The Funk at Rainbow's End

As I was making dinner today, and in a bit of a funk, I looked outside to see a rainbow culminating in our tiny town. I don't know about you, but my first rainbow in a new house is always a big deal.

So I rushed outside with Lukas, to show him his first real rainbow, and we stood there for a few minutes, enjoying the view. What made the moment even more special was our neighbor, the opera singer, who seemingly sings the sun to sleep most evenings. And the birds don't seem to mind, they had a melody all of their own going, to which Lukas shouted, "Vogel!"

Another dreamy night in Kleinsendelbach... and with that, I was able to leave my pre-menstrual funk behind.

The Divinely Boring Life

I haven't written much lately, because honestly, my life has been divinely boring. There's been some measure of routine in our days... wake up, have coffee and breakfast, naptime (for Lukas that is), unpack for a couple hours, play outside and walk the dog, and have dinner (either at our place or at Tobi's parents place). Wonderful!

From next week, we'll be doing all that from The Netherlands, but instead of Tobi's parents, we'll have "Da-da" himself in the evenings. Hooray!

Actually, Tobi just came down to visit this weekend, and Lukas could't have been happier. Afterall, 2 weeks is a really long time for a toddler! They rolled around in bed together in the mornings, played outside with the dog together, and goofed around. It was perfect.

And now Lukas' buddy from America, Gregor, and his Mama are coming to visit us for the day (and one night). Although we met them in Orlando (at our Lamaze class), they're German, and have since returned to Munich (just two hours from our place here in Germany)... such a small world! We'll be showing them around Nuremberg today (which is just 20 minutes from Kleinsendelbach/Neunkirchen am Brand).

Oh, and a few days ago, some friends from our time in Australia (also German), who now live in Vietnam, came to stay with us for the night. The best part about travel is all the wonderful friends we make around the world! If only we could get our friends Anne and Andy (and Lukas' buddy Drew and baby Annabelle) to come and visit us. But then I'd also request a visit from Deoni and her family from South Africa, my friend Jen from college, my family back in the States, and a trillion other people that we miss... no matter where we are!

Hugs from Germany,
Liz & family

It's Chaos, But It's Home!

We're unpacking at the moment. It sucks. Because we've moved around so much, and rented out our previous home, we have at least two of everything. And it doesn't help that we're both hoarders.

On the up-side, it does seem to be going fairly fast, and Tobi's parents have been a huge help! (In this photo, our house is the second from the left - the white house with the wooden balcony.)

And when I'm overwhelmed and need a break, I head out to the pastures behind the house with the dog and the baby. All of my troubles disappear there, and I'm reminded of what brought us here in the first place. The incredible German countryside.

The town where we live, Kleinsendelbach, has two playgrounds, and our neighbor (along with her 2-year-old daughter) was kind enough to give us the grand tour yesterday. Lukas got a huge kick out of the merry-go-round, swings, and see-saw. We also learned about a moms and tots group in town, which we hope to make it to whenever we're at "home".

Today we walked to Tobi's parents' place (it took us about an hour), where we had a home-cooked meal before walking out to the playground and nearby café for a mid-afternoon snack. It was the perfect day, and best of all, there was barely any unpacking involved!

And that is what we've been up to over the past week. What I haven't gotten around to is writing... and I'm so frustrated about that! I want to do some proper travel writing, write my friends and family in South Africa and the U.S., and write more blog entries. I'll set that as a goal for the next week.

Spontaneous Adventure Thursdays - in Europe

This Thursday afternoon, with Lukas fast asleep in the back seat, I decided to explore the Franconian countryside - from behind the wheel of our brand-spanking new car.

I was aware that it would probably be my last opportunity to really "get lost" - afterall, our new navigation system is impatiently waiting inside its box in the house. Once I hook that puppy up, I'll pretty much always know where I am... for better or for worse.

I drove and drove, through tiny towns with winding roads, past geranium-clad canal-side houses and their inhabitants - cute little old village women socializing in their driveways. I had neither a destination nor any real plan for the afternoon - and it was great.

Suddenly, as I rounded a corner, a castle ("Schloss Wiesenthau") appeared before me, and I knew that that was how we would while away the rest of the afternoon. I got the dog and the baby out, and we walked around the castle, taking pictures as we headed towards the biergarten. A bit of traditional food and a Radler (half beer, half lemonade) and an Apfelschorle for the little guy (half apple juice, half bubbly water), all consumed in a to-die-for-setting.

As you can imagine, I wasn't exactly expecting Bruce Springsteen's Rising as the soundtrack for the afternoon. Hearing music I had grown up with in a castle on the other side of the world was simply surreal. But shortly before leaving, as Bruce sang "My City of Ruins", it seemed perfectly natural to hear him in old Schloss Wiesenthau, afterall.

The Jogging Trail from the Magazines...

You know those incredible images of people jogging down a wildflower-covered country trail, amidst grass-covered rolling hills? I always new it existed in some other dimension, but now we have that in our very own back yard!
Who would have thought?

Yesterday I took the dog and baby on a walk. We walked down to the end of our street, past the horses (which Felix thinks are huge dogs), and into the countrside. It's dog (and people) heaven!

And on that note, I'm off to meet the movers and do some crazy unpacking. It's Christmas - come early!!!

No DSL? Can We Return the House?!?

In this day and age, it's hard to imagine that there is, in fact, a place smack in the middle of Germany with absolutely no DSL capability. Not only have we found that place... we've actually bought a house there. Oh well. Somehow we'll get by with ISDN... for the time being.

We actually won't have Internet until next week, so for the time being I have to check emails and update my blog from Tobi's parents place.

Since I only have a few minutes, let me give you a quick update on the last week.

On Wednesday we met up with some friends, first showing them our place, then going to a nearby town for some good-old-fashioned Franconian food. "Die Drei Linden" is a much loved restaurant in the little village of Kalcreuth, and both the food and service there are excellent.

The rest of the week we were busy with floors, buying a stove/fireplace for the living area, and buying a car (A Mazda 5. Yay! I get to pick it up next Wednesday).

Last night was our second night at the house. Until the furniture gets here on Tuesday, we'll be sleeping on an air mattress. Actually, I'll be sleeping on the air mattress, and Tobi will be sleeping in a comfy bed at a hotel in The Netherlands, starting tonight. I think we'll probably join him up there next Saturday.

Last night was the first time we heard the church bells ringing in our tiny town. That's probably one of my all-time favorite sounds! Lukas loves it too. He says "Glocken!" - which is German for "bells".

Oh, and speaking (or writing) of bells, some German friends of ours (who currently live in Vietnam) showed me the cutest little café in the old part of Erlangen a few days ago. It's called "Glocken Café", and they have the most delicious fresh cake and coffee there. Best of all it's in a rustic old timber house on a cobblestone street. I'll upload some photos in a few days.

For now, I'm off to take Lukas to Atlantis for some indoor swimming.
Keep well!

Our New Place (In Germany, That Is...)

Finally, a moment to breathe (and to write). Thanks to German legislature, preventing any shops from being open on Sunday, and making noise-making equally illegal on the Sabath, we were forced to relax today. There would be no home-improvement projects, nor could we purchase our much needed washer, dryer, automobile, etc.

Since it was Sunday, we (finally) resumed our traditional family hike. Along with Tobi's parents and cousins, we hiked for a couple hours with the baby in tow, up to a neat little restaurant in the forest called "Streitbaum". This is the spot where the people from the nearby town of Hetzles would come to resolve things (or fight - "streiten"). Not only was the food good, but the server could have just as easily been an old friend. I love it when I don't feel intimidated by the person serving me (which I find is often the case here in Germany). The weather was great... just overcast enough for a perfect hike. And best of all, there was a slide at the restaurant. (Lukas loves slide. Big, small, fast, slow... it doesn't matter. Just let him slide! )

After returning to Tobi's parents place to allow Lukas to nap for an hour, we headed out to the neighboring town of Grossenbuch, for a "Kirchweih", or German summer festival. Steeped in traditional music and dances, these small-town events are always lots of fun.

But getting back to our house, it really could have been built for us. It's got three bedrooms and two bathrooms spread out over three floors, a huge back yard looking out onto a big, open field, and there are lots of kids in the neighborhood, not to mention horses just down the street.

For now, it needs new floors, and we've decided to put wood flooring into most of the house. Future projects will also include adding a wintergarden to the side of the house, and completely revamping both the kitchen and master bath. We're not in any hurry, though. The house isn't going anywhere!

That's the greatest feeling. Just knowing that the house is ours, and that it's big enough to accommodate us and it's in a child-friendly neighborhood (which would be fun to grow up in), is just wonderful.

I'm so excited about it, that I actually found myself scrubbing the toilets with a smile on my face the other day. If that isn't a sign, I don't know what is! :-)

As for our travels, it looks like we'll be in one place for the better part of the month. Tobi has to leave to begin his job in The Netherlands next week, but we'll wait at least a week before following him up, allowing us to unpack before transitioning to our "home away from home".

I'll post pictures soon!

Vive Las Vegas?

Vegas is…
Incredibly superficial
Vain
Over the top
A City of Waste
Exhausting


And yet, it’s somehow…
Romantic
Fun for a while
Iconic

We saw it all (nearly):
Bally’s Paris
Planet Hollywood (the Hotel and the ‘Miracle Mile’ shopping mall)
The Bellaggio
Caesar’s Palace
The Venetian

...And many more from the outside.

We caught a show, Popovich Comedy Pet Theater, which was more for Lukas than for us, but he enjoyed it. If we would have had another evening here, we probably would have gone to one of the five Cirque de Soleil Shows, but our first night was spent relaxing by the pool and eating here in Lake Las Vegas (which is incidentally an awesome escape from the strip when you’ve had enough of the lights & action!).

When we returned to our Lowe’s Hotel last night, a woman was singing marvelously down in the (empty) lounge. Lukas, who had been sleeping, popped up in his stroller and said, “shakies!”. So we brought him down, for what turned out to be the rest of the song, and a quick nightcap. When the musicians began packing up, we headed outside, to sit beneath the stars, and beside tike torches and fountains, looking out over the lake while pondering our recent (and upcoming) adventures.

Yes, it’s been a wild summer, and we’re ready to get “home” (to our new house in Germany, that is).

Signing off from Las Vegas,
Liz & Family

P.S. Be sure to check out our Monument Valley & Grand Canyon Adventures, and we'll post more photos soon!

Your Grand Canyon Adventure

Standing on the south rim of the Grand Canyon, staring out into the gaping chasm, the only audible sound is that of the wind, spiraling up off of canyon walls, rushing past your face, before continuing its journey southwards - to the neighboring Kaibab Forest.

Some of America's first explorers, first the Natives, then the Europeans, felt this tepid wind brush their faces. They too, stood in awe, wanting so badly venture forward, that they might feel the depths of the canyon as it surrounded them. And yet, most did, and will, not dare descend, particularly in this August heat. If the descent doesn't kill you, the heat very well might. And so you vow to come back in Spring or Fall, today settling for a walk along the rim and some spectacular photos.

Starting at Parking lot “D”, you check out the view point next to The Bright Angel Lodge, before beginning your 2-mile walk. The canyon is simply incredible, and the fat squirrel, sunning himself on the nearby rock, seems to think so too. You walk for a few minutes, before spotting a children’s story time at the El Tovar Lodge. And then you stop, not for you, but for your little one, to prevent any guilty feelings from arising regarding your overly-ambitious travel arrangements. He seems to enjoy the half hour break, but seems ready to go when story-time has ended. And so the hike continues.

It's not long before you spot more wildlife... it's a deer just off in the distance, and you excitedly bring it to the attention of your fellow hikers. She’s lying under a tree, silently mocking you as you irreverently hike beneath the midday sun.

A moment later, a large, carnivorous California condor soars overhead – and as you continue to exert yourself, you wonder how hungry he would have to be to resort to a human meal.

Stopping at a couple of additional points, you pause for some photos, and a cautious look downwards. There are no guardrails here… one false move and you’ll soon know what it’s like to lie at the bottom of the canyon. Despite the danger, standing on the edge isn’t actually exhilarating. It’s simply refreshing. The lack of man-made restraints leaves you feeling one with the canyon, and it’s various inhabitants.

As the trail continues, and your water supply grows ever smaller (why didn’t you remember that “camel back”?), you silently hope for water and some form of transportation (i.e. the free shuttle) at the next bend.

Your wishes have been granted. A fellow hiker tells you that the Visitors Center is just a hundred meters further.

And what luck! Inside, a park ranger has just begun a presentation on the canyon, explaining how it was formed. Best of all, he’s not boring you to death… he’s actually using terms you understand, and making you laugh. What a perfect end to the hike!

To top it all off, you spot some water in the gift shop, and just outside is the free shuttle. Hooray!

The shuttle carries you back to Lot D, where the Grand Canyon train prepares for departure. It’s part steam engine, part diesel, driving the kids nuts with its steaming chimney and stoic conductors.

But the train doesn’t seem to be going anywhere at all, and you’re all exhausted from the hike. You pile into the car, drive a few miles, and stop just outside the park for some Caravel ice cream before heading back to your motel in the charming town of Williams. (You’ve decided to stay there because of the astronomical rates at hotels and motels bordering the actual Grand Canyon. You’re getting a lot more bang for your buck in this charming little town on the old Route 66).

Returning the motel, you laugh out loud at a marquis, which boasts “American Hospitality”. An oxymoron? Apparently not in these parts. Just as you pull into your “Downtown Motel”, the motel manager calls you over, inviting you to join he and his wife for dinner. They’ve got the grill and the smoker going, and it smells simply divine. Dinner includes steak, chicken, sausage, and grilled veggies. Suddenly, you’re not sure which you enjoy more, the dinner with your hosts, or the fantastic beef brisket you had at the town’s Western restaurant (complete with Western music, cowboys, and a shoot-out) the night before.

But one thing is certain. The town of Williams, aka “Gateway to the Grand Canyon”, has a permanent place in your heart, and your belly.

Monument Valley and Antelope Canyon

Just when we thought it couldn't get any more scenic, it did. Leaving New Mexico, we passed so many fascinating formations along the way, and then we saw the Monument Valley monoliths on the horizon. What a show! The colors, shapes, size, and concentration of it all is mind boggling.

From there we headed to Lake Powell, looking for accommodation in the town of Page. The hotels I found online were too pricey (even the Motel 6 and Super 8!), so we decided to wing it. We lucked out with a last-minute special at the Holiday Inn Express, paying only $85 per night ($20 less than "normal"). Then we headed to dinner at the Mexican restaurant on Lake Powell Boulevard (which advertised the "best Margaritas in town"). Dinner was tasty, and afterwards we headed across the street to the park and playground to blow off some steam. Lukas loved the slides, but most of all, he loved climbing up to them on his own. He's getting so independent!

In the morning, we headed out to Antelope Canyon with one of the various tour operators (since it's on a reservation, you must have a guide to view the canyon). Antelope Canyon is what's known as a slot canyon, and at about $30 per adult, it was worth every penny of our tour. The canyon is just incredible. It's nature at it's absolute best!

Dinner that evening was at The Rainbow Room, a restaurant at The Lake Powell Resort, overlooking the lake and mountains. It was also my first time driving over the dam (have those cameras ready!).

On our last morning, we headed back out to the lake (about a 10 minute drive), for a bit of swimming before piling into the car. The water was warm and Lukas had a blast, which is just what we hoped for!

Next stop? Grand Canyon!

Poignant Moments in the New Mexican Hills

There are certain poignant moments in life that nothing, and I do mean nothing, can prepare you for. As we watched the sun set in the arid, desolate New Mexican hills, accompanied by Grandma, Grandpa, and a cousin, my heart ached for my Grandfather.

It's a spot that holds a lot of memories, and pain. It was here that he used to take his sons to spend time with them, mostly hunting and riding motor bikes. This is also the spot where my father's ashes were scattered 7 years ago. But I wasn't sad about my father. It must be far more painful to lose two sons (my father was the second of three boys to die from unnatural causes - the cousin up there with us lost her father many years earlier), than to lose a father that you barely know... and yet I know how painful it is for me at times. I hope I never have to know his pain.

As he stared stoically towards the sunset, I looked over at him, but dared not cry. The pain that would come to the surface for me would probably be bearable, but for Grandpa, who tries so hard to live in the moment and let go of the hurt, physically grieving is just not an option. And so he keeps it within, and tries his best to live with it - and we all kind of silently acknowledge the shared pain and move on.

Once the sun had disappeared behind Shiprock and the Ute Mountains, we left the hills and traded our SUV for Grandpa's restored Cadillac, heading out to Aztec's ice cream joint - The Vanilla Moose. Sitting there, waiting for my ice cream, I was in a somber mood. I knew that "tomorrow" was the day we'd be packing up to leave, and Lukas wouldn't be able to understand this fully. He just knows that when he says goodbye to people, and has to hug them and give them kisses, it usually means that it'll be a while before he sees them again. And as we all age, saying goodbye only becomes harder. That's one of the not-so-joyful things about travelling, and I can't count on two hands the amount of people I've had to say "Goodbye" to over the past three months. Although I put on my best poker face as we part, I feel so sad inside - every time.

As we drove home with the top down, the 8-track played the John Denver song "Country Road... take me home", and Grandpa sang along. We all looked up at the stars and half-full moon, thankful for life, and especially for the beautiful night, and wonderful week together.

The Mines, Ghost Towns, and White Water of Colorado's San Juan

I'm sure I recently mentioned how incredible the American Southwest is.
(Ok, so it's not really the "American" Southwest - to be correct, I would have to write "the Southwest portion of the U.S.A."... but that doesn't have nearly the same ring to it!)

In any case, it's pretty darn amazing. The truth is, when I look at the locations independently, I think to myself, "Gee, South Africa's Seweweekspoort was just as nice." But it's the sheer concentration of these stunning sites that takes your breath away. Within a 2-hour radius of Aztec, New Mexico, there are at least a dozen things that you just have to see. From the Aztec, Mesa Verde, and Chaco Canyon Indian ruins to Monument Valley and the Bisti Badlands - and let's not forget the jagged peaks of the San Juan Mountains (dotted with dozens of crystal clear lakes) with its National Forest and Animas River, weaving a whitewater path through the foothills and into charming resorts and villages (think Telluride, Ouray, Silverton and Durango). Drive a little further into the mountains (you'll need 4x4 for this), and you'll find various ghost towns with their telltale mines. There's skiing, climbing, ice-climbing, whitewater rafting, kayaking, fishing, and horseback riding - you name it, it can be done here. It has all the makings of a once-in-a-lifetime vacation.

As an example, let me tell you about our latest personal adventures...

On Sunday, we headed up to Silverton, which is about a two-hour drive from Aztec. (This photo is of a pianist at an old-fashioned saloon on Main Street. How cute is he?!?) We stopped there for lunch at Romero's, a tasty, family-run Mexican restaurant, before heading up to the "Old-Hundred" Gold Mine for a tour. The 1-hour tour, taking us one-third of a mile into the mountain on an electric mine train, was super interesting, and we had one heck of a tour guide. Having mined since 1959, he had a dry, old-timers sense of humor which I really got a kick out of. From there, we headed towards the ghost town of Animas Forks, passing by the site of the Eureka mines, along with the foundations of what was once a town. The drive up to Animas Forks was quite spectacular, and the historic old homes there have been preserved nicely. Life up there must have been very trying.

Yesterday we went white-water rafting on the Animas River, using a Durango-based company called Rivertrippers. Although the river was fairly low, it was great being out on the river, and there were still a few rapids to navigate along the way. After rafting, we were ready for some serious food, so we headed down Main Street to the spot recommended to us by our Rivertrippers guide, a "New American" restaurant called Ken and Sue's.

Although lunch was amazing, we were concerned that eating so late in the day would leave little space in our bellies for the Green Chili Burritos that Grandma was making for dinner. Fortunately, that didn't end up being a problem. When Grandma and Aunt Pam served burritos that night, we were prepared, and dinner was followed up with good conversation, a game of duck-duck-goose (Pam and her husband Steve have five kids, but the adults got in on the fun, too), and a round of Apples to Apples.
Good, old-fashioned, family fun.

Southern Colorado - Explored

Southern Colorado is an amazing place. It's old Indian country, and at Mesa Verde, in the Southwest corner of the state, entire Indian cities are built into enormous cliffs. How amazing must it have been to have been the first explorer to come across these incredible communities! And the ravine and mesa-tops are teeming with life. From bears and mountain lions to deer, chipmunks, and various birds, it's easy to see why the original settlers decided to call this area home. The dense juniper forests that remain (many were lost to fires over the last decade), leave a lasting impression with their characteristic perfume. You can almost see the ancestral Pueblos working, playing, and socializing amongst these trees and their abandoned dwellings, climbing from one level to the next on great juniper ladders, using ropes for larger distances.

We actually began the day 40 miles away, in the mountain town of Durango, but after a coffee and a quick stroll around town, we decided to get out in the country and do some exploring. Don't get me wrong, Durango is an amazing little town, filled with friendly people and quaint, village like restaurants, but we go there every time we're in this area, so it was high-time for something new. We could have gone white-water rafting, but that's a bit tricky with an 18-month old. And so we opted for Mesa Verde.

We spent a few hours oohing and aahing at the spectacular architecture built into various sections of the winding mesas, before heading back into the mountains, to meet family for our all-time favorite dinner show. The Bar D Chuckwagon, started in 1969 by Cy Scarborough, is just plain, old-fashioned, fun. After a 3-course bar-b-que dinner, five "Bar D Wranglers" sing, while playing the guitar, fiddle, banjo, and bass, cracking jokes at each other and getting the audience involved as they perform songs about their country and life as a cowboy. All of this is done under the stars, unless of course it starts raining, in which case they roll out the giant awning to keep their guests dry. It's so well done... and it never seems to get old, which is why we try to go there every time we're in town. And Lukas just loves the show. We snuck into the first row for a couple of songs, and he was waving at the musicians and clapping to the beat. I just knew he was exhausted, but this was so much better than sleep!

On our agenda for the next few days are a drive to New Mexico's Chaco Canyon, and an afternoon visiting a couple of Colorado ghost towns and the nearby Silverton gold mines. I'll keep you posted!

Life in Rural New Mexico

There's something special about Grandma and Grandpa's place, on a little dirt road in the tiny town of Aztec, New Mexico. In the mornings, as the sun rises, it slowly reveals the cottagey house, its garden, and the little stream flowing by their front door. But the front porch is still the best spot in the house for breakfast, thanks to the misters which blow cool water onto the porch and surrounding plants. This is the best time to climb into Grandpa's self-made tree house. At Noon, when the sun is high, it hovers over the vegetable garden, shedding light onto the tomatoes, squash and giant sunflowers, as the hummingbirds draw nectar from a nearby feeder. In the evening you can watch the sun as it disappears behind the fish pond, then retire into Grandpa's outdoor "café", with spanish tiles and beach-themed wall murals, which make you feel like you're somewhere "South of the Border".

Life seems to stand still here, to the point where, you feel guilty sitting at the laptop, typing a blog entry, even if it is outdoors - in the shade of the Mexican-style Cucina, with hummingbirds chirping as they feed on nearby flowers. But isn's that guilt a good thing?

We flew into Albuquerque yesterday, then drove North to Aztec. Some of the things I noticed during the drive were:
~Multi-colored, jagged-edged Mesas
~Shrub-covered, wind-worn dunes
~Dried up river beds
~The occasionl stock of cattle
~Some motor homes and trailers in odd, remote places
~Strange rock formations, including vertical towers of stone, sometime topped with strange, unstable looking slabs; caves and arches, massive bolders, and volcano-like hills
~Old brick dwellings in the middle of "nowhere" (as subjective as this word might be)
~Wildflowers and whole forests full of pine trees (in the San Juan National Forest area)
~Rusty old cars (such as the one I saw at the bottom of a dried up river bed in the remote town of Cuba)

Tomorrow we're off to explore Durango and Silverton, Colorado. And because there's so much to see in this area, we'll probably skip the indian ruins here in Aztec this time around, but they trully are spectacular! As always, I'll keep you posted on our adventures!

Last Florida Sunset

As the sun disappeared into the Indian River, and we listened to a guitarist as he played "I'm leaving, on a jet plane - don't know when I'll be back again...", I of course struggled to remain tearless, not wanting to spoil our romantic sunset dinner with an emotional breakdown.

Sometimes these perfect moments just get to you. At the table next to us was a toddler about Lukas' age, making us miss our little guy even more (we left him with my mom, who was anxious to babysit).

Sunset Grill on State Road 520 is an amazong little place. In fact, I'm surprised my Mom or sisters haven't mentioned it to us before. Granted, the food is a bit overpriced, but it's directly on the intercoastal waterway, making it a favorite for seafaring locals preferring to travel by boat.

After dinner, Tobi watched the baby while I went up to the Cocoa Beach Pier with Mom. Unfortunately, we got there at 10, which is precisely when everything closes on a weekday, but we enjoyed walking on the Pier, then beach, a bit before returning home.

And now, it's time to pack our bags and say goodbye once more. Today we fly out to Albequeque, where we'll spend a week with my Grandparents before driving out to The Grand Canyon, and Las Vegas.
Until next time!

Lukas Meets World

Lukas has met most of my family before... several times, but I'm not sure how much he remembers from the first six months of his life. And yet, he's so comfortable with everyone. Tobi and I have taken off a couple times to run errands, leaving him with either my Aunt and Uncle, or Mom and sisters... and he's been a piece of cake. How lucky are we? And it's so cute to see him interracting with his little cousin Anika, or with his friend, Drew. I've uploaded my favorite photo of Lukas with Anika, and will include one of Drew tomorrow.

Believe it or not, yesterday Lukas saw his second shuttle launch here in Cocoa Beach. I'm not sure that he fully understands the magnitude of people being hurled into space in a rocket-propelled capsul. Maybe in a couple years.

But traveling and staying with family has inspired us to get him into his own little bed (or self-made matress on the carpet), which is a huge step for us. He definitely seems ready for it, though!

To quickly round up our trip to-date, we've spent some time on Park Avenue, gone boating and tubing (yes, Lukas TOO!) while visiting rural North Florida, spent lots of time with family, watched a shuttle launch from the beach, and lastly, we've done a bit of shopping.

What we still hope to do includes: a walk around Lake Eola, a visit to Sea World, a quick trip to the Orlando Science Center, and a visit to a "splash park" near Park Avenue (a fun spot for kids to play and dash through the water). All of that in less than a week. Wish us luck!

Old Florida Takes on Orlando

There's no doubt that Old Florida is both beautiful and charming. We just visited my unlce and cousins at their lakehouse in the tiny rural town of Florahome, Florida. Huge old oak tees bearded in thick spanish moss, dirt roads with the occasional hoof print (from the elusive deer that hide in their forests), and old Florida homes and chapels interspersed with cattle and horses that have long-since been driven out of greater Orlando (by greedy land developers and an unimaginable real estate boom).

The way Florida used to be. Fast forward to today. These things are now only visible an hours' drive from my home "town" of Orlando. What you now find in Central Florida is traffic, theme parks, endless shopping malls, and of course, lots of concrete. Then there's always Wekiwa & Rock Springs, and local beaches, but they, too, are becoming overcrowded, thanks to urban sprawl.

What seems to remain unchanged is the incredibly beautiful, seemingly timeless, town of Winter Park. With it's flagship, tree-lined, Park Avenue and beautiful old Rollins College, it's where I go to recharge when I feel overwhelmed by O-Town's fast pace and the overwhelming concrete-aggrevated heat.

That said, part of me still feels at home here in Orlando... afterall, I have lots of family here (or should I say, "there"?). Heck, maybe in a couple years I'll be ready to return. Absence makes the heart grow fonder, so maybe all I need is time.

Home, Sweet Home

It's official. We signed on our house in the tiny German town of Kleinsendelbach on Wednesday morning. Then we stopped at the "home improvement" store to choose what kind of floors we wanted inside, and three hours later flew half way around the world, to visit friends and family in the U.S. What a crazy life we have.

In September, when we return from visiting my "home-town" of Orlando (and my grandparents in New Mexico, before touring Arizona, the Grand Canyon, and Las Vegas) our plan is to spend a couple weeks getting "settled" in our new place, while Tobi's up in The Netherlands, getting started on his new project. Then, in October, we'll join him up there... by which time we'll hopefully have found a house up there to rent.

But enough about that. We're in tropical, sunny, Florida, sweating our fannies off, and loving it! So far we've spent some time at my all-time favorite spot here in central Florida - Park Avenue, and we've eaten at some of our favorite places - Krispy Creme Donuts, Blackwater Barbeque, and Panera Bread.

Today we're meeting my cousin for breakfast on "Ivanhoe Row" near College Park, at a tiny, hole-in-the-wall diner called Brian's. Then we'll probably do some shopping (what else?), before meeting some friends for dinner at their place, here in Winter Park.

Well, I better go get ready for brekky! I'll try to upload some photos later. Keep well!

The Land of the Housewives

I can't sleep. For the past hour, I tossed and turned, with thoughts of our new house dancing through my head. Well, it's not ours yet, but we plan to sign on it before leaving for the States Wednesday morning, and hope to move into it when we return from vacation in September.

It's so exciting! It's our second home purchase, but the first one (in Orlando) was more of a condo than a home. This one (in a small German town called "Kleinsendelbach") has a huge yard (or "garden", as they're called here), a big basement, attic, and garage, and for now, we look out onto a huge pasture, with a church steeple just barely visible on the horizon.

I have to be careful what I write here, because my in-laws read this from time to time (and they always seem to know exactly what we need, or don't need), but one of my first purchases is going to be one of those cute little play houses, and matching slide, for Lukas to enjoy in our new back yard. He loves those things, but until now, we've had no place for stuff like that!

So needless to say, we're pretty happy to have found something that's large enough for us, affordable, and in a good neighborhood (with lots of kids!).

Since we returned from Holland, that's kind of been our main focus. Other than that, we've been noticing some huge cultural, and generational, differences here in Germany. For starters, salesmen are worthless here. You walk onto a car sales lot, and the men sit in their office, looking at you, and wondering if you're worth getting up for. If you're bold enough to open the door and walk into their office, chances are, they'll probably get up to greet you. The problem arrises when you ask to test drive a vehicle. In our case, there was a long pause, accompanied by a small sigh, and then he agreed to go and get the license plates from the other side of the dealership. In the meantime, we're standing in the cold autumn breeze (no it's not autumn yet, but it might as well be), without sweaters on, wondering whether we should just leave. Once he returned, we had to show two forms of identification. The drivers' license alone wouldn't suffice... no, he'd need a passport too (even though that required us running back to the car). Needless to say, we didn't buy a car from that lot.

But perhaps more interestingly, is our recent debate over the (perhaps German?) notion of the housewife. Recently, I was criticized for my innability to (regularly) mop, cook, and iron my husband's clothes. I admit, occasionally, Tobi irons his own clothes, I never mop, and we usually take turns preparing meals... cardinal sins for a housewife, or a modern-day marriage? Am I mistreating my (poor) husband by allowing him to do some of these things for himself, or is it acceptable for family members to share housework and meal preperation? In giving up my job as a jet-setting marketing professional at a large, international company, was I unkowingly consenting to a lifetime of domestic labor? If roles were reversed, and my husband stayed at home with the baby, would he then be expected to mop floors and iron clothes? Is my chosen career as a writer to be classified only as a hobby, which should take back seat to my role as a housewife? So many questions.

In any case, I firmly believe that these sorts of rules should be defined by the two people that entered the marriage, and not by parents or in-laws. Critique by either of these parties doesn't
improve matters, but rather worsens things, adding an element of confusion to the matter, as you debate whether or not to speak to the people making these bogous claims, and what type of relationship you want your child to have with people who openly, and regularly, disapprove of your life choices.

The Lovely Land of Bicycles

It was love at first sight. Against all prior expectations, I fell head over heels for Zeeland. Granted, we've been here for less than 48 hours, and the weather has been less than ideal, but there's something about Vlissingen and its surrounding towns that just get to you.

Although it's just a couple hours from Germany, where most people are guarded with strangers, Zeelanders smile at - and even talk to - one another on the street. I immediately felt welcome. But then I saw the narrow cobblestone streets lined with beautiful, historic, old row houses; the various pedestrian zones, lined with dozens and dozens of shops and cafes; and the bike paths, leading through, and onto, various surrounding towns.

Of course, since this is The Netherlands, bicycles are one of the primary forms of transportation. Which reminds me, that's precisely what I planned on doing with Lukas today! So without further ado, we're off to explore!

Prague... it's not Africa!

Oh, the irony of it all. When I first moved to Africa, I was disappointed that it wasn't more European. Where were the beautiful old castles and charming cafés? But of course, now that we're back in Europe, I long for the aloe plants, lagoons, and mountains, of the place that we recently called home.

On our 4 hour drive from Germany to the Czech Republic Friday evening, the castles and green rolling hills bored me, rather than exciting me. It made me long for South Africa. And yet, I realize that we're lucky to be here, that it's far safer, and that I should be enjoying every minute.

We did enjoy Prague, although it was a bit of a rushed trip. On Saturday, we explored the city, walking to the castle and over the famous Charles Bridge, before meandering through the narrow, cobblestone streets and past the clock tower and café lined city squares. We also managed to find a couple playgrounds for Lukas to play on, and a park, allowing us to escape the massive crowds of tourists.

For dinner, we met our friends, Miro and Viera, and their children, Laura & Gregor, dining at a little café that we found, which was just around the corner from our hotel. The next morning we also met for breakfast, then we packed up and headed back to Germany, stopping in the city of Pilzen for lunch on the way.

After having dinner at Tobi's parent's place last night, we're on our way back out again. This morning we leave for The Netherlands, where we'll spend a few days in our new "home" - Vlissingen. I hope to be able to find us a house while we're there. For now, it's time to pack up (again!). Wish us luck!

Notes from a Traveler

I know I really shouldn't compare one country to another, because that's like comparing apples to oranges... but I can't help it. And aren't you the tiniest bit curious about my inner-most thoughts of the last few days? If so (or even if not), I'll share them with you.

To begin with, it's nice to see white people performing physical labor. Even I fell prey to the South African tendency to hire people for any and all dirty work. But back in old Germany no one's interested in ironing my clothes for me. And that's nothing. I've seen tons of farmers harvesting their own fields, in 37 degree+ (Celsius) weather. Nope, there are no "coloreds" or "blacks" here, and the ones that are here certainly aren't interested in that sort of work. Afterall, labor is far more expensive here! Actually, it appears to be far to cheap in South Africa. What if there were less jobs, but the wages were higher? Wouldn't that, in turn, create more wealth, and more jobs?

On the other hand, I miss a lot of things about South Africa. To begin with, I miss their tolerance. No one looks at you funny if you don't speak Afrikaans. They have so many languages there, that they're used to not being able to understand people occasionally. And the children are multilingual from such a young age! I thought the German kids were good... until I lived in South Africa. There, you often meet toddlers that speak Afrikaans - and English - fluently! Next (as silly as this might sound), I miss the little things, like their good-old-fashioned, store-bought toast-bread. Sure, Germany has wonderful bread, but not in their supermarkets. If you want good bread, you have to go to a bakery, and then you'll have to eat it quickly!

And then there are the standard things that I miss, just because we're in-between houses right now, and living out of a suitcase. Things like my own transportation, my own kitchen (who likes to cook in other people's kitchens?), and my daily routine (although I've never really been a routine person... it's so much easier with kids!).

But life is definitely good. I can't complain. We've spent quite a bit of time in Biergartens & "Kellers" lately (since the weather's been fantastic), yesterday we visited the Nuremberg Zoo with Oma & Opa, and last night we visited Bamberg with a couple South African friends. What an incredibly romantic city! I can't wait to go back there with Tobi sometime in the next couple months.

Lukas' big thing lately has been running around in his birthday suit (when it's really hot and we're playing outside). He loves it! The tough part is convincing him to put clothes back on when we have to go somewhere! He's going to kill me in a few years, when he sees the photos (and video). I plan on using it as blackmail when when he's old enough to date and drive. :-)

Absolutely Nothing, For a Change

For the past three days, we have done virtually nothing. Why? Because Lukas and I both have the flu. Half of me feels restless, but the other half is just ecstatic to have the opportunity to once again take naps during the day, read newspapers, and take baths. Life could be worse.

Yesterday, I did manage to get out for an hour. My future-sister in law and I took Felix (our chocolate Labrador... who also has frequent flier status) on a walk. Walks here in Germany are so different from anywhere else. You walk through the neighborhood, past the corn fields, and onto the quiet country road, which is bordered by dense forest. No wonder Felix loves it here! I'm sure Lukas will too. Surely, The Netherlands won't be dramatically different (climate aside)?!?

Oh, and it's light here until nearly 11 PM at this time of year. Definitely takes some getting used to!

Well, over the next day or two, I'll try to upload a couple photos of our first week (back) in Europe. This weekend, we're headed to the Neunkirchen am Brand "Burger Fest" and a Siemens "Family Day" in Erlangen. I'll post photos later! If you feel so inclined, please leave a comment. I certainly do have the time to read them now!!! :-)

Hello from Germany

Well, it's official. We've arrived in Europe. The flight was surprisingly good. Tobi was able to upgrade me to Business Class and managed to convince the airlines to let him fly with us, on Lufthansa (rather than on the South African Airways flight that departed at the same time,), and Lukas slept for most of the flight. For that I'm most appreciative!

But all of the stress of the move seems to have affected my immune system, resulting in me (and the baby) coming down with a yucky case of influenza. My whole body's sore, and Lukas woke up last night rubbing his eyes, and saying, "Owa, Owa". Poor little guy.

Tobi's ecstatic to be "home", though (although we don't actually have a home - we're staying with his parents), and is spending the week up in Bamberg (just 30 minutes away... how weird is that), at a departmental seminar.

The current weather in Germany is less than ideal, and although it's still summer, the temperatures and rainfall are similar to what we had in South Africa last week. At least we don't have to adjust to the climate!

Lukas is thrilled to have Oma & Opa around, and as always, they've been very helpful with him (which is nice, considering the time I've been spending in bed - as a result of this flu).

Other than that, not a whole lot new. We hope to make it to the Nuremberg Zoo this week, if the weather improves and I start to feel better. Next weekend meet up with some friends from Australia in Prague, which we're really looking forward to!

In any case, I'll be sure to keep you posted on our crazy lives.

The Last Meal (& Sunrise)

When Tobi and I were contemplating where we'd like to go for our very last dinner in South Africa, we decided on the restaurant at Botlierskop... where we always brought visitors, and where we've enjoyed so many starry, Garden Route nights. We brought our nanny, Rijanah along, both to thank her, and to have a little extra help with Lukas. It wasn't perfect. The drummers were on leave and the service wasn't as good as usual, but it was still a nice way to wrap up a year that was nothing short of amazing. And halfway through dinner, the song that probably best represents our time in Africa, began to play... Shosholoza.

In the morning we drove out to The Point, where we were hoping to get some nice photos of our last sunrise in Mossel Bay. It was overcast, but when we returned to the hotel (which is at the harbor), we realized that it had, in fact, turned into a beautiful sunrise.

Deoni met us at the George airport, and had a big bag of goodies for us. In it was a bag of Karoo olives, which she had painstakingly prepared herself, and a gift. She told me that I must wait until I was on the plane to open it, and I'm very glad that I followed her instructions. I was balling. It was one of the most thoughtful gift I've ever received.

The first item was a little book of Nelson Mandela's favorite children's stories, with a really sweet picture of Deoni's daughter, Rebecca, inside. Now, I have to admit, not only did I buy it for myself a few months back, I also received it as a gift from our friend Marchelle. But what that tells me is that I have two friends in South Africa, who know me very well, and know exactly what I like (even though it was actually meant for Lukas). Now we can have a copy at Grandma & Grandpa's house! :-)

Next to the book was a little hand-crocheted bag, with a parchment scroll attached. The scroll explained that there were several stones and shells inside, each from a different South African coast or region, and her favorite book - Nelson Mandela's Long Walk to Freedom. The book was an old paperback, which was one of the first things that she bought with her first paycheck, when they were still struggling to put food on the table.

All I could think to myself was, will I ever find another friend like Deoni? I get teary-eyed just writing about it. Not only is she such a wonderful, natural, mother, but she's one of the most compassionate people I know, and she loves her country. It's people like her that make South Africa such an incredible place. I'll miss her, our other South African friends, and the country itself, terribly.

Our Cape Peninsula Vacation - A Round Up

Chances are, you don't want to read a day-by-day account of our latest travels, so I'll quickly cover some of the highlights of our latest vacation in a few paragraphs.

The adventure started in Mossel Bay, as we journeyed up into the Klein Karoo, overnighting at a small guesthouse in the tiny town of Ladismith. We then moved onto the "Switzerland" of South Africa, passing first through the not-to-be-missed Seven Weeks Poort, before driving onto Ceres and spending a night at a wine estate in Tulbagh. From there, it was onto Franschhoek, where we stayed at the 5-Star Le Franschhoek Hotel and Spa for two nights, and dined at some incredible French restaurants, including Burgundy and the French Connection. And since no visit to South Africa's wine region is complete without a cellar tour, we popped into the Boschendal Estate (one of South Africa's oldest wine cellars) for lunch and a tour of the premises. From there, we headed over to Stellenbosch, staying the night at the well-known Spier Wine Estate, and eating at the ultra-hip and fun restaurant, Moyo. Then it was onto Hermanus, Swellendam, and Arniston, including an awesome scenic coastal drive along the R44 (where we spotted a couple of right whales!). Along the way, we spotted patches of wildflowers, making a rare early appearance due to recent heavy rains, followed by sunshine. We finished up with three nights in Cape Town, where we stayed at both the landmark Mount Nelson Hotel and the Victoria and Alfred (by far our favorite Cape Town hotel!). While in Cape Town, we finally managed to visit the ex-prison on Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela served most of his time as a political prisoner. We also visited the Two Oceans Restaurant at the Cape of Good Hope (where we took these super-cute photos), returning to the city via the one of the country's most incredible roads, the Chapman's Peak Drive.

As we left Cape Town, with Table Mountain to our backs, I had to fight back the tears... who knows when we'll see her again?

The Last Pages of Our Chapter in South Africa

Writing from a hotel, where the Internet is expensive and the "y" key sticks, isn't super-conducive to writing a detailed and eloquent account of our recent road trip through the Cape. I'll be sure to write about our travels in the next couple days, though.

For now, I'll just say that a day doesn't go by that I don't cry. As I was sobbering last night on the way home from friends, I vowed to Tobi that I wouldn't make friends in the next country we live in. ;-)

On Wednesday, as we drove away from Table Mountain for the last time, not knowing when we would see her again, I also fought back the tears.

Yesterday was our little goodbye party, and I miraculously succeeded in not crying while I was thanking everyone for the special role they've played in our lives over the past year. For dinner, we joined our friends Emil and Madeleine (and their two gorgeous daughters) for a good old-fashioned braai at their place. When the time came for us to go, of course I began sobbing uncontrollably... thank god we said goodbye at the car - where it was nice and dark! They gave us a neat CD by the talented South African band Watershed, and a couple of little presents for Lukas, with a very thoughtfully written card.

Oh, and I almost forgot! I managed to complicate our move even further by picking up a dog from the township, which had been severely neglected and was on the verge of death (meaning lots of trips to and from the vet prior to leaving, and having to decide whether the dog should be put down or not - and I, of course, said not). What was most mind boggling, was going to S.A. equivalent of the Humane Society, or SPCA, where they told me that if I left it there, they would have to put it down. They just don't have the funds to rehabilitate animals, and they get so many "healthy" dogs every day, also in need of a home.

Aside from the sick doggy (who I've incidentally named "Lucky Girl" - after Lukas, who calls himself "Lucky"), today is also going to be very difficult. We'll be saying goodbye to our nanny, Rijanah, and the hardest part is that Lukas has no clue that this is the last time he'll probably see most of these people.

And on that note, I better sign off. Still have some last minute packing to do! Tomorrow we head off to Germany. Our friend Deoni and her children will be at the airport to see us off. That will be a very sad day.

Mossel Bay / Garden Route Mothers

In case you're new in town, as I was, and are looking to set up a support network, here's the scoop...

There are a number of ways to meet new Moms in and around the Mossel Bay area. I'll list them below, in order of their helpfulness.

1) For starters, there is a group of mom's that meet regularly, and although the group is primarilly focused on breast feeding, various other topics are discussed at the gatherings. The town's pediatrician, Dr. Sandilands, can provide you with the contact details.

2) Visit Kindermusik & like programs! I prefer the town's non-Kindermusik option, Sandra, who has a music program for children in Heiderand. Check with the women in the above listed mother's group for her telephone number. Kindermusik is quite a bit more expensive, and I found it to be a bit slow-paced for my son (who wants "cuddle time" when there are so many kids and toys to play with?) Another option is "TopTots" in George (about 30 minutes' drive from Mossel Bay), just behind the Checkers' shopping center in town. I did this for a few months and absolutely loved it (as did my son), and the price is reasonable.

3) There are tons of places where you can go to relax, meet other Mom's, and let the kids play. Here are a few:
-Jimmy Jungles in Langeberg Mall (not my favorite, but Lukas liked it)
-Victoria Heights "Country Stall and Tea Garden" (on the road towards Wilderness). A great spot for parties, and kids love the donkey!
-George's Red Berry Farm (on the road going towards Blanco). Great spot for birthday parties!
-The Barnyard Donkey Sanctuary (also an excellent dog kennel!) - in George on Airport Road
-The Lumier petting-zoo and café in George, also on Airport Road (R102), but the hours are a bit strange (open to public on Wednesdays only?). They also offer a craft program for the kids.

Lastly, if you're looking for a gym/fitness studio with child care, there's a new Curves next to the Langeberg Mall, which may offer childcare, but Virgin Active in George is absolutely incredible, and offers 1st class childcare.

A couple other tips:
1) Day cares are called "creches" in South Africa, and the creches in Mossel Bay apparently leave a lot to be desired. Be extra careful when considering whether to put your child into one of these. I used a Nanny, Rijanah Isaacs, who also helped out with housework, and who I highly recommend. Maybe she's still available! Her number is: 083 439 9346. If she's not available, perhaps she can recommend someone.

2) Don't try to go into the Fynbos tea shop on Marsh St. with your kids. They'll turn you away at the door, no matter what age your child is... and that's no fun. Don't ask why. That's just the way they are. They're also bad about engagements, so don't try to plan anything there. But the gift shop is pretty nice, so go in once, have a look around, and be done with it. ;-)

If this has helped you in any way, and/or if you have any additional questions, please send me a note! All the best! ~Liz