplated our tardiness and the fact that we likely missed our last opportunity to see the town's Christmas pageant.

It would have been easy to be grumpy all day. Instead, I took the dog on a walk in spite of the dismal weather; letting my wind-battered ears burn as punishment for my momentary lapse in judgement. I ordered myself to make the best of the situation and not ruin Christmas for my visiting sister or kids. I could have just opened the incredibly cute Christmas card from my family back home. That would have cheered me up quickly!!!

But really, what it boils down to is this: Once upon a time, I was a traveler that needed everything to go exactly as planned for good times to be had. With kids that never happens. You make lemonade from lemons, or let the lemons rot, and - along with them - your whole travel experience. It's all about choices. I chose to be late, and now it was time to re-assess what was important, and how I wanted the rest of the day to unfold. Doesn't get any simpler than that!

So we opened presents. We had coffee and cake with friends. We presented Peter (the man who grew up on our farm) with a photo album full of dozens of images from our two and a half years on this incredible little farm. We went on a walk through the orchards at sunset. We made a fire. And we ate ostrich stew.

Our second Christmas Day (there are two here in The Netherlands) was the more traditional of the two. Our friends Carrie and Jason came over for dinner and we had turkey and ham (courtesy of Tobi), roasted butternut squash and cranberry sauce from scratch (made by my sister), sweet potato casserole (my creation), and homemade chocolate chip cookies (which Carrie brought along with her, made from imported chocolate chips!). Somehow it felt like we were "home", as we shared in typical American dishes, and traded stories of past and future travels.

On an interesting sidenote, earlier this month a letter of mine appeared in the town's newspaper. In it, I shared with the people of Oudelande how fond we have grown of this place. So we managed to get locked out of the church on Christmas Day. That doesn't change the fact that this has been a very special Christmas for us, here on the "boerderij". A (belated) "Vrolijke Kerst" to you, whether you're here in Zeeland, or somewhere else on this great planet!

A Scary Bavarian Tradition - Celebrating Perchten

2009-12-15T23:48:00.012+01:00

It takes a lot to shock me. Years of exposure have desensitized me, be it from:
...time spent nude in European saunas
...the crime, drugs, guns and death penalty of the United States
...the extreme poverty and gruesome crimes of South Africa
...the mind-boggling traffic fines of The Netherlands, perhaps best described as making you want to hurt someone - preferrably the unreasonable, unwaivering, money-hungry ape that issued the citation - badly
...and last, but not least, the many miles of nothingness one encounters when stranded pregnant on Australia's "Plenty Highway" (which neither offered "Plenty" or a "Highway").

Having said that, I think it is only fair to tell you that my first exposure to the Bavarian celebration of "Perchten" FREAKED - ME - OUT. Don't misunderstand me. It can be very unnerving to negotiate your way around a German sauna with foreign objects dangling precariously from their foreign owners. But this was different. The masks. the music. The weirdo that sandwiched me between him and a brick wall.

Yes, part of me said, "Hey, how cool that traditions like this exist in such a tiny little town in the middle of nowhere." while the other part of me said, "Wow, this is the perfect holiday for creeps and sexual predators. Where else can you casually molest total strangers without them being able to see your face or object?" Because, after all, it's all in the name of scaring off the "evil spirits". So I guess the phillosophy is "Let's dress in the scariest costumes imaginable, make a lot of noise, and try our very best to scare the bejeebies out of anyone we pass, to keep evil at bay." I suppose these sorts of celebrations led to our American Halloween. But, then again, I did always tend to forgo the "tricks" in favor of the "treats" ("Trick or treat!").

See for yourself. Come along... be my virtual guest at this Perchten celebration in the Bavarian town of Kirchsseon (via the below video).

Thank you to our friends Christiane and Volker for sharing this scary, and yet very cool, little piece of Bavaria with me. I love that Lukas and I were most likely the only foreigners joining in the festivities that night (and thankfully Alex was fast asleep)! :)

Oh, and a gentle reminder for those of you who haven't yet entered for the chance to win one of many cool prizes through Passports with Purpose, there's only five days left! So far we've raised over $19,000, meaning the new school WILL be built, and all additional monies raised go towards creating drinkable water and a vegetable garden for the children. Water and food... things that we give our children every day and perhaps take for granted.

Lastly, I'll leave you with this image of Bavaria in the snow. This was taken on a picturesque country road just south of Munich on Sunday afternoon. As fun as it was for us, it was also Alexander's first real exposure to snow, and he loved it! It evoked images of Narnia and it gave our spontaneous Sunday adventure a frosty winter touch.

The Adventurer's Pot of Gold

2009-12-08T13:51:00.006+01:00

Last night I tossed and turned quite a bit, and the thought occured to me that we haven't been taking enough "spontaneous adventures" lately here at our "home base" in The Netherlands. Sure, we have our usual winter flu and the weather's been bad, but all of that kind of melts away when you're wearing an explorer's hat.

Whether or not we have time for full-fledged adventures, if there's extra time, there's adventure time! With this in mind, more often than not I try to get beyond my innate last-minuteness, and give myself a 10-15 minute cushion to get somewhere. Instead of rushing, feeling guilty, and risking astronomical speeding fines, I notice the colors along the way, the changing seasons, and the occasional rainbow.

And what a special treat rainbows are! Today I discovered that just circling around to admire them in all their splendour; finding your way back to that perfect spot on the side of the road for a kodak moment, well in my book that's adventure enough. Who needs a pot of gold?

And if you do need a pot of gold, maybe you'll find it on the list of Passports with Purpose prizes (scroll down for a list of prizes). All contributions go towards building a school for children in Cambodia. Forget the "lucky charms"... this is a tangible treasure in the making!

PASSPORTS WITH PURPOSE PRIZES

Books/Music

Periscope Book Light in a Book Cover plus a novel.
$75 Lonely Planet Gift Certificate
A One Year International subscription to Wanderlust!

Cameras

FLIP Mino 60 Minute Video Camcorder
Flip Ultra Video Camcorder
Casio Exilim EX-S5 10 Mega Pixel Digital Camera
Kodak Zi6 Pocket Video Camera
Fuji Instax Mini and film
$100 Gift Certificate to B&H Photo and Video

Destinations

2 Night Stay at NYC's Roosevelt Hotel in a Suite With Room for the Whole Family
Two night stay at Monteleone Hotel in New Orleans
Three Nights at an Aqua Hotel in Waikiki
Five Nights at Los Suenos Resort in Costa Rica
2-night Stay at the Shangri-La Hotel in Vancouver, B.C.
One night at Seattle's Inn at the Market
Lunch and Walking Tour of San Francisco
$100 Gift Card
Hyatt Gold Passport 50,000 bonus points
Four Seasons Seattle - One night + Breakfast
$100 Gift Certificate to BedandBreakfast.com
Resort package for Coconut Bay, St Lucia
Great Alaskan TourSaver book filled with 2-for-1 travel coupons
Tranquility Bay resort package in Belize

General Gear

Kuru shoes
Briggs & Riley Large Shopping Tote
Tom Bihn Synapse Backpack
Briggs & Riley Baseline 20” Carry-On Expandable Wide-Body Upright
$100 OtterBox Gift Certificate
Road trip with Rover: Dog car safety package PacSafe
Kelty Backpack
A PHOTTIX® CLEON II Remote Trigger and 3-in-1 Cleaning Kit
Alpha Sherpa Back Pack
Sierra Designs Lightning XT 4 Tent
Horny Toad Men's and Women's Jacket
Klean Kanteen grab bag
ERGObaby HandsFree System
Maclaren Quest Stroller
iPod Touch

Other

$100 Gift Certificate to Buckheadlife Restaurant Group
$100 Gift Certificate to Tots on-the-Go
$150 in gift cards from Shutterfly.com
Portable DVD Player w/2 7" Widescreens
$250 voucher for use on Travellerspoint's budget accommodation area. ´
Prism Portable Digital TV
Tifosi sunglasses
Ko'Aloha Soprano Ukulele
Personal Photo Shoot in Puget Sound Region
$100 Amazon Gift Card
$200 gift certificate for Viator.com tours & activities
Tahitian Pearl
$100 Gift Certificate for Children's Travel Activities
$150 Gift Certificate to Restaurant.com
Nintendo DS Lite
Free Tuition to Matador U's online travel writing program
Southwest Airlines $75 e-gift card
Gift Certificate to PosterBrain

Feeling lucky? Click HERE to donate!

Passports with Purpose

2009-11-30T20:53:00.004+01:00

It's that time of year again. Passports with Purpose has chosen a new charity and has begun their fundraising efforts. This year's goal is to raise $13,000 to fund the construction of a new school in Cambodia. To that end, I'm happy to announce that - together with my favorite travel magazine, UK-Based Wanderlust - I'll be giving away a 1-year air-mail subscription to their fabulous publication, PLUS a copy of their latest book, "Visions of Wanderlust 3". The total vaule is about 103 USD (or 62 GBP).

If this doesn't tickle your fancy, you can see what other participating bloggers have up for grabs, or read more about the American Assistance for Cambodia (AAfC) initiative.

Together, we can make a difference... and who knows, maybe you'll win something along the way! Please check back soon for more details, or enter your email address in the field below to receive updates to your email.

Wishing you, and yours, safe and happy travels this holiday season!
Liz

Charity, and The Somewhat Bitter Truth About Life Abroad

2009-11-28T04:51:00.005+01:00

We smile a lot. We photograph everything. We write about our journeys. But do those photos and musings really reflect how we feel as expatriates in a "strange" country? How honest are they?

Here's what we may write:
Being overseas at Thanksgiving is fabulous. We love sharing our traditions with the locals, and are adopting a few new ones along the way!

Meanwhile, here's what we're actually thinking:
Man, I really miss my family at this time of year, and wish I could go home but can't afford it. Yet, while being away is killing me, I'll have to do my best to share traditions with my child/children in an environment that's not at all conducive to American traditions. (In fact, it kind of feels like an uphill battle at times to celebrate something that less than 1% of the population is interested in. So forced!).

So why put on a front? Are we misleading readers? There are three reasons:
1) 75% of the time we probably are loving our life, so it's not all lies.
2) When we're not enjoying life abroad, we figure, "Who wants to read about my depression?" and "How popular would my blog be if all I did was write negatively about this country?" and,
3) Writing positively actually improves your outlook and well-being. Kind of like smiling can make you feel better, even if you're in a real funk. So sometimes you write about the sun shining, even if it only happened for 15 minutes three hours ago. It was there. You saw it. And chances are you'll see it again.

I guess what I'm saying is, the holidays may not be quite as "happy" as they appear, because the bitter truth of the matter is that living "abroad" is (often) much less glamorous than one expects it to be.

But just what can you do about it? Well, this holiday season, why not do a different kind of "good" deed? Reach out to your neighborhood "foreigner" and do your best to make them feel at home. At times it may be uncomfortable and awkward, but chances are they're homesick and longing for a bit of family, and you might just make their stay one of the most memorable time of their life (and learn something about their culture along the way!).

Wonder how I know this? The answer is, it's happened to us. And perhaps that's what's really meant by 'charity begins at home'. Honestly, I know of no better tradition or lesson to share with my children.

Spontaeously Serene: Another Miraculous Zeeland Sunrise

2009-11-21T14:47:00.014+01:00

As I walked out the door for my pre-dawn walk with the dog, the brisk morning air was rich with the sweet-vinegary smell of the orchard's unharvested apples. The sound of roosters and pheasants punctuated the otherwise silent country scene, and a light mist rose off the fertile, freshly tilled soil. As always, the dead-end farm road gave me no choice but to stop in my tracks, briskly retracing the muddy path back towards the orchards. But - unlike always - I was feeling spontaneous and decided to pause to appreciating the beauty around me.

Standing in silence, I watched huge flocks of birds migrate overhead, and wondered where they might be headed. Slowly, the clouds, trees tops, and tall amber grasses that surrounded me changed colors like chameleons, reflecting the picturesque Zeeland sunrise. I suppose even I took on a firey orange-hue as I stood admiring one of mother nature's greatest feats.

I believe in miracles. In fact, I think we're surrounded by them, wherever we may be. And imagine, if we grant ourselves just a little more time, the ordinary will become extraordinary. What a beautiful way to see the world.

Lose Yourself in Antwerp

2009-11-10T22:17:00.010+01:00

Give me 24 hours, and I'll show you a cobblestone city square straight out of a fairy tale, along with Europe's trendiest shops, world-class dining, hidden gardens, and a stunning cathedral filled with some of Europe's most notable Rennaissance art. All this, packaged nicely into one location; the metropolis of Antwerp.

Exploring it early in the morning, just after the sunrise, you'll see Antwerp unveiled slowly and deliberately, like an artist revealing a great masterpiece. Indeed it is a masterpiece, one that's taken many years to complete, and is still busily evolving into one of Europe's dearest destinations.

Shop on Meir, dine at Flamant (where you can also shop and stay), wander through the Grote Markt, attend a service at the cathedral of Our Lady, take a horse-drawn carriage through the narrow cobblestone streets, eat a Belgian waffle at Désiré de Lille... See, Taste, and Feel Antwerp in all its grandeur.

Most importantly, get lost. Let yourself wander. Allow enough time to satiate your curiosity as you constantly consider what treasures lie behind the next corner. If you love Europe, you'll feel like a kid in a candy shop. I know I did.

One Last Action Packed Day Down Under: Bridge Climbs, Zoos, Museums, and Lookouts

2009-10-20T13:08:00.009+02:00

When you have less than 24 hours left in the "land down under", and a half dozen things yet to explore, there's only one logical thing to do: sacrifice sleep.

And so it is that you find yourself getting up at 2:30 am to climb an 80-meter bridge...

Or riding 30 minutes on a bus with your two kids to finally feed those rainbow lorikeets (not to mention cuddling koalas, jumping with joeys, and running with emus)...

Soon you're racing back to the center of town to hit that museum ("Queensland Museum South Bank") you planned on going to, but never managed. And while you're there, you can meet friends for one last coffee (which is much needed by this point in your hectic day).

Just before dashing off to the airport, you'll drive up Mount Coot-tha for one last view of the big city skyline.

It may sound crazy, but it's your last day in Oz. Make it count.

One Fine Day in Scenic Byron Bay

2009-10-17T07:00:00.001+02:00

Byron Bay. A bay so beautiful, we named our first born after it (Lukas Byron Kraft). If I had my way, I'd stay there for a week. Somewhere in a quaint little house on the steep hills of the village. I'd walk to the beach every morning, to admire the curious crab constellations (before they're washed away by the sea and beach-combers). I'd have lunch on popular Lawson Street at the artsy Twisted Sister Café, and take a leisurely stroll through town, discovering a new shop or gallery every day.

Afternoons would be filled with tandem hang-gliding off the steep cliffs of northern New South Wales or in any combination of surf, kayak, and stand-up paddling lessons (obviously, at this point the children will be away at college). As dusk fell, I'd join the locals for sundowners (BYO!) on the beach near Fishheads (at the intersection of Jonson Street and Bay Street).

I'd time my trip to coincide with the first Sunday of the month, which would put me there for the Craft and Produce Market at the pristine Butler Street Reserve. But if I missed the Butler Street Markets, I'd head out to explore some of the regions' other popular weekend gatherings, such as the Channon or Bungalow Markets.

It would be a magical week, and by it's end, I will have evolved into a proper beach bum. :)

Instead, we settled for a day in Byron Bay. We did manage to have lunch at the Twisted Sista Café, and I hiked from town up to the light house (5km), with Alex in-tow, enjoying many spectacular views along the way. At the top, we spotted a mama humpback whale with her calf and some dolphins.

As for the afternoon, it was spent combing Byron Bay's picturesque beach, searching for remaining crab constellations, and basking in the warm Australian sun. Not long now... in a few days we'd transition from the Aussie Spring to the European Autumn, saying goodbye to one of our very favorite places, and hoping only that we're lucky enough to return some sunny day.

Whitsunday Fun... Hamilton Island Hell

2009-10-13T23:58:00.017+02:00

Aside from the two tired children at our side, it was romantic. Exclusively outdoor dining, tables topped with fresh white linen overlooking the Whitsunday Islands, the soft glow of the backlit overflow pool and fountain, flame-topped tiki torches.

Our dinner and accomodation at the Pepper Coral Coast Resort was still romantic in some way, even with the 3-year-old who's forgotten how to feed himself, the tired baby who tosses anything in his reach onto the ground, and the fights over who gets to play with what. And for something to maintain its romance through such adversity is nothing short of a miracle. Truly.

Coupled with the snorkeling trip to the Great Barrier Reef, lazy walks through quaint Airlie Beach, and splashing around in the centrally-located Airlie Beach Lagoon, our time in the Whitsundays was pretty magical.

...Until, that is, it came time to fly out of the Hamilton Beach Airport. Man, was that hell. They're so not equipped for large crowds, and it was vacation time for many schools across Australia. But then again, we survived it. To avoid landing in the same predicament, during big vacation times get to the Hamilton Island Airport 3-4 hours early, rather than 2. Sounds absurd, but it will save you a whole lot of headache. Wish we hadn't ended our time in the Whitsundays on such a rough note, but that we were able to visit at all was a blessing in itself.

The New South Wales and Victoria Chapters

2009-10-07T00:43:00.011+02:00

More than any other country, what's incredible about Australia is its sheer concentration of incredible things to see and do on any given road trip (save for, say, the Plenty Highway in the Northern Territory's, where you'll see a whole lot of nothing).

In Queensland there's the Great Tropical Drive, Glass House Mountains and Gold Coast Hinterland to explore. Meanwhile, New South Wales' boasts the Blue Mountains and Hunter Valley routes. Still further south, Victoria's Mornington Peninsula and Great Ocean Road are great fun to drive. Out west, the fabulous Drivewa.com outlines "8greatescapes". Or how about the NT route from Uluru to Darwin, taking in Katherine Gorge and Devil's Marbles along the way? Regardless of where you end up, what's critical is that you leave yourself some flex time, for the many surprises that await you along each journey.

Ultimately, as with any journey, it's the people you come to know along the way that makes it extraordinary. Wondering how to meet people before you go? Here are a few thoughts:

1) Talk to friends and family. Do they know anyone in Australia?

2) Re-evaluate your facebook "friends". Maybe you have one that lives in Oz.

3) What's your hobby? Is there a group that does it in Australia? Try to get in contact with them before you go.

Now with a little over a week left to go here in Oz, we've discovered that this country continues to tug at our heartstrings, and although I can't upload all the photos just yet, there are a few extra special moments that are worthy of mention, if for no other reason than to encourage you to include like-adventures to your travel itinerary in the near (or distant) future.

[I've included link wherever possible to simplify your trip planning and online reasearch.]

So here's the scoop on our time in NSW & Victoria. After leaving Queensland, we chose to spend some time in Sydney, Melbourne, and the Mornington Peninsula, intentionally leaving out the Blue Mountains with its stunning Three Sisters and Great Ocean Road (both of which are spectacular), and focusing instead on exploring some new territory.

You can drive from Sydney to Melbourne, taking either the inland "Heritage Drive" or Coastal route. However, since both of these road trips take several days to complete, we opted to fly this time around.

Without giving you a play-by-play on the events of the past week, here are a few highlights:
In Sydney:
-Breakfasting at the Botanic Gardens Café - beneath thousands of frisky fruit bats - in Sydney's magical Botanical Gardens
-Sailing with the Tribal Warrior to "Be-lang-le-wool" island in Sydney Harbour, for an aboriginal performance.
-Eating scrumptuously fresh fish at "Fish At The Rocks" (and later that night, Tobi took this incredible photo of Sydney Opera House from The Rocks)
-The boat ride to the quaint village of Manly, and dining with old friends at Manly Grill.
-Riding high on the cable cars at Taronga Zoo, and exploring the zoo itself... with it's unrivaled views.

In and around Melbourne:
-Melbourne's Botanical Gardens. Although we missed the visiting hours of the Ian Potter Children's Gardens, the kids still had a blast running through the meticulously planned gardens, and up the stairs of the memorial.
-Melbourne's South Bank. We dined at an Italian eatery, but there's cuisine for every taste, and some fabulous views of Melbourne's skyline!
-Driving The Dandenongs (not to be confused with the community "Dandenong" -- this mountain range is about an hour East of the city center -- think Carolina's). Here, we paused for breakfast on Main Street in Olinda, navigated our way through the maze (GREAT FOR KIDS!) at Sky High, and meandered through the serene surroundings of the William Ricketts Sanctuary.

The Mornington Peninsula
(See Website: http://www.visitmorningtonpeninsula.org/)
-Staying with friends in the sweet town of Yanakie, with it's tiny town store.
-Four-Wheeling along the Corner Inlet National Marine Park
-Driving through Wilson's Promonotory National Park, and our short walk to the beach at Tidal River.
-Stopping at the Caldermeade Dairy Farm to see cow's come in for their daily milking, pet the baby animals, and have a scoop of dairy-fresh ice cream.
-Driving along the picturesque, cliff-lined coastal road from Mt. Martha to Mornington (see above Mornington website for details).

It's a bit long-winded, I know... but I hope your sold. :)

I'll add photos soon, and if you have any questions, please ask!!!
Signing off from Airlie Beach in the gorgeous Whitsundays (your clue to my next blog posting!),
Liz

Brisbane, Our Home Away from Home

2009-09-27T23:18:00.007+02:00

Spring in Queensland is magical. Nestled between the palms, gum trees, Jacarandas and frangipanis, are exotic birds, oversized lizards, possums, and koalas. Weekend markets take place under old fig trees, and after buying fresh fruits, veggies, and meats from the market, people spend evenings outdoors, eating meat from the "barbie".

"Easy come", but very hard go. If you're in Brisbane, tour the Southbank markets on a breezy Summer night. Drive the beautiful Mt. Neebo-Samford drive, stopping at Café Boombana for a tranquil afternoon tea. Hike the stunning paths of Lamington and Springbrook National Parks (two hours from Brisbane, but well worth the drive). Explore the Glass House Mountains and Sunshine Coast Hinterland, stopping in Montville, Maleny, and Eumundi (for the markets). Shop on Queens' Street. Take the "City Cat" down the Brisbane River, hopping off and on at your leisure.

That's what we did, and we've loved every minute of it. Brisbane... it's our home away from home.

The Recovery, Mountains, Zoo, and Sand Storm of Queensland, Australia

2009-09-23T05:55:00.005+02:00

Wonder what we've been up to these first few days in Queensland? Here's a quick recap, and a few tips on things to do while visiting the Brisbane area. (But there is also much, much more to come!!!)

The Day of Recovery (Sunday, September 20th)
Napped, had sandwiches, enjoyed Viera's home-made beef stew for dinner, walked aroung The Gap (an upscale community north-west of Brisbane) in the evening... beneath the soaring cockatoos and noisy parrots. At night, wondered if we had made a mistake by subjecting our kids to such extreme jet lag, as they perked up at 10 PM. With a little creativity (walking with the stroller outside, a late-night dinner, warm milk, and a quick bath), by 11 we were all sleeping soundly once again.

The New Farm Day (Monday, September 21st)
Woken up by the calls of an early-morning Kookaburra. And as the suburb of New Farm holds a special place in our heart, that's where we headed next. It's where we used to live. We lunched at the Italian-owned New Farm Deli, walked beneath the jacarandas in New Farm park (pronounced "New Fom Pok"), played amongst enormous fig trees at the historic New Farm Playground, followed the footpath along Brisbane river to Sydney Street, had coffee at Café Moray, walked down Merthyr Road. Then enjoyed Viera's home-made lasagna back at her cozy hilltop home in The Gap.

A Day in the Glass-House Mountains & Australia Zoo (Tuesday, September 22nd)
Missed the croc show with Terri and Bindi Irwin, but enjoyed the later "Wildlife Warriors show". Also liked cuddling with the koala for a Kodak moment, meeting Luca (our "adopted" Koala), seeing the wallaby cuddling with it's binkie, and getting up-close-and-personal with numerous water dragons. The drive back down to Brisbane was spectacular, as the sun set into the oddly shaped peaks of the Glass House mountains (although I was slightly heartbroken that there was no good spot for a photo). We ended the day with some brilliant grilled barramundi, fried calamari, and a bottle of BYO wine at one of our favorite Brisbane eateries: "D'lish Fish & Chippery" in the historic little suburb of Winston.

The Sand Storm Day (Wednesday, September 23rd)
Another day of R&R, to offset the chaos. Ate breakfast at our friends' house in the suburb of The Gap, took a nap, went for a coffee, enjoyed a pedicure in the trendy James Street district. All in the midst of an eerie sandstorm that overtook much of the East coast. Hope it clears up soon, so we can visit the incredible light house at Byron Bay, hike the hills of Brisbane Forest Park, and meander through rainforests in Lamington and Springbrook National Parks. We do love this place, and there's little question why.

Opulence -- Dubai-Style

2009-09-22T01:29:00.021+02:00

Wealth. Indulgence. Opulence. Dubai.

A traditional Ramadan dinner ("Iftar") on the beach. Ice sculptures in the desert. Man-made islands shaped like palm fronds. Pools and water parks with refrigerated water.

That's Dubai. Actually, that's Atlantis.

Now on holiday in Australia, the amount of time I have for blogging is limited, but I think you'll enjoy these snapshots of our adventures on Palm Island, at the Atlantis resort. And while it's not cheap, this is a fantastic place for families, and a great way to experience Dubai in the heat of the summer.

Kid-centric Zeeland

2009-09-14T06:55:00.026+02:00

Ask any Zeelander, and they'll proudly tell you what a fabulous place this is for kids. And they're not exaggerating! Indoor gym areas for kids every 30 kilometers, kid-hikes, kid-events, etc.

And Zeelanders go all-out for their children. Just over a week ago there was an incredible event catered to, and hosted by, children in the nearby city of Goes. Goes Kinderstad had plenty of cool, kid-focused events -- from squirting a fire hose to trying their hand at field hockey, and everything in between. Jumping castles, cotton candy, face painting... you name it, they had it! Needless to say, Lukas had a blast. One of my favorite stands was one were kids could decorate a t-shirt for a child in a South African orphanage (sometimes with a little adult help). It was fun but meaningful.

Another one of Lukas' favorite things to do here in Zeeland is to visit the butterfly gardens in the small town of Langeweegje, which is why we shared the experience with friends yesterday afternoon (above photo). After roaming through the sub-tropical indoor garden he'll dash outside, running through the bamboo forest to get to the wooden playground. Usually, we'll end the afternoon with a yummy hot chocolate at their charming café.

As a rule, I think Dutch parents do a fantastic job of keeping their kids busy (afterall we all know that busy kids tend to get into less trouble). An hour of cycling to school (often in the rain), an hour of cycling home (again, often in the rain), plus dinner and homework... really, there are too few hours in the day for these little-athletes!

But what is our role as parents? Should we be sheltering our children and keeping them as safe as possible? If so, Zeeland is the place to be. Or should we be showing them as much as we can of the world, teaching them about other cultures and ways, and instilling tollerance and open-mindedness (which Dutch parents definitely do more often than not)? I'm not sure we'll ever find the answer to that question, but we certainly were lucky to have experienced Zeeland, as a family.