The Mines, Ghost Towns, and White Water of Colorado's San Juan

I'm sure I recently mentioned how incredible the American Southwest is.
(Ok, so it's not really the "American" Southwest - to be correct, I would have to write "the Southwest portion of the U.S.A."... but that doesn't have nearly the same ring to it!)

In any case, it's pretty darn amazing. The truth is, when I look at the locations independently, I think to myself, "Gee, South Africa's Seweweekspoort was just as nice." But it's the sheer concentration of these stunning sites that takes your breath away. Within a 2-hour radius of Aztec, New Mexico, there are at least a dozen things that you just have to see. From the Aztec, Mesa Verde, and Chaco Canyon Indian ruins to Monument Valley and the Bisti Badlands - and let's not forget the jagged peaks of the San Juan Mountains (dotted with dozens of crystal clear lakes) with its National Forest and Animas River, weaving a whitewater path through the foothills and into charming resorts and villages (think Telluride, Ouray, Silverton and Durango). Drive a little further into the mountains (you'll need 4x4 for this), and you'll find various ghost towns with their telltale mines. There's skiing, climbing, ice-climbing, whitewater rafting, kayaking, fishing, and horseback riding - you name it, it can be done here. It has all the makings of a once-in-a-lifetime vacation.

As an example, let me tell you about our latest personal adventures...

On Sunday, we headed up to Silverton, which is about a two-hour drive from Aztec. (This photo is of a pianist at an old-fashioned saloon on Main Street. How cute is he?!?) We stopped there for lunch at Romero's, a tasty, family-run Mexican restaurant, before heading up to the "Old-Hundred" Gold Mine for a tour. The 1-hour tour, taking us one-third of a mile into the mountain on an electric mine train, was super interesting, and we had one heck of a tour guide. Having mined since 1959, he had a dry, old-timers sense of humor which I really got a kick out of. From there, we headed towards the ghost town of Animas Forks, passing by the site of the Eureka mines, along with the foundations of what was once a town. The drive up to Animas Forks was quite spectacular, and the historic old homes there have been preserved nicely. Life up there must have been very trying.

Yesterday we went white-water rafting on the Animas River, using a Durango-based company called Rivertrippers. Although the river was fairly low, it was great being out on the river, and there were still a few rapids to navigate along the way. After rafting, we were ready for some serious food, so we headed down Main Street to the spot recommended to us by our Rivertrippers guide, a "New American" restaurant called Ken and Sue's.

Although lunch was amazing, we were concerned that eating so late in the day would leave little space in our bellies for the Green Chili Burritos that Grandma was making for dinner. Fortunately, that didn't end up being a problem. When Grandma and Aunt Pam served burritos that night, we were prepared, and dinner was followed up with good conversation, a game of duck-duck-goose (Pam and her husband Steve have five kids, but the adults got in on the fun, too), and a round of Apples to Apples.
Good, old-fashioned, family fun.

Southern Colorado - Explored

Southern Colorado is an amazing place. It's old Indian country, and at Mesa Verde, in the Southwest corner of the state, entire Indian cities are built into enormous cliffs. How amazing must it have been to have been the first explorer to come across these incredible communities! And the ravine and mesa-tops are teeming with life. From bears and mountain lions to deer, chipmunks, and various birds, it's easy to see why the original settlers decided to call this area home. The dense juniper forests that remain (many were lost to fires over the last decade), leave a lasting impression with their characteristic perfume. You can almost see the ancestral Pueblos working, playing, and socializing amongst these trees and their abandoned dwellings, climbing from one level to the next on great juniper ladders, using ropes for larger distances.

We actually began the day 40 miles away, in the mountain town of Durango, but after a coffee and a quick stroll around town, we decided to get out in the country and do some exploring. Don't get me wrong, Durango is an amazing little town, filled with friendly people and quaint, village like restaurants, but we go there every time we're in this area, so it was high-time for something new. We could have gone white-water rafting, but that's a bit tricky with an 18-month old. And so we opted for Mesa Verde.

We spent a few hours oohing and aahing at the spectacular architecture built into various sections of the winding mesas, before heading back into the mountains, to meet family for our all-time favorite dinner show. The Bar D Chuckwagon, started in 1969 by Cy Scarborough, is just plain, old-fashioned, fun. After a 3-course bar-b-que dinner, five "Bar D Wranglers" sing, while playing the guitar, fiddle, banjo, and bass, cracking jokes at each other and getting the audience involved as they perform songs about their country and life as a cowboy. All of this is done under the stars, unless of course it starts raining, in which case they roll out the giant awning to keep their guests dry. It's so well done... and it never seems to get old, which is why we try to go there every time we're in town. And Lukas just loves the show. We snuck into the first row for a couple of songs, and he was waving at the musicians and clapping to the beat. I just knew he was exhausted, but this was so much better than sleep!

On our agenda for the next few days are a drive to New Mexico's Chaco Canyon, and an afternoon visiting a couple of Colorado ghost towns and the nearby Silverton gold mines. I'll keep you posted!

Life in Rural New Mexico

There's something special about Grandma and Grandpa's place, on a little dirt road in the tiny town of Aztec, New Mexico. In the mornings, as the sun rises, it slowly reveals the cottagey house, its garden, and the little stream flowing by their front door. But the front porch is still the best spot in the house for breakfast, thanks to the misters which blow cool water onto the porch and surrounding plants. This is the best time to climb into Grandpa's self-made tree house. At Noon, when the sun is high, it hovers over the vegetable garden, shedding light onto the tomatoes, squash and giant sunflowers, as the hummingbirds draw nectar from a nearby feeder. In the evening you can watch the sun as it disappears behind the fish pond, then retire into Grandpa's outdoor "café", with spanish tiles and beach-themed wall murals, which make you feel like you're somewhere "South of the Border".

Life seems to stand still here, to the point where, you feel guilty sitting at the laptop, typing a blog entry, even if it is outdoors - in the shade of the Mexican-style Cucina, with hummingbirds chirping as they feed on nearby flowers. But isn's that guilt a good thing?

We flew into Albuquerque yesterday, then drove North to Aztec. Some of the things I noticed during the drive were:
~Multi-colored, jagged-edged Mesas
~Shrub-covered, wind-worn dunes
~Dried up river beds
~The occasionl stock of cattle
~Some motor homes and trailers in odd, remote places
~Strange rock formations, including vertical towers of stone, sometime topped with strange, unstable looking slabs; caves and arches, massive bolders, and volcano-like hills
~Old brick dwellings in the middle of "nowhere" (as subjective as this word might be)
~Wildflowers and whole forests full of pine trees (in the San Juan National Forest area)
~Rusty old cars (such as the one I saw at the bottom of a dried up river bed in the remote town of Cuba)

Tomorrow we're off to explore Durango and Silverton, Colorado. And because there's so much to see in this area, we'll probably skip the indian ruins here in Aztec this time around, but they trully are spectacular! As always, I'll keep you posted on our adventures!

Last Florida Sunset

As the sun disappeared into the Indian River, and we listened to a guitarist as he played "I'm leaving, on a jet plane - don't know when I'll be back again...", I of course struggled to remain tearless, not wanting to spoil our romantic sunset dinner with an emotional breakdown.

Sometimes these perfect moments just get to you. At the table next to us was a toddler about Lukas' age, making us miss our little guy even more (we left him with my mom, who was anxious to babysit).

Sunset Grill on State Road 520 is an amazong little place. In fact, I'm surprised my Mom or sisters haven't mentioned it to us before. Granted, the food is a bit overpriced, but it's directly on the intercoastal waterway, making it a favorite for seafaring locals preferring to travel by boat.

After dinner, Tobi watched the baby while I went up to the Cocoa Beach Pier with Mom. Unfortunately, we got there at 10, which is precisely when everything closes on a weekday, but we enjoyed walking on the Pier, then beach, a bit before returning home.

And now, it's time to pack our bags and say goodbye once more. Today we fly out to Albequeque, where we'll spend a week with my Grandparents before driving out to The Grand Canyon, and Las Vegas.
Until next time!

Lukas Meets World

Lukas has met most of my family before... several times, but I'm not sure how much he remembers from the first six months of his life. And yet, he's so comfortable with everyone. Tobi and I have taken off a couple times to run errands, leaving him with either my Aunt and Uncle, or Mom and sisters... and he's been a piece of cake. How lucky are we? And it's so cute to see him interracting with his little cousin Anika, or with his friend, Drew. I've uploaded my favorite photo of Lukas with Anika, and will include one of Drew tomorrow.

Believe it or not, yesterday Lukas saw his second shuttle launch here in Cocoa Beach. I'm not sure that he fully understands the magnitude of people being hurled into space in a rocket-propelled capsul. Maybe in a couple years.

But traveling and staying with family has inspired us to get him into his own little bed (or self-made matress on the carpet), which is a huge step for us. He definitely seems ready for it, though!

To quickly round up our trip to-date, we've spent some time on Park Avenue, gone boating and tubing (yes, Lukas TOO!) while visiting rural North Florida, spent lots of time with family, watched a shuttle launch from the beach, and lastly, we've done a bit of shopping.

What we still hope to do includes: a walk around Lake Eola, a visit to Sea World, a quick trip to the Orlando Science Center, and a visit to a "splash park" near Park Avenue (a fun spot for kids to play and dash through the water). All of that in less than a week. Wish us luck!

Old Florida Takes on Orlando

There's no doubt that Old Florida is both beautiful and charming. We just visited my unlce and cousins at their lakehouse in the tiny rural town of Florahome, Florida. Huge old oak tees bearded in thick spanish moss, dirt roads with the occasional hoof print (from the elusive deer that hide in their forests), and old Florida homes and chapels interspersed with cattle and horses that have long-since been driven out of greater Orlando (by greedy land developers and an unimaginable real estate boom).

The way Florida used to be. Fast forward to today. These things are now only visible an hours' drive from my home "town" of Orlando. What you now find in Central Florida is traffic, theme parks, endless shopping malls, and of course, lots of concrete. Then there's always Wekiwa & Rock Springs, and local beaches, but they, too, are becoming overcrowded, thanks to urban sprawl.

What seems to remain unchanged is the incredibly beautiful, seemingly timeless, town of Winter Park. With it's flagship, tree-lined, Park Avenue and beautiful old Rollins College, it's where I go to recharge when I feel overwhelmed by O-Town's fast pace and the overwhelming concrete-aggrevated heat.

That said, part of me still feels at home here in Orlando... afterall, I have lots of family here (or should I say, "there"?). Heck, maybe in a couple years I'll be ready to return. Absence makes the heart grow fonder, so maybe all I need is time.

Home, Sweet Home

It's official. We signed on our house in the tiny German town of Kleinsendelbach on Wednesday morning. Then we stopped at the "home improvement" store to choose what kind of floors we wanted inside, and three hours later flew half way around the world, to visit friends and family in the U.S. What a crazy life we have.

In September, when we return from visiting my "home-town" of Orlando (and my grandparents in New Mexico, before touring Arizona, the Grand Canyon, and Las Vegas) our plan is to spend a couple weeks getting "settled" in our new place, while Tobi's up in The Netherlands, getting started on his new project. Then, in October, we'll join him up there... by which time we'll hopefully have found a house up there to rent.

But enough about that. We're in tropical, sunny, Florida, sweating our fannies off, and loving it! So far we've spent some time at my all-time favorite spot here in central Florida - Park Avenue, and we've eaten at some of our favorite places - Krispy Creme Donuts, Blackwater Barbeque, and Panera Bread.

Today we're meeting my cousin for breakfast on "Ivanhoe Row" near College Park, at a tiny, hole-in-the-wall diner called Brian's. Then we'll probably do some shopping (what else?), before meeting some friends for dinner at their place, here in Winter Park.

Well, I better go get ready for brekky! I'll try to upload some photos later. Keep well!

The Land of the Housewives

I can't sleep. For the past hour, I tossed and turned, with thoughts of our new house dancing through my head. Well, it's not ours yet, but we plan to sign on it before leaving for the States Wednesday morning, and hope to move into it when we return from vacation in September.

It's so exciting! It's our second home purchase, but the first one (in Orlando) was more of a condo than a home. This one (in a small German town called "Kleinsendelbach") has a huge yard (or "garden", as they're called here), a big basement, attic, and garage, and for now, we look out onto a huge pasture, with a church steeple just barely visible on the horizon.

I have to be careful what I write here, because my in-laws read this from time to time (and they always seem to know exactly what we need, or don't need), but one of my first purchases is going to be one of those cute little play houses, and matching slide, for Lukas to enjoy in our new back yard. He loves those things, but until now, we've had no place for stuff like that!

So needless to say, we're pretty happy to have found something that's large enough for us, affordable, and in a good neighborhood (with lots of kids!).

Since we returned from Holland, that's kind of been our main focus. Other than that, we've been noticing some huge cultural, and generational, differences here in Germany. For starters, salesmen are worthless here. You walk onto a car sales lot, and the men sit in their office, looking at you, and wondering if you're worth getting up for. If you're bold enough to open the door and walk into their office, chances are, they'll probably get up to greet you. The problem arrises when you ask to test drive a vehicle. In our case, there was a long pause, accompanied by a small sigh, and then he agreed to go and get the license plates from the other side of the dealership. In the meantime, we're standing in the cold autumn breeze (no it's not autumn yet, but it might as well be), without sweaters on, wondering whether we should just leave. Once he returned, we had to show two forms of identification. The drivers' license alone wouldn't suffice... no, he'd need a passport too (even though that required us running back to the car). Needless to say, we didn't buy a car from that lot.

But perhaps more interestingly, is our recent debate over the (perhaps German?) notion of the housewife. Recently, I was criticized for my innability to (regularly) mop, cook, and iron my husband's clothes. I admit, occasionally, Tobi irons his own clothes, I never mop, and we usually take turns preparing meals... cardinal sins for a housewife, or a modern-day marriage? Am I mistreating my (poor) husband by allowing him to do some of these things for himself, or is it acceptable for family members to share housework and meal preperation? In giving up my job as a jet-setting marketing professional at a large, international company, was I unkowingly consenting to a lifetime of domestic labor? If roles were reversed, and my husband stayed at home with the baby, would he then be expected to mop floors and iron clothes? Is my chosen career as a writer to be classified only as a hobby, which should take back seat to my role as a housewife? So many questions.

In any case, I firmly believe that these sorts of rules should be defined by the two people that entered the marriage, and not by parents or in-laws. Critique by either of these parties doesn't
improve matters, but rather worsens things, adding an element of confusion to the matter, as you debate whether or not to speak to the people making these bogous claims, and what type of relationship you want your child to have with people who openly, and regularly, disapprove of your life choices.

The Lovely Land of Bicycles

It was love at first sight. Against all prior expectations, I fell head over heels for Zeeland. Granted, we've been here for less than 48 hours, and the weather has been less than ideal, but there's something about Vlissingen and its surrounding towns that just get to you.

Although it's just a couple hours from Germany, where most people are guarded with strangers, Zeelanders smile at - and even talk to - one another on the street. I immediately felt welcome. But then I saw the narrow cobblestone streets lined with beautiful, historic, old row houses; the various pedestrian zones, lined with dozens and dozens of shops and cafes; and the bike paths, leading through, and onto, various surrounding towns.

Of course, since this is The Netherlands, bicycles are one of the primary forms of transportation. Which reminds me, that's precisely what I planned on doing with Lukas today! So without further ado, we're off to explore!

Prague... it's not Africa!

Oh, the irony of it all. When I first moved to Africa, I was disappointed that it wasn't more European. Where were the beautiful old castles and charming cafés? But of course, now that we're back in Europe, I long for the aloe plants, lagoons, and mountains, of the place that we recently called home.

On our 4 hour drive from Germany to the Czech Republic Friday evening, the castles and green rolling hills bored me, rather than exciting me. It made me long for South Africa. And yet, I realize that we're lucky to be here, that it's far safer, and that I should be enjoying every minute.

We did enjoy Prague, although it was a bit of a rushed trip. On Saturday, we explored the city, walking to the castle and over the famous Charles Bridge, before meandering through the narrow, cobblestone streets and past the clock tower and café lined city squares. We also managed to find a couple playgrounds for Lukas to play on, and a park, allowing us to escape the massive crowds of tourists.

For dinner, we met our friends, Miro and Viera, and their children, Laura & Gregor, dining at a little café that we found, which was just around the corner from our hotel. The next morning we also met for breakfast, then we packed up and headed back to Germany, stopping in the city of Pilzen for lunch on the way.

After having dinner at Tobi's parent's place last night, we're on our way back out again. This morning we leave for The Netherlands, where we'll spend a few days in our new "home" - Vlissingen. I hope to be able to find us a house while we're there. For now, it's time to pack up (again!). Wish us luck!

Notes from a Traveler

I know I really shouldn't compare one country to another, because that's like comparing apples to oranges... but I can't help it. And aren't you the tiniest bit curious about my inner-most thoughts of the last few days? If so (or even if not), I'll share them with you.

To begin with, it's nice to see white people performing physical labor. Even I fell prey to the South African tendency to hire people for any and all dirty work. But back in old Germany no one's interested in ironing my clothes for me. And that's nothing. I've seen tons of farmers harvesting their own fields, in 37 degree+ (Celsius) weather. Nope, there are no "coloreds" or "blacks" here, and the ones that are here certainly aren't interested in that sort of work. Afterall, labor is far more expensive here! Actually, it appears to be far to cheap in South Africa. What if there were less jobs, but the wages were higher? Wouldn't that, in turn, create more wealth, and more jobs?

On the other hand, I miss a lot of things about South Africa. To begin with, I miss their tolerance. No one looks at you funny if you don't speak Afrikaans. They have so many languages there, that they're used to not being able to understand people occasionally. And the children are multilingual from such a young age! I thought the German kids were good... until I lived in South Africa. There, you often meet toddlers that speak Afrikaans - and English - fluently! Next (as silly as this might sound), I miss the little things, like their good-old-fashioned, store-bought toast-bread. Sure, Germany has wonderful bread, but not in their supermarkets. If you want good bread, you have to go to a bakery, and then you'll have to eat it quickly!

And then there are the standard things that I miss, just because we're in-between houses right now, and living out of a suitcase. Things like my own transportation, my own kitchen (who likes to cook in other people's kitchens?), and my daily routine (although I've never really been a routine person... it's so much easier with kids!).

But life is definitely good. I can't complain. We've spent quite a bit of time in Biergartens & "Kellers" lately (since the weather's been fantastic), yesterday we visited the Nuremberg Zoo with Oma & Opa, and last night we visited Bamberg with a couple South African friends. What an incredibly romantic city! I can't wait to go back there with Tobi sometime in the next couple months.

Lukas' big thing lately has been running around in his birthday suit (when it's really hot and we're playing outside). He loves it! The tough part is convincing him to put clothes back on when we have to go somewhere! He's going to kill me in a few years, when he sees the photos (and video). I plan on using it as blackmail when when he's old enough to date and drive. :-)

Absolutely Nothing, For a Change

For the past three days, we have done virtually nothing. Why? Because Lukas and I both have the flu. Half of me feels restless, but the other half is just ecstatic to have the opportunity to once again take naps during the day, read newspapers, and take baths. Life could be worse.

Yesterday, I did manage to get out for an hour. My future-sister in law and I took Felix (our chocolate Labrador... who also has frequent flier status) on a walk. Walks here in Germany are so different from anywhere else. You walk through the neighborhood, past the corn fields, and onto the quiet country road, which is bordered by dense forest. No wonder Felix loves it here! I'm sure Lukas will too. Surely, The Netherlands won't be dramatically different (climate aside)?!?

Oh, and it's light here until nearly 11 PM at this time of year. Definitely takes some getting used to!

Well, over the next day or two, I'll try to upload a couple photos of our first week (back) in Europe. This weekend, we're headed to the Neunkirchen am Brand "Burger Fest" and a Siemens "Family Day" in Erlangen. I'll post photos later! If you feel so inclined, please leave a comment. I certainly do have the time to read them now!!! :-)

Hello from Germany

Well, it's official. We've arrived in Europe. The flight was surprisingly good. Tobi was able to upgrade me to Business Class and managed to convince the airlines to let him fly with us, on Lufthansa (rather than on the South African Airways flight that departed at the same time,), and Lukas slept for most of the flight. For that I'm most appreciative!

But all of the stress of the move seems to have affected my immune system, resulting in me (and the baby) coming down with a yucky case of influenza. My whole body's sore, and Lukas woke up last night rubbing his eyes, and saying, "Owa, Owa". Poor little guy.

Tobi's ecstatic to be "home", though (although we don't actually have a home - we're staying with his parents), and is spending the week up in Bamberg (just 30 minutes away... how weird is that), at a departmental seminar.

The current weather in Germany is less than ideal, and although it's still summer, the temperatures and rainfall are similar to what we had in South Africa last week. At least we don't have to adjust to the climate!

Lukas is thrilled to have Oma & Opa around, and as always, they've been very helpful with him (which is nice, considering the time I've been spending in bed - as a result of this flu).

Other than that, not a whole lot new. We hope to make it to the Nuremberg Zoo this week, if the weather improves and I start to feel better. Next weekend meet up with some friends from Australia in Prague, which we're really looking forward to!

In any case, I'll be sure to keep you posted on our crazy lives.

The Last Meal (& Sunrise)

When Tobi and I were contemplating where we'd like to go for our very last dinner in South Africa, we decided on the restaurant at Botlierskop... where we always brought visitors, and where we've enjoyed so many starry, Garden Route nights. We brought our nanny, Rijanah along, both to thank her, and to have a little extra help with Lukas. It wasn't perfect. The drummers were on leave and the service wasn't as good as usual, but it was still a nice way to wrap up a year that was nothing short of amazing. And halfway through dinner, the song that probably best represents our time in Africa, began to play... Shosholoza.

In the morning we drove out to The Point, where we were hoping to get some nice photos of our last sunrise in Mossel Bay. It was overcast, but when we returned to the hotel (which is at the harbor), we realized that it had, in fact, turned into a beautiful sunrise.

Deoni met us at the George airport, and had a big bag of goodies for us. In it was a bag of Karoo olives, which she had painstakingly prepared herself, and a gift. She told me that I must wait until I was on the plane to open it, and I'm very glad that I followed her instructions. I was balling. It was one of the most thoughtful gift I've ever received.

The first item was a little book of Nelson Mandela's favorite children's stories, with a really sweet picture of Deoni's daughter, Rebecca, inside. Now, I have to admit, not only did I buy it for myself a few months back, I also received it as a gift from our friend Marchelle. But what that tells me is that I have two friends in South Africa, who know me very well, and know exactly what I like (even though it was actually meant for Lukas). Now we can have a copy at Grandma & Grandpa's house! :-)

Next to the book was a little hand-crocheted bag, with a parchment scroll attached. The scroll explained that there were several stones and shells inside, each from a different South African coast or region, and her favorite book - Nelson Mandela's Long Walk to Freedom. The book was an old paperback, which was one of the first things that she bought with her first paycheck, when they were still struggling to put food on the table.

All I could think to myself was, will I ever find another friend like Deoni? I get teary-eyed just writing about it. Not only is she such a wonderful, natural, mother, but she's one of the most compassionate people I know, and she loves her country. It's people like her that make South Africa such an incredible place. I'll miss her, our other South African friends, and the country itself, terribly.

Our Cape Peninsula Vacation - A Round Up

Chances are, you don't want to read a day-by-day account of our latest travels, so I'll quickly cover some of the highlights of our latest vacation in a few paragraphs.

The adventure started in Mossel Bay, as we journeyed up into the Klein Karoo, overnighting at a small guesthouse in the tiny town of Ladismith. We then moved onto the "Switzerland" of South Africa, passing first through the not-to-be-missed Seven Weeks Poort, before driving onto Ceres and spending a night at a wine estate in Tulbagh. From there, it was onto Franschhoek, where we stayed at the 5-Star Le Franschhoek Hotel and Spa for two nights, and dined at some incredible French restaurants, including Burgundy and the French Connection. And since no visit to South Africa's wine region is complete without a cellar tour, we popped into the Boschendal Estate (one of South Africa's oldest wine cellars) for lunch and a tour of the premises. From there, we headed over to Stellenbosch, staying the night at the well-known Spier Wine Estate, and eating at the ultra-hip and fun restaurant, Moyo. Then it was onto Hermanus, Swellendam, and Arniston, including an awesome scenic coastal drive along the R44 (where we spotted a couple of right whales!). Along the way, we spotted patches of wildflowers, making a rare early appearance due to recent heavy rains, followed by sunshine. We finished up with three nights in Cape Town, where we stayed at both the landmark Mount Nelson Hotel and the Victoria and Alfred (by far our favorite Cape Town hotel!). While in Cape Town, we finally managed to visit the ex-prison on Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela served most of his time as a political prisoner. We also visited the Two Oceans Restaurant at the Cape of Good Hope (where we took these super-cute photos), returning to the city via the one of the country's most incredible roads, the Chapman's Peak Drive.

As we left Cape Town, with Table Mountain to our backs, I had to fight back the tears... who knows when we'll see her again?

The Last Pages of Our Chapter in South Africa

Writing from a hotel, where the Internet is expensive and the "y" key sticks, isn't super-conducive to writing a detailed and eloquent account of our recent road trip through the Cape. I'll be sure to write about our travels in the next couple days, though.

For now, I'll just say that a day doesn't go by that I don't cry. As I was sobbering last night on the way home from friends, I vowed to Tobi that I wouldn't make friends in the next country we live in. ;-)

On Wednesday, as we drove away from Table Mountain for the last time, not knowing when we would see her again, I also fought back the tears.

Yesterday was our little goodbye party, and I miraculously succeeded in not crying while I was thanking everyone for the special role they've played in our lives over the past year. For dinner, we joined our friends Emil and Madeleine (and their two gorgeous daughters) for a good old-fashioned braai at their place. When the time came for us to go, of course I began sobbing uncontrollably... thank god we said goodbye at the car - where it was nice and dark! They gave us a neat CD by the talented South African band Watershed, and a couple of little presents for Lukas, with a very thoughtfully written card.

Oh, and I almost forgot! I managed to complicate our move even further by picking up a dog from the township, which had been severely neglected and was on the verge of death (meaning lots of trips to and from the vet prior to leaving, and having to decide whether the dog should be put down or not - and I, of course, said not). What was most mind boggling, was going to S.A. equivalent of the Humane Society, or SPCA, where they told me that if I left it there, they would have to put it down. They just don't have the funds to rehabilitate animals, and they get so many "healthy" dogs every day, also in need of a home.

Aside from the sick doggy (who I've incidentally named "Lucky Girl" - after Lukas, who calls himself "Lucky"), today is also going to be very difficult. We'll be saying goodbye to our nanny, Rijanah, and the hardest part is that Lukas has no clue that this is the last time he'll probably see most of these people.

And on that note, I better sign off. Still have some last minute packing to do! Tomorrow we head off to Germany. Our friend Deoni and her children will be at the airport to see us off. That will be a very sad day.

Mossel Bay / Garden Route Mothers

In case you're new in town, as I was, and are looking to set up a support network, here's the scoop...

There are a number of ways to meet new Moms in and around the Mossel Bay area. I'll list them below, in order of their helpfulness.

1) For starters, there is a group of mom's that meet regularly, and although the group is primarilly focused on breast feeding, various other topics are discussed at the gatherings. The town's pediatrician, Dr. Sandilands, can provide you with the contact details.

2) Visit Kindermusik & like programs! I prefer the town's non-Kindermusik option, Sandra, who has a music program for children in Heiderand. Check with the women in the above listed mother's group for her telephone number. Kindermusik is quite a bit more expensive, and I found it to be a bit slow-paced for my son (who wants "cuddle time" when there are so many kids and toys to play with?) Another option is "TopTots" in George (about 30 minutes' drive from Mossel Bay), just behind the Checkers' shopping center in town. I did this for a few months and absolutely loved it (as did my son), and the price is reasonable.

3) There are tons of places where you can go to relax, meet other Mom's, and let the kids play. Here are a few:
-Jimmy Jungles in Langeberg Mall (not my favorite, but Lukas liked it)
-Victoria Heights "Country Stall and Tea Garden" (on the road towards Wilderness). A great spot for parties, and kids love the donkey!
-George's Red Berry Farm (on the road going towards Blanco). Great spot for birthday parties!
-The Barnyard Donkey Sanctuary (also an excellent dog kennel!) - in George on Airport Road
-The Lumier petting-zoo and café in George, also on Airport Road (R102), but the hours are a bit strange (open to public on Wednesdays only?). They also offer a craft program for the kids.

Lastly, if you're looking for a gym/fitness studio with child care, there's a new Curves next to the Langeberg Mall, which may offer childcare, but Virgin Active in George is absolutely incredible, and offers 1st class childcare.

A couple other tips:
1) Day cares are called "creches" in South Africa, and the creches in Mossel Bay apparently leave a lot to be desired. Be extra careful when considering whether to put your child into one of these. I used a Nanny, Rijanah Isaacs, who also helped out with housework, and who I highly recommend. Maybe she's still available! Her number is: 083 439 9346. If she's not available, perhaps she can recommend someone.

2) Don't try to go into the Fynbos tea shop on Marsh St. with your kids. They'll turn you away at the door, no matter what age your child is... and that's no fun. Don't ask why. That's just the way they are. They're also bad about engagements, so don't try to plan anything there. But the gift shop is pretty nice, so go in once, have a look around, and be done with it. ;-)

If this has helped you in any way, and/or if you have any additional questions, please send me a note! All the best! ~Liz

Another Spontaneous Adventure Thursday - Kaaiman's River

As Wes Madiko's Cameroon lullaby, "Sweet Bitowo", played softly in the background, we drove over the narrow bridge crossing Wilderness' Kaaimans River, and onto the dirt road... very conscious of the fact that, should we get stuck, there was no hubby there to dig us out (and babies aren't usually super cooperative in crisis situations). Despite the road's uneven nature, we got through just fine in our little Volkswagen Polo, and when we reached the end, we surveyed the area, spotted a group of friendly locals having a good laugh nearby, and decided to get out to explore.

I had a few munchies with, and Lukas and I sat down on the banks of the Kaaiman, where we ate under the watchful eyes of the Knysna-Lories, perched in the jungle-like canopy of trees behind us. Lukas wobbled to and fro behind my back, "surprising" me and giggling as he appeared on my right, and then my left. We walked along the river, wary of any potential quicksand (riverbeds can be very misleading here in South Africa), and Lukas bent down to splash in the water. After a half an hour, we decided to move on. The plan was to visit the beach (Wilderness has amazing beaches), but since Lukas was tired, and there was a strange fog hovering over the coast, we headed back to Mossel Bay... along our favorite stretch of coastal highway.

That was our spontaneous adventure Thursday. Since then, we've just been packing, packing, and packing. Friday was the day that all of our stuff got loaded into the container. Lukas and I also took another stroll around the neighborhood, taking some neat photos of the pin-cushion proteas, aloe plants (complimented nicely by a bird feeding on the nectar!), and a pretty purple flower that I don't yet know the name for.

Yesterday we canceled our phone, visited the George Strawberry Farm once more (without a camera of course), spent a bit more time at Mossel Bay's Point, planned the first few days of our road trip, and had dinner with friends at Café Havana.

The plan for today was to leave early, and head into the Klein Karoo, staying at the 4-Star Ladismith Country House on the first night, and at a guest house in the town of Ceres (known as the Switzerland of South Africa) on the second night. Well, that's still pretty much the plan, it's just the leaving early part that seems to have changed. On that note, I have to run... have some last-minute packing to do! I hope to find an Internet Café along the way somewhere, so I can keep you up-to-date on our adventures!

Keep well,
Liz & Family

Globorati, and Other Topics

Yesterday marked a couple exciting milestones for me. In addition to my writing appearing on www.globorati.com (Overland Down Under), Mom sent me a copy of a small article that appeared in the Travel Section of last Sunday's Miami Herald, regarding one of my pieces.

Switching gears, I came across a really cool website this morning. You should check it out when you have a chance: http://incinq.blogspot.com/

On a more serious note, yesterday I finally had the opportunity to meet with some local South Africans that are doing everything in their power to make a difference. Their goal is to help feed and clothe some children in a local "squatter" camp. What I find so sad about South Africa is, that the country receives so little money from various international charities - who focus more on Somalia, Ethiopia, etc. But if you saw these little children, living in sheds with huge holes in the roof, sleeping on soaking wet beds, running around without shoes or jackets in the winter, and drinking only a glass of imitation orange juice for breakfast, your heart would break just the same. Not only do they receive so few nutrients, that their brain development is often years behind that of "normal" children, but the awareness level of the parents and caretakers is alarmingly low, leaving them completely bewildered when their children's teeth rot out of their mouth after they've been given bottles of coke regularly for the first year.

But to get back to this organization, their goal is to eventually set up a type of sponsorship program, to allow people to directly sponsor one child, visit them if they'd like, and receive pictures and information. But the short-term goal is to help get these children's immediate needs taken care of. They spend the day at a make-shift creché, or day-care, which is usually one woman, looking after far too many children, with too little money to properly feed or clothe the children who she's looking after. They're usually not bathed, and most have little or no immunizations... some have never even seen a hospital, clinic, or doctor. In any case, I promised to help in any way I could, from wherever I am in the world. It's so nice to meet people that aren't turning a blind eye to the immense poverty around them. It's incredible to think of what South Africa could be, if more people would stop depending on the government to make the change that they want to see in their world!

Wilderness and Mossel Bay's "Point"

Yesterday wasn't the most stress-free Sunday, but we did get a lot done. I had a golf lesson, we packed (a few things, anyway), we visited Wilderness (and the "Map of Africa"), and we met a friend for coffee back in Mossel Bay.

It was our first visit to Wilderness (other than a very brief stop at the beginning of our time here). The Map of Africa and nearby look-out point have got to be two major highlights of the town, as is the "Wilderness Grill" Restaurant. Oh, and I almost forgot to tell you about the historic little chapel on the hill behind the Protea Hotel... so charming! I would have liked to have visited the beach, but I guess I'll save the best for last! I've uploaded a few pictures, so you can visit Wilderness and Mossel Bay vicariously. :-)

And now I'm back to packing. Although I'm still a bit sad to leave South Africa, I am starting to look forward to getting settled in our next locations (even if that is several months away).

Cape Town Update

I promised to give you an update on last week's trip to Cape Town, and here it is! To begin with, I've uploaded a few photos of the trip, including a picture of us at dinner at Savoy Cabbage, the view from our hotel room at the Victoria & Alfred Hotel, the Waterfront at dawn, the cozy Coffee & Bites café, and a photo of Nobel Square (just next to the Hotel).

After my last Cape Town posting, we ended up meeting a really neat Aussie mom (and her "tot") at the Waterfront. We had so much in common, which is why Lukas and I decided spur-of-the-moment to join her and her son for a local La Leché meeting (such a neat organization! I hope to get more involved with them in The Netherlands.). After she dropped us back at the Waterfront, we did a bit of shopping (I shopped, Lukas slept - YAY!), then had a coffee at "Coffee & Bites", in the mall.

From there, returned to the hotel, got changed quickly, and got into the taxi to go and meet Tobi in Blauberg. Dinner was at a neat little restaurant, fittingly called "On the Rocks", and although the service was super slow, the food was great (and Lukas was on his best behavior!).

The next morning, we had breakfast at the hotel, overlooking the harbor and Table Mountain, then did a bit of last-minute shopping before heading back to Mossel Bay. The trip was pretty uneventful. I wrote, Lukas slept, and Tobi drove. We arrived in Mossel Bay around 3 PM, and Tobi headed to the office.

A Slow Day in Mossel Bay

Sorry, not much to write about this week. Besides tons of packing, we made it down to the golf range today to hit a few balls. After all, we want to be "on top of our game" when we play Pinnacle Point next weekend. :-)

Tomorrow should be a little more exciting. We plan on having lunch in Wilderness, followed by a family hike. Hopefully we'll have a few new photos for you as well!

The friends I wrote about on Thursday seem to be doing well now, and it looks like their little boy is going to be fine (although he'll have to have a few surgeries in his first year). We're so happy for them, and can't wait to meet their little "bundle of joy"!

A Happy, Then Scary, Day

Visiting Victoria Bay and Wilderness today left us in awe, but this was quickly tempered with the news that friends of ours are coping with a premature birth and (hopefully mild) birth defect. It appears to be an esophageal defect, that happens very rarely, and just leaves you asking why? It's only natural to put yourself in the shoes of your friends and/or loved ones when they encounter something like this. Feelings of fear, accompanied by hopefulness run through your head, and you just pray that everything will be ok, with time.

Please keep our friends in your thoughts as they deal with this. They're also expats, and I can't imagine how difficult it must be to cope with all of this in a "foreign" country.

Imagine this - you're in Cape Town...

And you've had the perfect morning. A family breakfast, followed by a walk along Cape Town's Waterfront, and a take-away cafe mocha to enjoy while writing back in the hotel room. A new marimba CD is playing on a rented laptop (that incidentally has more than 15 minutes of battery life, allowing you to write from bed, as you're getting the baby to sleep). And your little boy falls asleep without protest. Could life be any better?

Of course, no adventure would be complete without some unplanned hiccups. Over the past few days, we've experienced the torrential rains that are characteristic of Cape Town in the winter, a drive through the Constantia Wine Region (save yourself the trip if it's overcast), and have eaten at one of CNN's "hot spots" for Cape Town - Savoy Cabbage, which, although nice, doesn't compare to our all-time favorite Cape Town establishment... Baia (no official website).

What did impress us was the fantastic Cape Standard guest house, as well as the popular seaside walk along the Sea Point Promenade.

A fantastic companion for Cape Town, which I've been reading at every opportunity, is the book A City Imagined. I highly recommend it for anyone who has ever lived in, visited, or dreamed about visiting South Africa.

Once Lukas wakes up, our plan is to check out a couple nearby hotels, then head to the Two Oceans Aquarium, which is just 10 minutes away from where we're now staying (the Victoria & Alfred Hotel). And tonight we'll be having dinner North of the city center in the Blauberg area.

Unfortunately, I won't be able to get any photos online for you until we return to Mossel Bay on Wednesday, but hopefully the picture I've painted with my words has whet your appetite. :-)

A Big Family Hike

We're off to Cape Town for a few days, but I just quickly wanted to write that we had a fantastic hike in George yesterday, and I'll try to write all about it from Cape Town.

Cheers,
Liz & Co

The Garden Route's Berry Best...

Since I wrote last, we have visited a strawberry farm, driven the scenic R102, done a fantastic hike, visited Delfino's at The Point, and walked along the waterfront in Mossel Bay.

As you can imagine, the week's a bit of a blur, but our lunch at George's Red Berry Farm and hike along the St. Blaize Trail (in Mossel Bay) were
definitely unforgettable.

The Strawberry Farm is on the outskirts of George, where the countryside meets the mountains. The food is great, as are the fresh smoothies and milkshakes, and the service and setting is unbeatable. Lukas had a blast on the playground, and a stroll out to the strawberry fields makes a great "pick-your-own" experience.

The St. Blaize Trail is an incredibly scenic coastal hike here in Mossel Bay, allowing visitors escape to the "real" Garden Route, for some fresh air and amazing views. Hikers will spot various bird-life and rock dassies (especially near the lighthouse) as well as the occasional antelope and lizard. We were lucky enough to spot a tiny South African Sugar Bird... how cute!

Well, we're off on yet another adventure... one last hike into the mountains from the George Botanical Garden. I'll write more later!